:lol:

Ok thanks for the tip Marcos. I'll have a look into that.

The JS at $199 is a real bargain at the moment !!

Just need to find someone with the Speedpassion and SP13.5 motor now :rolleyes:

Thanks again.

British Menace

Like THESE!

If you drive as SLOW as Marcos.J or some newbie...I would say the JS is good enough for you. But I have seen you drive before...if you are getting the JS for some serious carpet racing with 13.5, you are actually throwing that $200 to water and eventually you will ended up buying a better version without 6 months.

13.5 is probably the new 19T class...running some entry level tub car just won't cut it. You will ended up buying a little bit upgrade here and there just because you just can't get as fast as someone's Mi3.5, Phi T2 2008 at your track....I can garantee you this, you will find plenty of those $400 plus chassis at the 13.5 class. Hardly you will see someone running a $200 car and be winning in this class...

17.5 is sportman, I will leave it to the sportman ppl...

BM, you need to think about the E4RS, or the Schumacher Mi3.5...:sneaky: FYI...indoor carpet racing is totally different then Leisure hour raceway or 1/8th raceway...every INCHES on the track count and there are no 2-speed and 353 tuned to help you.

About the speedo, lipo and motor, no other choice - SPEED PASSION and CORE all the way. :D

Thanks Solara,

Good info'.
I wasn't going to bother with electric at all cause there isn't a track in 3 hrs drive of here :-(

But since there's going to be a track just 2 -3 miles opening up this weekend........... and a good one at that. I've thought again.

Be nice to put Team Magic and the E4 , not to mention RCManufactory on the map over here eh Solara?

Talk soon and thanks again

British Menace

Madison is only 2 hours and 44 minutes away (according to mapquest) :)

Will a lipo pack with wire connectors from the center able to fit into E4? Would the connectors interfere with the upper deck? Eg Maxamps, SMC etc

I only remember seeing E4 fitted with lipos with internal connectors such as Orions

Yes. Thats about the closest. From the house it's 3 hrs. But thanks for the heads-up.

Anything over 30 mins away and might aswell not bother as it costs. I just needed a local track to practice/ race and keep my eye in for Nitro.

I don't want to be spending lots of money on getting to tracks like I have to when we race Nitro during the summer.

I'll be running probably brushed 19 turn motor and 3200 batteries. Just cause thats what I've got.

Still need to get a car first though ....... lol

British Menace

the CORE RC 5000 is also a perfect fit:)
http://www.deadzoom.com/member/terri...naugust036.jpg

OK, I'm tired of ordering parts blindly and forgetting that I do have basic math skills. What I don't have available are pinion and spur radii.

I'd like to get my gearing right the first time, but that's not happening. Too late! I found the 78 and 81 tooth spurs I ordered along with the matching pinions fit my ratios, but I didn't take into account the diameter change. Now I have all the ratios I need for my Novak 17.5 brushless and a nice gap of about 3/16" between my pinion and spur. Almost funny. Before I order again, I need to find the radii of the 64 pitch spurs and gears. I will need to go much larger with my pinions.

What I need are a Spur and pinion that match my starting ratio Spur to pinion ratio of 1.65:1. The measurement with the motor centered in the mount is roughly 1 1/8" center of the Spur mount to the center of the motor shaft. If I find both of those, I get Novak's suggested 3.4 FDR for my pair of JSs.

I'll even make it easy, sort of. These are the spur and pinion pairings that get me very near 3.4 FDR. Which one is closest to my number of 1 1/8 inches center to center?

102/62
101/61
99/60
98/59
96/58

I may have answered my own question. Someone tell if what I found is right or wrong please?

Diameter = D, P = Pitch, N = Number of teeth.

D = N/P

Radius = D/2

I calculated the radius of the Spur, the radius of the pinion and added them together. I have about .125 inches of play either way by sliding the motor in its mount, so my final number just needs to end up between 1 and 1.25 inches.

My starting point should be a 90 tooth spur and 53 tooth pinion.

well for 48 pitch i need to keep the teeth total count(pinion and spur) to 105 teeth to have a perfect mesh. for 64pitch im guessing around 137 to 140 total teeth count. 88/50 will get you very close to it around a 3.6 , 88/52 should get you in the 3.48 range

Excellent. I like your shortcut method for total tooth count and the spacing. I should get a real nice mesh with the pinion choices for the 88 or 93 Robinson spurs. I'll have to source out the pinions. The place I would like to order from locally is out of 51 to 60 (not that I need them all, they are just out) tooth right now and the LHS doesn't carry PRS.

So close to having these JSs ready! Its painful being on the bleeding edge and not having parts NOW!

We LOVE having Marcos on board. Not only a great driver but also a truly great mind. We have been getting a lot of emails about workable gear ratios and have been doing a lot of testing. We came up with the total tooth count phenomenon back in July but couldn't post it because I hadn't checked out every combo. We can't post unless we have tested every possible combo. (We do our best but with all the traveling we have been doing it is hard to do project like this). For 64 pitch we have found that the "magic number" of teeth is in the 145 to 155 range. I was skeptical at first because it seemed to be too good to be true but it has worked out for us every time. We have also given this to a few others to try but haven't gotten word from them.

Please let us know if you encounter a problem with this so we can inform people that we (I) were wrong.

It's nice to know that someone LOVES Marco's:lol::lol:

thanks:D

You've done a great job Marcos. Both with the car and posting on here.

It's good to have people like you around the forum. It makes informative aswell as enjoyable.

On behalve of alot of people, thanks for all the work you've put in Marcos. It is much appreciated!!

British Menace

my pleasure:nod:

I like him as well.:D

like is a long way from love...:ha::ha::ha:

Hi Marcos

Did that Core 5000 pack fit with no shims under the top deck?

I currently use SMC 4000 packs.

Cheers
Aaron

it fit just fine , no shims at all

Battery tray for lipos?
 

OK I bit the bullet brought my lipos and new ESC and 10.5T.

Got the lipos to fit my E4 with minor modification, I now have the problem of making up the lost weight. My car must weight 1500g, so i need to make up about 200g.

I can(and probably will have to) use some stick on weight, BUT i like to keep the weight as low as possible and I reckon a different battery plate would be a good place to start.

Does anyway now if I can but a replacement one that is a lot heavier, without all the holes, slots etc and maybe made from a heavier material?

Any advise or links most gratefully received.

The pictures posted on this site dont seem to have any weights on your cars, dont you have weight limlits?

Many thanks
Anthony
Watford UK.

ugm:D

This specific E4RS made the 1535 Indoor carpet rubber national weight (with everything including body)....it has 4 venting fans, novak GTB w/orion 13.5, and Orion 3800 with 2 weighs on the side. It used the low prof 9551 as well.

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...S/IMG_0488.jpg

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...S/IMG_0483.jpg

I want to thank Wolf and Wolf Hobbies for having come aboard. As soon as I get some laps on this car I will be on here to help answer questions .

WHAAATTTT?????!!!!!! Congrats buddy!

-Korey

Thanks . How's school going up there in Bham?

Great, just finished all my midterms and did pretty solid on them. I dont have class thursdays, so thats my track day :D Gonna go run my buggy for a bit.

-Korey

I just picked up an E4 at the iHobby show last Saturday. Finished the build in almost no time, this shows good quality that everything fit as it should. I had to modify a few parts to fit a hard case 3800 Lipo but now it sits in there like it was meant to be there. I'm very comfortable with the three belt from nitro touring cars (they rolled almost friction free after the belts broke in and T-boning was never an issue).

Question I have relates to the springs, does anyone know what the spring rate is like compared to AE springs?

Also does anyone know if a front diff is available?

I'm not sure about the spring rates. Yes front diffs are available the part number just depends on which car you have if you have 34 tooth pulley part # is 503903 or 503904 35 tooth pulley

E4 springs

1.2mm =10lbs
1.3mm=13lbs
1.4mm=17lbs
1.5mm=20lbs
1.6mm=26lbs
1.7mm=31lbs
1.8mm=41lbs
1.9mm=51lbs

you can run any AE spring just use the bottom shock collar for the tc5 so you can get the correct ride height.
http://www.deadzoom.com/member/terri...naugust049.jpg

Thanks for the answers. Looks like I'll order the diff and springs. It's also good to know that I can use the AE springs I have.

E4RS and E4 differences?
 

I have a E4 and was thinking about buying the E4RS

Can anyone tell me the main differences between the two?

Are the parts from the E4 useable on the RS, (i have a lot of spare E4 wishbones, belts, driveshafts etc..)

Any idea what parts, if any, can not be used? (Ill need to buy those spares)



And lastly, I am still trying to find anyone or anywhere that have made a heavy, solid battery tray for lipos?


Sorry for all the questions, its difficult to get information locally as the E4 is not used by that many people in the UK as the parts are hard to get here.

Anthony
Watford, UK.

K Factory Shocks?
 

Forgot to ask are the K factory shocks a good replacement for the standard E4 ones?

Ie are they easier to build than the standard ones, I always find the thread on the shock top to fine and easy to cross thread.

Thanks Anthony.

what are the parts consistent (compatible) with the E4 SEDAN AND RS E4?

thank
olivier

hello, to balance the chassis using one lipo of 3800 or 4000, how many grams have you ballast the chassis and in which side?, thanks.

Try in the middle of the chassis over the battery for the best balance.

Hey, anyone have any gearing info for a 13.5 and a 5.5 turn motor?

Also, i run on a high grip asphalt and carpet track, running only rubber? hows setup out of the box?

Also, i cant seem to find a manual to download, i only found one, but it was very brieif, and didn't really show much on how to put it together? Hows the manual that comes with the car?

tim,

I just raced my E4 for the first time yesterday and the out of box setup was very good, a bit soft but very controlable. I didn't have any springs to tune with and the air temperature was dropping fast, from 60F to 40F. I had Sorex 24R with Tamiya soft inserts and it ran well. CS27s worked well when it was warmer. Camber was -1/-2 F/R, r.toe 2.5, f.toe 0, ride height 5.5f/6r, 30wt oil all around, 0 droop.

Gearing: I use a 4.5 FDR with the 13.5 (96 spur/44 pinion). For the 5.5 I would start at around a 7 FDR and gear up from there.

The manual uses CAD drawings and the steps are numbered for execution. There are no set up tips, hints or suggestions. I found that this was one of the easiest cars I ever built, everything fit pefectly (with the exception of too much thread lock on a couple set screws).