Ok...

Is anyone else having problems with breaking suspension arms??

I am breaking them extremely regularly... and it doesn't seem to take much of an impact, nudge or bump to do it... I am racing on a temporary car park type track so occasionally running over corner markers or brushing bits of the track barriers is par for the course... but of all the different brands running on the track the E4 seems to be the most fragile and cannot withstand any sort of impact... even hitting a bump at high speed seems enough to break the arms

I've also noticed that the arms seem very flexible... so much so that setting droop can be affected by the flexing

new of kfactory for E4

yes the suspencion arm are a little fragile , i think if they made them with out the aluminum brace they will have a little more flex and they wouldnt break as much. You can mod the front arms to use the HPI Pro 4 arms but it will reguire 44 to 45mm cvd dogbones, I did this a while back but never ran it on a race:)

Anyone running this car with foams on carpet? If so, are there any issues with the rims rubbing on any of the suspension components?

JayBee had a foam spec he might know for sure!

Every TC's front arm are the same....I don't think TM's material is any softer then others...however, one solution is using the HARD FOAM type bumper.
I know for sure there are no hard foam bumpers from TM or any aftermarket mfr...so, try to spot a P-dub or Parma hard foam bumper and modify it to fit the E4. I have several laying around and just need to wait untill I've got the RS then I can start mounting the bumper.

Sorry to be blunt... but ... how many touring cars have you had:confused:...

Pick up a Tamiya 415M?? arm and try bending it... then do the same with a E4 arm and you'll very quickly see that they are not all the same

I've raced a 415 it is various forms since it was released as an MS and that would be something like 3 or 4 years, and in that time I've broken maybe 3 arms in total... I've broken that many in 2 weeks with the E4...

Hmmmm, OK...sounds like you know better.

You are right, the Tamiya arms are very strong. Possibly the best there is in the business!!

Solara was also right in that "most" all TC arms are the same. There maybe, and are as you have pointed out, some that are different, but on the whole there's not much between them all.

One thing you should think about ShadowAu. No one has really answered your original question................. :weird:

Perhaps your one of the few who have had problems with arms breaking.:sneaky:

Regards,
British Menace

Not sure if thats a good thing or a bad thing :sneaky:

I went for ages before I broke anything (bought the car October of 2007)... even the drive shafts seemed to be lasting very well.. but since I broke that first one its like a dam has burst :weird: and now I throw $40-$50 worth of parts at it per race meeting... and to make matters worse most of the time I don't even get to finish a whole race day before I run out!

(arms are about $20 a set here... drive shafts around $50 a pair)

Arms are only about US$7 from rc mushroom - a good source of spares if you're running the original E4.

My car has only done 2 meetings, but I had 3 absolutely huge crashes the last time I raced it - and no damage at all :cool:

I know what you mean - I had the same problem with my Evo 5 - took forever to strip the front diff gear, but after the first one, I did another 3 in about 10 runs :cry:

http://youtube.com/watch?v=l2Zb7h_f7X4

E4 in Europe

Yeah I get some of my stuff there but also try supporting the local guys... tend to split it 50/50... depends if I have lots to order...

A $7 part and then $10 freight ($US) doesn't make sense if the local shop can do it for $20 :lol:

True, but $24 for two sets is better, $31 for three is a good deal!

But good job on supporting the local shops and stores, comes at a price though. People here want to make money at the hobby/sport instead of just 'getting by'. And who can blame them. Others in the far east ARE happy with getting by.
Not only that, but your money still buys you a good deal of stuff across there?!

I think its also a mental thing on the car and breaking parts......... when you first get the car, your spending time getting used to it, not thinking of really going fast, or of parts breaking.
After a while, you start to really push and your thorghts start to go towards what will happen 'when' you crash, not if. Then if/ when you do break something, your thinking "..........is it a week part of the car? Will it break again when I crash"
What happens is your thinking about the broken part, and low and behold, you crash and break again.
Coincidence?? Funny how others have the same story.

Sorry for the long story all.

