Weezy you nub, thats the magic car it'll fix itself:lol:. You still owe me for the T1 parts I gave you to save your arse this last weekend:p.

Hello Dave. I'm using Janco blue, And I'm using the white can that Strictly sells. I have it stock for now. I do have Teken Hotwire software. Is there alot of upgrades for the E4?? :tire::flaming:

The beauty of a top of the line car is that it doesn't really need any upgrades to perform well. The only upgrades would be to fine tune the car such as springs, diffs, sway-bars, shock pistons and other items of that nature. The other area you may upgrade is for durability by getting the alloy pulleys and stronger belts. Other than that there really isn't any reason to upgrade.

I found that the car out of the box, with the appropriate tires and shock oil, is about 90% dialed just by setting it up as indicated in the manual. The last 10% is more or less track dependent.

If you are running stock, 17.5 then the 1.89 version would give you the timing boost you want.

Dave
I just want the Kfactory web site and notice alot opitions parts for the E4. What type of Diff do you recommed? What do you think about the FRONT ONE WAY/SLOID ALXE SET? And I have the 17.5 Teken combo.:tire::flaming:

I take back what I said earlier, I have the K-Factory front steering knuckles. With the weight of Lipos you can get lots of alloy goodies and not worry about being too fat. The 1.5 rear hubs are a good tuning tool as are the front C-Hubs in different degrees.

I have the one-way/spool which I used in 13.5 and mod on the asphalt. I swithed to the E4 front ball diff (35 tooth) for indoor carpet. I feel that a diff, especially in stock/17.5, gives better control and power in the turns where the track is tighter and more technical. The one-way is also good on a carpet track but is better if the track is more sweeping. The Track is about 50/50 so you could go either with a diff or the one-way, however, you lose front wheel braking with the one-way.

Can I buy the products direct from KFactory?:tire::flaming:

This is the exclusive distributor for Team Magic: http://www.wolfhobbies.com/ and you can buy the K-Factory from them.

You can also search for on-line stores in Hong Kong or Taiwan for K-Factory parts.

WARNING!!!!-- some of the K-Factory hop-ups are for the E4 and not the E4RS/FS so be careful if you order. Example is the center brace, it is for the original E4 that goes UNDER the top plate.

Are you going to to THR TRACK on the 20th??:tire::flaming:

I plan to. Should be there about 11:00 - 11:30.

hey guys, how do you rebuild the shocks on e4? i replace the oil in it and i can't put the cap back, i can't tightened it up. tried to losen up some oil and still won't get tight. seems like the tread wont bite. any help would be appreciated. thanks in advance.

Is the rubber bladder missing?

When I check oil I fill it. Work out the bubbles. Put the bladder back in. Slide the cap back over the top. Turn the cap in the reverse direction while pushing down until I hear the threads click against each other. Then slowly tighten the cap to make sure its not cross threading. If you cross threaded the cap, you'll need a new one. Might get an extra set of bladders and O rings while you're at it.

i'll give it a shot... thank you.

K Factory springs
 

Hey guys,
I'll be running my E4FS C1 for the first time very soon but I wanted to order one of the K Factory spring sets. Problem is that I cant find any information on which set I should get.
I suppose that each set is best for carpet vs pavement vs nitro and electric but nowhere does it suggest which is recommended for which.
Sure nitro and carpet is likely to need the stiffer set but I guess what I'm asking is, what's everybody running for the E4?

Thanks:D:D:D:D:D

Try these. I run the 1.2mms in back and the 1.6mm in front.

You just need to know what lbs rating that you are going to use...but 1st, let us know you are running it on rubber or on foam? Then outdoor or indoor carpet...? Then MOD or Stock or what motor speed....

For rubber tires, indoor carpet, stock 13.5 or 17.5 motor...I use 14lbs rear and 16 fronts (AE, Xray, Schumacher...your choice). Usually I just need the front 1 step harder then the rear or sometimes both the same and let the setup of the car to balance the whole thing.

Mine is a little stiffer up front than most. I tried it softer, but the car liked to roll too much in the corners.

Guys,

Firts of all outstanding thread with great info...I pretty much decided to get a TM EJ to run in Trans Am class...and play with.

I am military and don't get to race too often that is why I chose it over the "better ones"...is this a mistake?

As far as gearing (my biggest concern) I appreciate all the thread ideas for spurs/pinions but what brand are you using? I know I will have to get a small spur and large pinion...but what exact brand (part #'s?)...that way I can order the pinion/spurs when I order the car. I will be running 21.5 TA

I have TRF shocks...plan on using them...just like em' Thanks for all the info.

http://www.robinsonracing.com
http://www.precisionracingsystems.com

Either of these companies are very good, just find the desired spur or pinion and order therm from there, personally I ordered one of each from 84 up to 120 in the spurs, and then from 13 up to 51 in pinions.

OK and both brands fit no problem? 48 and 64pp?

