Howard,
I'm hoping to get out to run this weekend either at the T/A series race @ Michiana R/C or at JTEC.

AreCee,
Probably. As for tires, double pink or magenta depending on which brand you run will work. The traction never gets super high so you won't need hard tires. I'll have to get back to you on the tire width, my foam car isn't finished yet so I can't say for sure if 30s will clear. With the springs, use the TC5 perches like Marcos has suggested, almost any springs fit with those on the shocks.

JonnySocko, I think we may know each other but that's beside the point.

One more question, what would you suggest to use in the front on Jtec's carpet; one-way, solid one-way, spool or diff? It's been a very long time since I ran a TC on carpet, the last one was a TC3.

On my E4 FS with KFactory aluminum steering blocks 30mm foams will fit if you use Tamiya wheel spacers. They rub on the front steering block. The wheel needs to be shimmed out 1mm

We used to use the 30s in the rear only and 26 up front but that was many years ago.

Why would you guys talking about 30mm and 26mm foams..? Please don't tell me you guys are using NITRO FOAMS for the indoor carpet foams...

Indoor carpet foams are all 28mm...wide, unless you want to trim them narrower...bare foams are 60mm diameter and you should start running them like 59ish mm and deal with the roll out...front tire foams are usually made in 2 different compound, harder on the edge and softer to the rest. At least that was the foams I was using last year...(long time no foams..)

Also, running foams for indoor carpet....only thing you want to use is FRONT DIFF. Oil should be thicker, and springs should be harder...and usually the shocks stand up pretty straight...

Dave....in order for you to use the regular TC spring, you MUST use the TC5 spring retainer piece (the lower plate thingy at the bottom of the spring)...otherwise, your E4 limited will be very limited because you will have 8mm ride height no matter how you dial it.

BTW....where is Jtec?

Also, you and Sockco were last raced at "THE TRACK" Trans-Am National and you were sitting like 10 feet behind Sockco...

Socko....good luck at the TA Race...I will be at Florida visiting Schumacher USA and Micky Mouse....also checking out their new indoor testing track @ Schumacher (if I am lucky enough...)

Howard, you are correct that the last time I used foams was on my nitro cars. Come to think of it I only used rubber for indoors.

Jtec is a track in Danville IL and they use foams with 10.5 BL. I figure that I'll go there a few times this winter since I live 80 miles away.

AreCee,

I checked last night. Carpet foam tires (28mm like Howard said) do fit but they're really close. Also, front diff only for foam, slightly heavier setup for shocks but don't go crazy, you still want the car to roll a little.

The stock shock shafts are too long, same as the G4. Cut half the threads off the bottom and ride height will get easier to set. It will lower the piston in the shock body as well and keep it off the bladder when the shock is compressed. I had the same problem with my G4 and shortening the shafts helped not only with ride height but also with handling. Otherwise, the car will feel like it's riding on the bumpstops with the long shock shafts.

I'm sure I'll recognize you when I see you. I ran the Firebird at the VTA nats.

Howard,

As for 30mm tires, well.... :sneaky:
Have fun in Florida.

Be careful with wheel spacers. It makes it much easier to strip the hex out of the wheel since the hub has less surface in contact with the wheel.

Hi everyone!
I've been racing the whole season with the e4 on asphalt, 5cell rubber modified, with some succes. Next month I will attend the first indoor carpet race with the car and, since I'll have almost no time for practicing, I was wondering about a basic carpet set-up to start with. Control tyre will be sweep36 (!).
Any suggestion?

Thanks
David

Hey guys just planning ahead here.

I'm looking for a 17.5 set up for rubber on carpet. and info would great.

I"m in no hurry as I race 12 scale right now but going to a couple carpet races in the coming months.

I'm also looking a place that I can order parts from. would order from "wolf" but since they never got back to my emails on parts that were missing, and wrong part in my kits( took part from my 415), after my intial order. any info would be great

Thanks

you can safely start with your standard outdoor set up

Hi,
Read your note. Not to worry. Try here .....

www.rcmanufactory.com

They have everything you'll need and some ...... lol
Their service is great. Thats the reason I use them ! :sneaky:;):blush:

Best of luck at the carpet races comming up .... I guess it'll be slightly slower then your 12th scale :nod:
Try using a spool up front :sneaky: Seams to help ...

British Menace

I'll do so.

Thanks, Marcos.

all righty lets see where we start... Just got the car yesterday and started the build. i was impressed with the packaging and everything went together really easy. I was impressed. No problems until i came to the shocks dont know if 3 in the morning was the problem or working on the car for so long, but the shock caps felt like they were trying to cross thread??? anyone have this problem?

i am switching to this car from a tc5 so i have some setup tips.
1. i know its 3 belts and the drivetrain is tight, on my tc5 i cut out every other tooth and it freed it up alot? will this cause it to skip on a 17.5 10.5 situation with the aluminum pulleys?
2. how can i measure droop in the rear i usually measure under the hub? Am i gonn ahave to measure over ride height now?

Anyways car was easy to build and put together let you guys know tommorrow on how it does on the track. later guys thx for the help

For those of you who own an E4..

I just got my E4FS. I find that there is some play on the front and rear diff (Diffs are in the car and moves left and right). Is this normal? :weird:

Thanks.

Of course not normal........ loose the screw of side plates and bulkhead, re-tighten the screw carefully and it would be fine.