Regards,
British Menace

I had to shim the rear 1.5mm and the front 1mm when running the Jaco prisms.


I haven't broke a single arm running on the rug. I use the p-dup bumper for the cyclone, fits without any modifications.

Nice....P-dub bumper for Cyclone. Need to pick one up cause I don't quite like to punch holes on these hard foam bumper...
I have these hard foam bumper on all of the TC that I have own...and I made a big mistake by stocking a boat load of Mi3 front arms...with this bumper, I think I have replaced 1 pair of front arm just because the bottom of the arm was scratched by running outdoor....

I still don't believe the E4 arm is a weak arm, I use softer front arm for the FLEX reason when running outdoor, it is NOT about the material, it is all about engineering. And with the "RIGHT" options, it will reduce the chances to bring the front arm. Of course, nothing can survive if the driver barely know how to drives.

And yes, my Tamiya TA05R arms are plenty strong...I have 3 pairs of them NIB since 2006. But again, I have the P-dub bumper on the R as well.

BTW....where can I find a TRUE foam spec E4FS? I have 2 E4RS right now and "thinking" to convert 1 to true FS and run some foammie. However, adding those parts up with the price tag...I might as well BUY a FS...any idea?

Doesn't Wolf Hobbies have an FS? I thorght they did all the E4's?

British Menace

Well....our local shop ordered from them....ended up it is the FS chassis, but with the rubber arm.....rubber spec pulleys, dual link steering, kinda like...1/2 and 1/2.

Wolf Hobbies made up different kits for different racers but if a person wanted a straight up regular FS kit, then just send an email with the order saying that. They currently are showing stock FS kits in stock.

Steve

Who is the person to get in contact with to possibly get the E4 reviewed by RCCA Magazine?? Please send me a PM...thanks! :D

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...r_redesign.jpg

Joel PM sent to you.

Steve

Team Magic Model Industrial Co. Ltd.
No. 185-2, 38th Road, Taichung Industrial Park, Taichung, Taiwan 407
Tel: 886-4-23552606
Fax: 886-4-23552946
E-mail: [email protected]
Website: www.teammagic.com.tw

Hey guys, anybody looking for another E4 or looking to buy one? Things are changing on my end and I'm not going to be running sedan much, if at all. I'm selling mine. If you'd like then check it out. :D

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=216777

It's a great car, just won't be needing it.

No doubt; but I got bam-boozled (sponsored) by Schumacher before I had a chance to run the car on carpet. Not even 1 one with the car before I had to sell it. Oh well....I love my Schuie on carpet; wish I could be more help:)

lol

Hi,

I have bought the same packs and I just tried putting them in for the first time and found it to be a monumental feat. Once the pack was in I noticed Im going to have to mount my speedy further out from the centre than Id like, or mount it forward and have my reciever on the air dam,

Is there a trick to getting these packs in and out with more ease, or is it just a case of struggle and strain.

I am not really comfortable with the fact I had to force the leads through as well, Im suspecting there will be damage eventually.

Any help would be good or the recommendation of suitable lipo's that fit more easilly without having to raise the top deck. The batteries must be HARDCASED to be legal in some of our events.

Cheers
Aaron

zacabrandy, be patient on getting the hang on putting these packs in the E4FS.

I have the leads coming out where the air dam is located. Whene I mount the pack I pass the leads first then I install the pack in place.

As for the SMC5000 pack I would not even think of trying it.

My Orion Platinum 4800 lipo is too thick and I would need to add 2 or 3mm of shims.

Hope this helps.

http://www.teammagic-europe.com

hi luis

mail team magic europe for a futur driver Contract

Mine is the same, but I find if I sit the pack in by itself I can get it in no dramas but then I cannot get the battery tray in underneath. There isn't enough room to get passed the end of the battery where the tray mounts in the top of the chassis. If I try it whilst it's in the tray I have to really push to squeeze the leads and balance lead through.

Have you modified your tray or something? Because I hope Im just doing something wrong but I have tried everything and it's basically a F$%^king pain in the arse.

