The E4 uses the under deck brace. The E4RS has a diffenrent set up to clear a hard cased Lipo.

A brushless motor should just drop in with no problem. Are you having mesh problems? I'm using a 96T spur and 44T pinion with a Novak 13.5 and a 110T spur with a 28T pinion with a LRP 4.5 in my E4. (Internal ratio is 2.059)

hi pinkpanther

http://demonpowerproducts.co.uk/inde...a&filter_id=15

The deck brace i purchased must be for the original E4 and not The RS. I wonder where the brace on the car pictured a couple of pages back is from. I cant find anything on the KFactory website.

The Orion Vortex seems quite long as when is place it fouls on the chassis. At the front of the motor, although there is a bevel, one of the three screws fouls on the chassis restricting how you can orientate the motor. This is the same at the back of the motor where there is no bevel at all.
I have made a small bevel on the chassis around the cut out for the motor and i now have sufficient movement up/down and i can rotate the motor to some degree.
However, there is little front/rear play maybe 1-2mm and the motor sits towards the rear of the car meaning i cant install a heatsink as it will foul on the pulley.
I am now having to remove material from the side brace (where the side belt tensioner is attached) to allow more play. I haven't tried to mesh yet but I'm worried that with the motor being so restricted even with modifications that my gearing options will be more limited.

Ps, thanks for the link!

hi pinkpanther

my modification for the brushless,i have a E4 sedan
http://teammagice4.blogspot.com/2008...lantation.html

,otherwise it must be like me change these parts to transform it into E4rs:



503232
503207
503208 <------------- Upper Deck Front Stiffener Post (2)
503221
503231


olivier

What are the spring rates in the "502143 Shock Spring Set (8 pairs)"?
1.2mm to 1.xmm doesn't mean a thing to me besides the spring steel keeps getting thicker and stiffer.

John

Hey guys ran the e4 last weekend for the first time. Ran asphalt outdoor med grip, big sweeping track. I started with the kit setup and it felt soft and the backend wanted to kick out. so i put xray springs on stiffen it up a little. And added 1mm shim under the rear turnbuckle on the bulkhead to get some more traction. It somehow got crazy steering with the stiffer springs on the front. i am also running a r9 body. later guys

E4 and top speed
 

Dear Socko, AreCee, rezenclowd3 and BritishMenace

RE: <<I am new to the E4 and I can not get the required top speed out of this car.>>

Thanks for your help.

I will not know until after the coming weekend if swapping Esc and Motor will do the trick.
The same battery was used afterwards in a different car and made it to 2nd over all.
I took the belts out and all seems to run very easy without the belts.
Maybe they should put some chicane on the long straight !
I will let you know in a week’s time...

Regards

You fans of this car might be interested in some disinterested observations of this car's performance this past weekend at the Northwest Indoor Championship at Timezone 2.

Two chassis, one 13.5 rubber, and the other Mod foam, driven by a sponsored guy from out here. He squared off against a really fast and well driven X-Ray in rubber, and an X-Ray and an Associated in foam. Full fields in both, mind you, but these were the guys at the sharp end. The Team Magic took down both classes.

I was particularly interested in the 13.5 rubber because the concern with the car has been the three belts and the presumed drivetrain drag. With mod one could always say that if there is more drag it's hard to tell given the insane power laid down. Not so in 13.5. But the car was superb, and didn't put the driver at any disadvantage. It looked quick and stable edge to edge through the infield, and consistent for five minutes. And believe me, these were good racers, and they were giving no quarter throughout quals and mains.

It's a car to consider. It might be my next sedan. And it's not all uglied up with lead everywhere. Right underneath the battery seems to get it done. It has some fussy parts, but the layout is sound, and drag didn't seem to be a factor.

Todd M.
SIR

I dont care what sedan you get, you just need to get one again!!!! LMAO

Opinions on the JS edition, I really like this car layout but im on a budget and planning to run 10.5 or 19T... Where do you get parts for these cars on Internet??? What are the hop ups i'd need to keep the JS version running well??

Thanks in advance guys

You can get parts for it at wolfhobbies.com.

Todd..... Daves 13.5 car has been gone through to free up the drive train . He/his car was 1 full second faster a lap than me/mine. He is using the Kfactory belts, aluminum pullies and I was running stock pullies and belts.
Mike

The aluminum upper deck mount #503111 - E4 Alum. Upper Deck Mount
will give you a little more room than the stock plastic deck mount

That's good to know. Though the platform is actually new to you, no? You were running the Cyclone not more than a month ago. Is it possible you're still in the basic break-in period? Both the chassis and the driver. You hadn't even broken it yet, and that's just not like you :lol::lol:

Thanks for the heads-up, though. I'm actually pretty interested in the car, despite my 1/12th scale zealotry.

i've tried your tips...the BL motor can fit to motor mount but i cannot adjut the motor position to get the proper gear mesh...
and it seems team magic will not help me at all...they doesn't reply my e-mail. :flaming:

I use a Novak 13.5 and a LRP 4.5 with no problems.

Here is the example for my 21.5 I now run.

94 40 1.08 2.35 4.84 1.69 42.86
94 41 1.09 2.29 4.72 1.73 43.93
94 42 1.09 2.24 4.61 1.77 45.00
94 43 1.10 2.19 4.50 1.81 46.07
94 44 1.11 2.14 4.40 1.86 47.15
94 45 1.12 2.09 4.30 1.90 48.22
94 46 1.13 2.04 4.21 1.94 49.29

Spur is the first column
Pinion is the second column
Center of spur to center of pinion distance in inches is the third column. For this car it needs to be between 1.00 and 1.25 inches or it won't work. (this is what your are fighting!)
Spur/Pinion Ratio is the 4th.
FDR is the 5th column. (based on the 2.0588 internal ratio)
Rollout in inches is the 6th. (based on a 2.6" or 66 mm tire)
Rollout in mm is the 7th.

that's because the spur supplied with the kit is too large for most brushless applications for the higher turn motors. To get to the Novak FDRs you have to run really huge pinions and really small spurs.

and for the 17.5 specifically:

86 40 1.02 2.15 4.43 1.84 46.85
86 41 1.02 2.10 4.32 1.89 48.02
86 42 1.03 2.05 4.22 1.94 49.19
86 43 1.04 2.00 4.12 1.98 50.36
86 44 1.05 1.95 4.02 2.03 51.53
86 45 1.05 1.91 3.93 2.07 52.70
86 46 1.06 1.87 3.85 2.12 53.87
86 47 1.07 1.83 3.77 2.17 55.05
86 48 1.08 1.79 3.69 2.21 56.22
86 49 1.09 1.76 3.61 2.26 57.39
86 50 1.09 1.72 3.54 2.31 58.56
86 51 1.10 1.69 3.47 2.35 59.73
86 52 1.11 1.65 3.40 2.40 60.90

Novak recommends no lower than a 3.4 and up to 3.7.
You can get the 86 tooth spur and 52 tooth pinion from Precision Racing Systems.

Hello every one, I was just woundering if there is any one els out there running the E4 in stock ( J 540 motors)

hi
have you got a setup sheet for carpet?
rubber and 9.5t bl/5cell
thank
olivier

Vintage Trans Am, and catching up with the leaders this week!

Hi:

I believe this was already mentioned in this thread a while back but the "magic number" for pinions and spurs is 140 - 150. If the total number of teeth on your pinion and spur is in this range then there will be enough motor movement available to get a good mesh.

Team Magic is sometimes a bit slow with responses to emails (time difference and language barrier and etc.) If you have an urgent tech question please try [email protected]. We will do our best to get you an answer the same day.

Thanks

Wolf

Has anybody tried the Tekin Redline motors in their E4? Any fitment/clearance issues? thx

+1... before, during and after purchasing my E4JS from Wolf Hobbies I have always received great service, support and quick responses from Wolf :nod:

VTA Setup
 

My VTA setup is working really well in my E4JS. I did find a bump steer issue and resolved it by using the inner A-arm hole. I found that when the shock was fully compressed, the spring retainer hit the tire and limited steering (locked the front wheel actually). I'm now running 50 wt oil front and rear, pink (1.6mm ?) springs up front laid all the way in and inner shock hole on the A-arm. I'm running light green (1.2mm) springs in back, second last hole to the inside on the shock tower, outer hole on the A-arm. I am still running Associated spring retainers with the bottom lip trimmed down to fit (Thanks Marcos). Its the only way to get the ride height down to 5mm. I'm running SMC 4000 28C cells with no fitting issues. The battery doesn't have room to move. I did install the foam strips that insert into the battery hold down and the battery requires no additional shimming. I've also run the sensor wire through the loop in the belt with the Novak 21.5. My counter weights fit nicely below the center belt for near perfect balance. The only other issue I have is bearing problems in the front drive shaft. The outer gear pulls in carpet fiber and it wraps directly around the shaft and sadly right into the bearing. I've cleaned it and oiled it and its spinning free again, but the fibers actually stopped the bearing from turning during a race and now the shaft is a little scarred from burned carpet fiber. I'm going to work up a little shield to cover that area and use some Goop or Shoe Goo to hold it in place. A stock cover of some sort would be nice as I don't think this problem will go away. I clean all carpet fuzz after every run and and lube the bearings as needed. All this info should work well for anyone running a JS for any rubber tire class.

John

Liljohn1064 how does the car handle with the VTA body?

Hey john on the springs that you are using, are they the team magic? do you know what lbs they are? I am getting ready for a big race this weekend on the carpet and was just trying to see where i should start. I am gonna take one of marcos setups and figure out where to go from there. Running the new r9-r body. i will post a setup when its all said and done. Thanks guys.

+1 wolf hobbies is the bomb!!!

I run the 68 Camaro and it looks beautiful on the track. I have 94/44 gears in it at the moment. I get just the right amount of roll and no sliding at all. My tires just hit peak grip after about 8 trips to the track for racing and practices.

I'm running the TM springs, blue greens up front, 1.6 mm, light greens in the rear, 1.2 mm. They are not rated in lbs. like Associated springs. They are the the softest pair in back and the 5th stiffest spring they sell up front. Only the light blue, orange and gray are stiffer. I'm running 50 wt oil front and rear. Front shocks are on the inner hole on the arm due to a binding issue I created and leaned all the way in on top. Check your compressed steering clearance. Turn the wheels all the way right or left, then push up on the wheel to make sure you don't bind the shock to the back of the rim. I'm using associated spring cups with the bottom lip removed. I can tell you from experience, you'll get a surprise you don't want. The rear shocks are in the outer hole on the A-arm and the 3rd hole in on the tower. Front toe is 0*, rear toe is 2.5*. Front camber is -2*, rear is 1*. Ride height is 5 mm in the front, 5.5 in the back. I use Jack the Gripper for traction, I sauce 1/4 or less of the very inside of the front tires and the whole back tire. Wipe it off, let it dry 20 to 30 minutes, massage the tires and put right on the track and take one warm up lap. No burn outs.

And yes, Wolf Hobbies does rock. I get my parts in 3 days normally.

E4 springs

1.2mm =10lbs
1.3mm=13lbs
1.4mm=17lbs
1.5mm=20lbs
1.6mm=26lbs
1.7mm=31lbs
1.8mm=41lbs
1.9mm=51lbs

Thanks Marcos, This reply helps. As always your input is always extremely useful.

Here are a couple pictures of the cars for giggles.

My Son's E4JS
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...4/124_2404.jpg

My E4JS
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...4/124_2403.jpg

The twins - This was a couple months ago when they where both 17.5s. Both are now 21.5 LiPo.
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...4/121_2188.jpg

glad i could help

nice bodies, i love those cars... really nice!

anybody knows what are the news about E4 RS 2009???

rcshopping says that the 2009 E4 have some news!!

Nice photos, thanks for the info.

Very important note. To anyone using the E4JS chassis and needs it to fit a 10" wheelbase body, such as the Vintage Trans Am HPI bodies. You will need to trim 3 mm off the front of the rear a-arm and put 3 mm worth of spacers on the back to slide the whole arm forward. You will also need to move both carrier shims to the rear of the carrier to move it towards the front end. This is 3.5 mm worth of movement.

HPI body wheelbase 255 mm.
E4JS wheelbase 259 mm.

My rear wheels are perfectly centered and my fronts are ever so slightly forward in the wheel well. Hope this helps too.

Anyone have a Good Carpet 17.5/Stock Setup.
Working with a guy at my local track with the car.
Dave

Dave, I'd ignore that guy. :rolleyes:

HHHMMM,
I do have time today to make my car into T/A specs:sneaky:
Dave