Paul

My concern is the ROOM that you can slide your motor forward and backward on the E4 series...that is one of the bad design they did. Especially on brushless motor, E4 is design based on brushed motor, not brushless...if you are using FLAT EDGE endbell brushless motor like Speed Passion or Trinity...you might have problem sliding the motor forward and backward, that also related to your choice of pinion/spur...On my E4RS, it is a PAIN to use some specific brushless motor...horrible design (but I understand this car was based on some old brushed motor concept)

Drop your motor in and see how far you can move around...then decide on your final drive via the 4.2 FDR rule on USVTA then choose your spur then your pinion.

Sorry guys,
I should have clarified.
I am considering one of the K Factory spring sets, the ones with 10 sets. The problem is that they are not numbered by mm or lbs. They just simply have numbers like #31,32,33, and so on.

I will most likely be running rubber on pavement in 17.5,13.5 and 10.5 brushless classes on lipo at ROAR minimum weight. I was hoping that one of the box sets will cover the most common scenarios for this setup. Probably my question should be, does anyone know how I can find what the conversion would be?

I have the E4 C1 and I can tell you that if you are running a LiPo 5000 you are going to need about 6 oz. of lead to make weight. What I did was purchase a 6 cell NiMh Orion 5300 and fully loaded and ready to race is 1530 grams. I love this car . Its so smooth and quiet. I would have thought it would be a bit niosy . the only issue I have so far is that I need a metal Pro diff in the rear for the sticky carpet we race on here. Ok and the hub carriers have a lot of bearing slop in them too. But this car is trick. By far the best sway bar set up ever on any r/c .

As far as I can tell the 20 ia about 12 pounds. every sucessive number represents a apoximately a one pound increment. Currently I have 26/22 f/r
but im still playin with all that as I have only driven it 4 times so far. Wheres my steel LiPo tray anyways ?

haha...thx chris..now i know where he got the parts to beat me..lol..just kidding..

64 Pitch:

I run a 94/46 for 4.2 up to a 94/40 for a 4.8. I run PRS gears. They fit perfectly.

Thanks guys...like I said appreciate all the info.

Steel Lipo tray?
I've got one on my car if that's what you mean...:p:p:p
It's a nice piece but I had to blast the crappy paint off of it and powdercoat it with satin black. Looks sweet now!!

So then, regarding the springs, you would suggest the #31-#40 kit?

Well.. I race carpet and its usually pretty sticky.
Personally I own the #21-#30 kit. It is a very nice set of springs indeed!:nod:

I may run on carpet from time to time. The TC is actually what I'd run for fun since my main focus during the on season is 1/8 on road.
Do you think there may be a reason to get the #31-#40 kit or should the #21-#30 kit cover most conditions?


Thanks

the softer springs are the choice for rubber tires . 21-30. :tire:

So are the K Factory springs better than the TM springs? I run outdoor asphalt rubber tyre. Currently racing 17.5 stock and soon 10.5 super stock. Which K Factory set would be the pick 21-30?

Cheers
Aaron

The TM springs are much less expensive and work just fine.

Does TM have a spring kit or do you need to purchase them individually?
So how much for one pair of springs times 10?

Wait, don't answer that, I'll find out for myself.:D

The TM kit is 26.99, PN 502143. The springs sets are 4.55 each, PNs 502135 to 502142.

I think I payed about $40 for the set of 10 pairs ..
Thats $0.55 cheaper per unit AND i got a nice carying case. With labels!:eek:

Well, it looks like getting either kit will be a much better deal than buying separately.
about $40 for the 10 pair K Factory kit and $27 for the 8 pair TM kit.

@ $4.55 per pair that's $36.40 for the set of 8 TM springs before shipping!

And for a set of 10 KF's it's still cheaper than the TM's individually.

Thanks guys, I know what I have to do...Go back to 1/8th scale!:lol:
I'm kidding...

Hey guys,
I run my car without the middle support in the rubber tire class to give the chassis a bit more flex.
This posed a problem for mounting the antenna so I fabricated this mount.
I think it turned out really well.
I have one extra and if enough people want to give this mounting bracket a try I will make more. I need a minimum of 10 pieces to make it worth the time.
They will cost $10 each and perhaps $15 each with the antenna tube clamp. If I can find more of them...
They are CNC machined aluminum and very lightweight.
What do you guys think?

No rear sway bar ? Hmm..

Jeeeez John, you don't miss much!

Actually when I got the car (used) it was missing quite a few things.
I need to get the links and a set of bars for the carpet for sure but it seems to work pretty good on marginal pavement, so I'm told.
Other than that, how does it look?:D

Oh yeah, you didn't mention the fact that my receiver has no case. A story for another time...

The part you made is friggin sweet !
Car looks good too. You may want to concider a low profile servo. And jusr a straight piece of .093, .078 and .062 piano wire and you are all set . Kline has 2 different 3 packs of sway bars not too pricy and you can always use a generic link. You will thank me next time you run carpet . :tire: