i think wolf has some longer threaded ball studs. ill look and see if i can find the part #:D

I believe TM itself has longer ball studs and if you going to raise the camberlink a lot then you can use the same as the steering ball studs.
Stripping the plastic bulkheads is normall when crashing the car.
For me it was the first upgrade on my TM front and rear.

regards Roy

you are correct pro10, this is what i used, i just said wolf cuz thats were i get all my parts from:p

heres the number

http://www.wolfhobbies.com/product.c...7&product=8726

:lol::lol: 2 mind alike:)
Indeed wolf got them also.
I used the original TM ballstuds.
Dunno the number tho as i am at work and can't search for it.

regards Roy

thank you for your helpful replies. I was starting to loose my mind at the track trying to get the rear end to stick.

Currently I run on a bumpy tight short (85ft straight) high grip CRC carpet track.

I had a very productive test session on friday and got my lap times from 11.5sec down to 9.9-9.7sec with quite a few small adjustments.

For high speed sections of the course (high speed sweeper at end of straight) it feels edgy and if pushed traction rolls. Looking to smooth out the car and have more of a pushy feel at high speed.

Can someone give me some setup advice on this car on how to remove the tendency to traction roll and get the car to drive smoother.

Please find my current setup attached.

How to free Up your drive train? I was thinking of using 18 tooth Middle pulley this way you have more tension on the front and rear belt without using a belt tensioner and preventing the belt to slip what do you guys think?

Tried that one.
Won't do a thing to free up the drive train tho.
Get seals out of bearings,flush them with alcohol or brakecleaner and use a light(i use LRP bearing oil) oil in the bearings.
Spin them arround to find out if they move freely and if so put seals back.
You will see that the drive train will be a lot smoother.
It also depends on what belts you are running.
The small normall belts run the smoothest as the wide armid belts have the most resistance.
Bad part is that you need to change the belts more often if you use the small normall belts.
Also the alloy belt pulleys do tend to wear faster then the plastic pulleys and then they rip your belts appart.
I don't know if any one is running ceramic bearings and how these perform in the TM??

regards Roy

Did you notice the belt slipping without the belt tensioner when using the 18 tooth pulley? It also change your Internal drive to 1.94

At first with the small stock belts no slipping but when they stretch yes the rear belt was slipping a bit.
Front i had no problems with it but i don't like the 1.94 internal drive ratio.
I drive the 2.0588 or the 2.0 internal drive ratio

regards Roy

35 tooth pulley /18 tooth pulley = 1.94
34 tooth pulley /18 tooth pulley = 1.88
35 tooth pulley /17 tooth pulley = 2.058
34 tooth pulley /17 tooth pulley = 2.0

2.0 internal drive work the best but belt is too loose even with belt tensioner it still yend to slip.

Us the K-factory belts if your driving 2.0.
They are as tight as a pipe fitting:D and smooth as a babies ass.
Even if they get older they still do the job perfectly.

regards Roy

I run ceramic bearings and the drive train is as smooth or smoother than any car i have had,got ceramic because i was worried about the three belts but its as good as anything i've had

Did you order them on bearing size or did you find some one who has a whole set for the TM??

regards Roy

I'm using a metal shield bearing.. I'm have use ceramic before and see no difference in lap times.

Perhaps not in lap times but how about maintenance?
The shorter the track is the less difference it makes.
I know on our track it makes a difference of 2 to 3 tenth per lap if you got clean and/or new perfect bearings.
We have a track with laptimes between 23 seconds for the slower drivers to low 21 to high 20 for the faster drivers.
This is in the stock 13.5 class.

regards Roy

Ceramic for me has slight advantage on the straight due less drag but running 17.5 with boost does not make any difference.

My bearings are starting to sound like they have gone square. Has anybody purchased the ceramic set from ABEC35.com?

http://www.abec35.com/p3296/Team-Mag...duct_info.html

hi,

if I use 2.0 internal drive, what will be better? or what effect will it have?

Acer racing is where i got them, they have kits for the E4RS for 89.99

With lower internal ratio the car spool up faster making the car to accelerate faster.

And the oither way..
 

Got me thinkin... What happens to the brakes?

Good bearings are everything..
 

Cleaning on their benches and later standing on the podiums... good bearings carry speed in corners, no blips, good acceleration etc etc.. With several magics and perhaps not all the time, most bearings Ive had are quite good if cared for. Kfactory Reds are nice :)

h

Much better brakes:D:D

regards Roy

Well guys 35/18 tooth pulley didn't work well it made the drive train way to tight.

Had a indoor race last weekend and managed to do laptimes that where only 2 a 3 km slower then the mod guys out there.
There wern't enough 13.5 stock racers so we ended up in the mod.
Managed to finish 5th overall and was the first stock driver out there:cool:
Running a lap time of 15.145 as fastest and that was a big improvement over last year on that track.
Funny thing is that i didn't use the best ESC and motor i had.
Used the old LRP SPX SS and a GM13.5 with a FDR of 4.588 so i had some speed out there.
Overall i am happy with the performance of the car last race.

regards Roy

Team magic E4 chassis have the best layout, balance overall, very easy to drive and it's not prone to tweeks but i do like to see a new chassis design with even cut outs and new top deck for low grip asphalt, new front and rear bulkheads were you can adjust the belt tension without using a belt tensioner.

What is lucking on the car is the rip of the two belt driven car however if you can free it up more it's achievable.

can we see your setup?