Cheers
Aaron

Yes it a pain in the A?%?%% ! Once the pack is sitted in place, i really have to push on the battery tray and slide it in place. I did no modifications.

Sometimes I can fit the pack in there really fast and other times i cannot get the hang of it.

I'm going to run my qualifications and mains on the one pack without having to remove it.

How long can you run, race speed, with this 4000mAh pack? Do you see any drop off in performance?

Do you think the pack will last a 30 mins final?

Thanks.

British Menace

30 minutes main? For real? Even on stock brushless...I think it can run for 10 hard racing with a 4800/5000 mah...30 mins are way too long (I think).

Just kidding on the 30 mins final...... :sneaky:

Just wondering really how long a 4000mAh battery would last.

I remember an old 3000mAh battery pack (NiMH) would last 5 mins no problem.

Do you think the pack would last 15 mins? Do you guys run any sort of regulator on the Li-Po packs?

British Menace

Did not try the pack at the track yet. Still waiting for the friggin snow to melt and season to begin in may here in Montreal, Canada !

My guess on a 10.5 BL motor would me 12 minutes max with the 4000 mah SMC pack.

I tried the set up this weekend and it worked pretty well,The changes to the rear of the car were very good,But the frontend changes mad the car way lazy.so i made some a couple of of small adjustments from the (Luis) setup and got the car faster with a spool then a 1 way.Thank you Luis for the setup.I will post a new setup sheet in a couple of days of the changes.Thanks Doug Lemmons

for carpet or outdoor?

Yeah, kinda thought you are joking about that 30 minutes main...but if there are such LIPO can do that...I think I can quit NITRO for good.

Anyhow, I used CORE 5000...Speed Passion speedo with Novak 13.5 on Schumacher Mi3...ran back to back two 5 minutes qualifier (forgot to charge the other lipo-4800 so I have to take my chance) and I am sure in between those run I have like 2 or so minutes of practice...completed both round without any power drop. I did not charge the pack after to check the mah left but I've charged the pack immediately for the 3rd round and the main.

Anyhow, 12 minutes is a garantee for brushless 13.5 with juice left. Probably 10 minutes for 10.5 and 7 or so for 3.5 4.5 motors...

I don't use any cutoff thing or regulator.....is there a voltage regulator for EP use..? I thought regulator is the voltage reduce devise designed for receiver packs GP cars use.

Use the Smart-stop module from Novak:

"Now users of all models and brands of ESCs can appreciate and enjoy the advantages of Lithium Polymer (Li-Po) battery packs without the fear of damaging the cells. The Smart-Stop Li-Po Cut-Off Module will monitor your Li-Po battery pack voltage and prevent the batteries from going below the critical safety voltage level. This is achieved using a combination of throttle interruption and a visual cue from the included ultra-bright blue LED. The Smart-Stop Modules are available for 2-cell (#5470), 3-cell (#5472), or 4-cell (#5471) Li-Po battery packs and can be used with any brand brushed or brushless speed control for car, boat, or air applications.

For racers and bashers alike, the Smart-Stop Module will prevent your vehicle from draining your Li-Po packs below their safety level. The Smart-Stop Module connects between the receiver and speed control, and is easily set up with a One-Touch Set-Up button to learn the ESC’s settings for accurate and complete control. The Smart-Stop Module will interrupt the ESC’s throttle operation with short periods of throttle blipping. This is a warning that the Li-Po battery voltage safety level is approaching, giving the user a chance to bring in the vehicle. In addition, the remotely-mounted, ultra-bright blue LED will begin to flash, giving a clear visual cue that it is time to stop the vehicle. If the vehicle is run beyond this warning period, the Smart-Stop Module will bring the motor to neutral while leaving full steering servo control."

Thanks...I know about that Novak thing, I have 2, NIB, never use it, cause never need it....but I thought "REGULATOR" is different then the "CUTTOFF" device. Anyhow, nevermind....:D

The regulator will only handle 3 amps and this is good enough for a receiver and servo but no where good for running a motor .