Thank you.. I will give that a try. :nod:

I tried reassemble the front and rear bulkhead but there was still left and right movement on the diffs. Ended up, I've used shim to stop the play. Anyone one who also used shim on the diffs?

Is that right, I never have this problem.

I thought you may have to unassemble the diff. to check, also check the bearings too.

Did you car crashed before?

Shimming your diffs is not unusual. I've had to shim the diffs in every car I've ever built.

The stock belts are tight. The KFactory ones free up the car a lot and don't require you to cut the teeth.

I just purchased this kit. It was like this out of the box. Do you recommend unassemble this kit and put it together again?

Did you shim the diffs on your E4?

I have E4, E4RS, E4FS, E4JS in home and I don't have any problem as you mentioned.

Yes, you may disassemble the diff. and take a look whether the assembling was correct.

:) :)

guys, i just bought E4 JS..handling is good..so agressive in turning..but i had a problem when i want to install my brushless motor or install a silver can motor...is there any hop up from TM or KF so my BL motor can fit to My E4JS??? thanks.

Some BL motors didn' fit into the car because the motor can is too long. I am using Novak and Orion BL motor and have no problem. However, I have told TM to improve this problem. I believe they will have option later. :nod:

I have a Trinity Duo 17.5BL motor from eXpress motorsports in my E4JS... :nod:

Yes. You want just a tick of side play so the bearings don't bind up. Out of the box they're too loose in the bulkheads. Manufacturing tolerances will always create a little slop in any part to part fit. That why we have shims to begin with. There's nothing wrong with your kit. I'd be more worried if you didn't have some play between the bulkheads. One good hit could move the bulkhead and bind the diff up. You wouldn't know until the run was over and you burned up a perfectly good bearing. :eek:

Thank you guys for all the info. :)

i'm using Noval motor BL...maybe i'll wait for the hop up from TM..
thanks a lot guys..

I'm running Novak SS17.5s in both of mine for VTA.

What I did:
1. Take off the chassis stiffening brace.
2. Pull the sensor wire through the belt.
3. Install the motor. I had to massage it in due to the motor shaft, but it works.
4. Put the brace back on.
5. Tie wrap the sensor wires to the motor wires leaving enough loop to not rub the belts. It works nice, doesn't pinch any wires and the belts never touch the sensor wire.

This leaves me with about an 1/8" gap from the endbell to the chassis.

what TM spring you used for the asphalt and carpet? whys a e4 sedan/rubber tire

thank olivier

E4FS C1
 

Hello all,
I recently acquired a TM E4FS with the optional front aluminum oneway/spool and the pulleys do not line up. They are misaligned by about 2 or 3mm.
The front pulley is very close to the bulkhead but does not rub. Is this common or do I have a mismatch of parts?

I really would like to use the oneway but it's binding the front belt.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

okay...i'll try your tips today...thanks for your response...

E4 and top speed
 

Dear all

I am new to the E4 and I can not get the required top speed out of this car. Tried all the different gearing but it remains the slowest car on the long straight by a lot.
I have also another car with the same motor (LRP 17.5) that is MUCH faster.
The E4 is much nicer car to drive but…

What is your experience? Any tips?

Regards

Exact same motor? Same ESC? How tight do you have the belt tension set? Stock belts or KFactory?

Different ESCs will make a difference (fixed timing versus dynamic timing, Novak/LRP)

Different motors even of same type will be different if one has a weak rotor.

The KFactory belts are much better and free up the car a lot.

Socko

E4 and top speed
 

Dear Socko

Yes, same motor and ESC.
So, I guess this is not normal then.
The belts are the normal ones and I run them fairly loose.
The difference in lap times is 1.5s (23s versus 21.5s).
I am at a total loss...
I will swap the motors and ESC and try again.

Thanks and regards

Have you checked how free it rolls without the gears meshed?

You may have something binding like a bad bearing, a tire/wheel rubbing an arm or ball cup, tight belts, or even a diff dust cover rubbing on the chassis.

And what's up with this "required" speed, does your track have a minimum top speed ?

It might be your batteries as well...

This is what I was going to suggest too.....

Maybe some binding somewhere. Take the motor out and if the car is clean. Push the car along, turn the wheels by hand too.....is there any binding or are they free.
Then, even if you feel the wheels spin free and there is no binding, take the centre (ie: the side belt) off and turn the front then the rear wheels in turn, seperately.
Do they feel the same? Any binding?
Now take the wheels off and check again. Any difference?

Binding on the car can be really noticeable when running the car and less noticeable when in your hands testing?!

Good luck. There must be something cause the transmission on this car is very free and easy.

British Menace

Hey guys. I've just picked up a new E4RS and just have a few questions...

I'm having a hard time fitting my Orion Vortex 6.5 into the car. I know i have to remove the side brace etc. but when i get it in I'm not left with much movement meaning getting a good mesh and having a few different options with the gearing is going to be a problem.

On the subject of gearing, this is the first time i will be running a brushless/lipo setup. Where is a good place to start with the gearing?

Also, a few pages back there is a pic with a kfactory(?) center brace that goes over the top deck allowing a lipo. I've bought one thinking i was getting that but the one i have received goes under the top deck, so i cant fit a lipo with it. Where can i find the one pictured on the car a few pages back?

Anyone from the UK know a good website/store for parts?