Yes you can only not on a form as for some reason it won't work for me:flaming:

Here it is:Front
Trackwide front 186
Rollbar front:stock
Toe angle front +1
FF Hingle Pin Mount:1.5-2.5 ><
Mount shim: none
1mm shim on bulkhead underneeth turnbuckle front
Front axle: Spool
Camber front: 0
Ride height front: 5mm
Caster front: 3 degrees
Downstop: -1
Steering system: single K-Factory
Ackermann: outside position and on topdeck rear position
Shock position front:Lower arm outside position and on tower also
Tires front: LRP CPX no tire tracktion applied
Shocks front are Top Photon with TM 1.4 springs and 3 holes and 600CPS oil.

Rear:
Trackwide:190MM
Rollbar: None
Toe angle -3
RR Hingle Pin Mount: 1.5-2.5 <>
Mount shim: None
RF Hingh Pin Mount: ^^
Camber: -3
Ride hight: 5.5MM
Down stop: -3
Rear hub: K-Factory 1.5 degrees
3mm spacer under turnbuckle on bulkhead on the inner position
Turnbuckle position on rear hub: Inner position
Shocks Rear: Top Photon with TM 1.3mm spring 3 holes piston and 600CPS oil
Shock position on tower: Inner hole
Shock position on lower arm: outer position.
ESC: LRP SPX SS Mode 8,no drag brake and no auto brake
Motor: GM13.5 stock spec,no timing.
Tires Rear: LRP CPX tire traction on full tire
Robitronic 5000MAH 40c Lipo
Body Dodge Stratos.

Hope this is to any use for some one as i have often heard that am way off what normally is used.

regards Roy

hey guys need some input im going to be buying 2 E4rs 09 is there anything i should be buying for them before i build them


thanks
Tuan

G4RS 09 is a gas car. This is the E4 thread for the electric car. Wrong forum. Here's the thread you should be:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...rs-2009-a.html

i mean the e4rs 09 i have a g4rs 09 too


but im getting 2 e4rs 09 cars and want to know what i should buy for it before i build them

Try buying a E4RS with some K-Factory or Wolf parts on it.
I know it makes my car rock solid:D
I replaced the plastic one piece steering crank to the alloy part form K-Factory as wel as putting the Lipo kit on it also from K-Factory
Don't use the alloy pulleys as they tend to wear fast and then rip your belts apart.

regards Roy

The upgrades that I have performed to mine are as follows. Please note I only race on high grip carpet track.

K2127 - E4 Lipo conversion kit
Why: allows you to run square ended motors (trinity duo/duo2) motors and extra tall lipo packs (SMC/Thunder Power).

K2145 - Metal Servo Mount
Why: so you do not have to shoe goo or double side tape your servo down.

K2143 - E4 Alum Front Bulkhead.
K2144 - E4 Alum Rear Bulkhead.
Why: Increases overall chassis stiffness (consistancy). In hard accidents the shock towers will not pop loose or the camber links.

K2110 - E4 Alum Steering block
Why: I snapped the plastic ones on my first run.

K2104 - E4 Alum Rear Hub Carrier
Why: Poped the camber link hard enough to ruin the plastic threading on the hub carrier. (Note: Wolf Hobbies Equivalent is cheaper)

K7102 - TC 2 Motor Cooling Head
Why: drops motor temp 20-25deg required to gear up a couple of extra teeth without boiling your motor.

WH10137 - New E4 Carbon Fiber Top Deck
Why: top deck screws are counter sunk giving an additional 1mm clearance above large lipo packs. (note: this top deck has additional material removed which will make it more flexable then original).

The original springs and sway bars are too soft for any practical use on carpet.

k-factory sway bars #1 thru #6 for tuning.
Front: #3 to #5
Rear: #2 or #3

Currently I use Losi JRXS springs as I can find them at my local hobby shop. For my next purchase will be getting a set of trf416 shocks and springs to try out with this car to see if they are more consistent (trying to reduce rebound and stock e4rs shocks have a stiff bladder and tall shock shaft). I have found the following ranges of springs practical for carpet use.

Springs Front : 15lbs thru 22lbs
Springs Rear : 12.5lbs thru 17.5lbs

Shock Oil (Carpet Use)
Front: 35-40wt oil (2 hole)
Rear: 25wt-30wt oil (2 hole)

My only guess would be that you would want to go overall softer in shock oils, springs, and sway bars from my advice above to gain additional traction if using this car outdoors or on low grip surfaces like ashfalt.

thank you ill be running 2 cars one for carpet and other not both on rubber 17.5 carpet and 13.5

ill order the part you listed and start from there

e4 upgrades
 

where online can I get the lipo conversion and will it work on a E4JS?

hi,

I have a prob with my track width.
at the front I have 187mm and at the rear only 186mm. I use from Wolf the alu axels with the alu wheel hexes.
at the front 0mm offset and at the rear +.25mm offset.
How can I make the rear a little bit wider?

I use Tamiya wheel spacers in 0.5mm thickness (#53646 - Blue) and 1.0mm thickness (#53647 - Red). These aren't in the hex shape, but are a round 12mm washer that fits into the hex of the wheel.

Large enough to not cause the wheel to vibrate.

The real question I have is why? Its my understanding that widening the rear track will reduce rear end sidebite (it effectively raises the roll centre).

If you look at the Sakura Zero thread, one of the recommended upgrades is narrow rear blocks to reduce rear track, which calms down the lively rear end of that car.

Why would you widen the rear end??
It will give you less grip is my experience in or outdoor.
I got the car trackwide bog standard and it is fine with me.
Got a Top Phonton and did get ride of the basic rear hexes and put smaller on there.
Got a Sakura Zero and put the narrow rear suspension on it to get it even more stable.
If you got,witch i doubt to much grip on the rear side then you could widen the track.
If you got not so much rear end grip then narrow it and go for the 3 degrees toein and about 3 degrees camber with the longest camber links and on the bulkhead 3mm spacers.
See how that works:D
You won't recognize the car.

regards Roy