Hi:

The issue with the track width is that you cannot use too many spacers without losing the pins that hold the axles together. The reason why we came out with our axles was for that reason and because the 3 piece axles wobble. They wobble even more when you use spacers to the point that the pin is ejected on the straights. We have received word from team drivers that just the axle change is worth .5 seconds per lap. We made them in increments from -.25 mm to +.75 mm. I usually run +.25 mm on my car to get close to the 190 mm limit.

We continue to recommend the E4FS as the car to get for stock motor use. It is too bad that they called it the foam spec car because it has proven itself to be awesome on asphalt. As proof it is the only car we will send to team drivers. For novice and intermediate drivers it can take a greater impact and not get tweaked and for all drivers the stiffer bottom deck has a major advantage in that belt skipping is reduced. The greatest area of parasitic drag on the entire E4 line is that if you try to combat belt skipping by tightening the belts it WILL slow the car down. For a long time drivers thought that the E4 was inherently slow because of the 3rd belt. We have proven that the real culprit is that the belts are usually set too tight. We have posted our recommended method to set belt tension on the car. You can email us if you cannot find it. For Christmas we reduced the E4FS to its lowest price ever. We put a certain number of cars aside for this sale and when they are sold out it will end. We have received a lot of orders so far and it looks like they will run out before the 25th. Contact us if you think you're getting cash for holidays. We'll let you know how to have one set aside.

The list of add-ons can improve the car but we recommend that people start off with the LiPo kit WH10135. The aluminum caster blocks are a good upgrade but whether you really need them or not depends more on the track where you run. We have some customers that go through them pretty fast and we have others that have never broken one. Needless to say those that break them consider them weak whereas others wonder what the big deal is about. One item that we are really happy with is the WH10131, the lightened and hard-coated layshaft. It solves a lot of bearing issues and we haven't seen a single one wear out.

We have extended our Black Friday sale on parts through Christmas to help you all out. Just use discount code: parts15 to get 15% off.

Happy Holidays and Merry Christmas

Thanks for the useful tips, Wolf Hobbies. I'm soon to acquire a E4RS for use in the UK on carpet - would a change of chassis to the 3mm FS spec one sort out the belt skipping issue alone? I see that the issue is the location of the long belt - in most cars, chassis flex isn't an issue as the belts are down the mid-line of the chassis, but the E4 has it off to one side where the flex will have a greater impact.

I presume getting a stiffer top deck would not be as effective in reducing flex?

What exactly does the WH10135 part achieve over the stock one? Better clearance for lipos, fit, or rigidity?

Have you had any dealings with CometRC, the UK TM distributor? It would be handy if they brought in some of your products!

I have only skipping of the side belt with the stock item when it is used a lot.
When using a K-factory belt i don't have skipping at all and i drive the E4RS and before some one says then the belt is tight,no it isn't.
It runs as free as it can get all it's life.
The lipo kit takes care of the room for lager lipo's as the 5000MAH.
I have the K-factory lipo kit on my car and i need to tape my lipo's down in the battery tray if i use the 5000MAH lipo's.
Room isn't a issue any more for me:D
Btw i run the E4RS mainly on carpet with rubber and i had to limit the grip on the back to get it true the corners:D:D

regards Roy

A new belt sounds a bit cheaper than a new chassis - music to my ears! So does the rear end grip; I've been getting to grips with roll centres lately, so shouldn't be an issue dialling out a bit of grip with a few washers under the inner camberlink ballstuds.

I'll wait until I have the RS before I worry about battery fit - I think its safe to assume the 6000mah saddles I have been using won't fit!

I've been looking around for E4RS rubber carpet setups (the one posted a few posts back was frankly bonkers! I've no doubt it works, but there's probably a more sane setup out there that does the same thing!) - ride height 5mm f/r, 3 downstops f/r, 1.5 deg camber f/r sounds a good base to work from - any thoughts on springs or oil? I'll start with stock springs and the included 300 cst oil, or are they way too soft? I'll be nipping down to the music shop for piano wire to make antirollbars, too. I don't even have to bend it thanks to the design of the E4 sway bar assembly!

I use only at the front the stock swaybar and rear none.
Oil for the shocks are 600CPS front and rear.
I use the TM upgrade springs and yes shame on me:blush: i use Top Photon shocks as i want a all red car.
I use 3 degrees toe in rear and 1 degree toe out front.
Camber front 0 and rear 3 degrees.
The car in the pics on the left is my TM as it is now with the lipo kit and all the things mentioned above.
The single car is also my TM as it was a few races back but had to remove some "red" parts as some one was ghost driving and smashed my front c hubs and steering blocks:flaming:.

regards Roy

I mentioned I thought your setup was bonkers, and here's my take on why - it seems to have a lot of changes which cancel out other changes in terms of sidebite.

You mentioned having to dial out rear end grip - according to your setup, you only put additive on the rear tyre, so that's hardly surprising!

If you could take us through your setup and explain why you made certain changes (e.g. 0 deg camber on the front - that one baffles me!), it would really help!

if I have this: RF Hingh Pin Mount: ^^, then I will get anti squat, right? What effect does it have?

@ Colmo

The zero camber at the front is for the tire wear.
The E4RS has tons of grip at the front so you have to reduce it a lot and the zero camber also gets ride of the grove wear on the inner side of the tire.
The TM eats front tires if you have to much camber at the front.
For some reason it is a lot less on the rear:weird:
The spacer under te rear turnbuckle on the bulkhead reduces a bit of side bite but it also makes the car predicteble turn in and out(at least that is what i noticed on the carpet where i drive)
The ride high of 5.5 is at standstill and when putting on the power it lowers.
Also if the car is at the same ride hight front and rear or even lower(at the rear) you get a bit of funny steering
The tire traction that is none present at the front was at the end of the race when the grip overall increases.
Normally i start with full at the rear(and keep it) and half on the front what will change according to the level of grip.
I like a car that is a bit understeered and not one that is oversteered.
Hope this all makes sense:D:D

regards Roy


Here it is:Front
Trackwide front 186
Rollbar front:stock
Toe angle front +1
FF Hingle Pin Mount:1.5-2.5 ><
Mount shim: none
1mm shim on bulkhead underneeth turnbuckle front reduces sidebite
Front axle: Spool
Camber front: 0 reduces sidebite
Ride height front: 5mm
Caster front: 3 degrees
Downstop: -1
Steering system: single K-Factory
Ackermann: outside position and on topdeck rear position
Shock position front:Lower arm outside position and on tower also reduces sidebite
Tires front: LRP CPX no tire tracktion applied reduces sidebite
Shocks front are Top Photon with TM 1.4 springs and 3 holes and 600CPS oil.

Rear:
Trackwide:190MM reduces sidebite Changed to 186mm
Rollbar: None increases sidebite
Toe angle -3
RR Hingle Pin Mount: 1.5-2.5 <>
Mount shim: None
RF Hingh Pin Mount: ^^
Camber: -3 increases sidebite
Ride hight: 5.5MM reduces sidebite
Down stop: -3
Rear hub: K-Factory 1.5 degrees
3mm spacer under turnbuckle on bulkhead on the inner position reduces sidebite
Turnbuckle position on rear hub: Inner position
Shocks Rear: Top Photon with TM 1.3mm spring 3 holes piston and 600CPS oil
Shock position on tower: Inner hole increases sidebite

Shock position on lower arm: outer position.
ESC: LRP SPX SS Mode 8,no drag brake and no auto brake changed to Tekin RS
Motor: GM13.5 stock spec,no timing.
Tires Rear: LRP CPX tire traction on full tire increases sidebite
Robitronic 5000MAH 40c Lipo
Body Dodge Stratos.

Current Setup : Carpet
 

After more guess and test sessions at my local carpet tracks this is where I currently sit with my setup.

I am very interested in finding out what others have found out about this car to improve it's feel on carpet.

Driving Feel:
-A little pushy and lazy on corner entry.
-Tight through center.
-As I race stock my setup is built to maintain highest mid-corner speed.

Largest Improvements (Order Of Magnatude Improvement):
Adding lots of droop improved the car everywhere.
Going from 25wt oil to 40wt oil in the front end. (drastically kills the steering).
Moving the steering bell crank to the rear most position.
Moving Shocks front to #2 and rear to #4
Shimming the front end out to the max. (reduces traction roll)




Here it is:Front
Trackwide front 190mm
Rollbar front:1.4
Toe angle front: 0deg
FF Hingle Pin Mount:1.5-2.5 < >
Mount shim: none
5mm shim on inside bulkhead hole.
0mm shim on c-hub.
Front axle: Spool
Camber front: 1deg
Ride height front: 5.5mm
Caster front: 3 degrees
Downstop: 4mm over ride height (lots of droop)
Steering system: single (plastic stock one)
Ackermann: inside position and rear position on topdeck
Shock position front: Lower arm outside position and hole #2 on tower
Tires front: Jaco Blue (32 shore)
Traction Compound: Niftech Inside 50% tire
Shocks front : Stock with 17.5lbs losi spring using 2 holes and 40wt oil.


Rear:
Trackwide:186MM
Rollbar: 1.1 or 1.2
Toe angle -3
RR Hingle Pin Mount: 1.5-2.5 ><
Mount shim: None
RF Hingh Pin Mount: down and down
Camber: -2
Ride hight: 6MM
Down stop: 3.5mm over ride height
Rear hub: Wolf Hobby 1.5deg
1mm shim on inside bulkhead hole.
0.5mm shim on middle rear hub hole.
Shocks front : Stock Shocks with 15lbs losi spring using 2 holes and 25wt oil.
Shock position on tower: Hole #4
Shock position on lower arm: outer position.
ESC: Tekin RS, Throttle Profile 4, 5 drag brake, Stock Mode.
Motor: Trinity Duo2 17.5 full timing 4.12fdr
Tires Rear: Jaco Blue (32 shore)
Traction Compound: Niftech 100% tire
SMC 5200MAH 50c Lipo
Mazda Speed 6

Cheers for the explanations, Roy - those are probably more useful than the setup itself! Knowing caveats about the behaviour of the car allows us to make informed adjustments!

Capt'n Slow - cheers for that, could you just make it clear that's a foam setup, and is it an FS or RS? Roy and I are talking about rubber with an RS.

RS chassis using jaco rubber tires (Medium Grip or Shore 32) included the shore rating as other clubs run the sorex equivalent.

My apologies, I always associate Jaco and shore ratings with foam. Thanks for the clearup!

Your welcome Colmo.
We all need to help one another to get this car to be great and get as much info on what setup to use on what surface indoor our out.
I am going to race this weekend again on carpet and going to take a Sakura Zero to it's maiden practice and compare it to the TM E4RS i have.
I like the TM indoor as it can take e beating without loosing parts in the mayham:D
It also is very consistend and funny thing is my lap times are quicker on used tires then on new rubber.
Perhaps it is my setup but i like to run on at least 3 or 4 heat old tires(indoor that is).
If i race outdoor on asfalt with the TM i have to use a harder tire at the front to keep a even tire wear all around.
Perhaps this has something to do with my driving skills but with my Top Photon i can drive with the same tires all around and still get the same laptimes.
I love all the cars i have.
All have there plus and minusses but overall i like them all.

regards Roy

Hello all,
Just in time for Christmas I have 6 lightweight, aluminum lipo trays for the E4 ready to ship.
Some of you already use my trays and the rest of you should if you like to have extra clearance for those taller lipo packs. If you know someone who is running my battery trays please ask for their opinion.
These are all going for $55.00 shipped in the continental U.S. and $50.00 each if you buy more than one.
They are exactly as you see in the pictures and from what I am told, they will fit all versions of the E4 carbon chassis.
Keep your CG low and lose those spacers!

Is there a new E4 due out soon - I only ask because the UK distributor is selling the E4RS 09 for £249?

Hmzzzzzzz that is the same numbers but in euro's as the E4RS is here in Holland.
Not much difference between the E4RS and the E4RS 009 tho.

cheers Roy

Stephen, I think the man to ask is Martin Askell.

It's inevitable that a model that is now 2 years old would have to be discounted to maintain sales against the newest, shiniest gear coming out - I've noticed TC racers (certainly in comparison to off-roaders) change chassis as often as socks....

Found the fit and finish on this product top notch. Fits my SMC 5200 50C battery without an issue and I still have 2mm of top deck clearance for the screw head on the steering system and the middle k-factory chassis stiffner.

As an added bonus overall chassis stiffness is improved as well. Check out the attached pictures to see the fit for yourself.

"taps fingers and looks at Yodog" Where were you last month:weird::confused:;)

cheers Roy

I spoke to wolf from wolfhobbies their is no new car comming out yet from Team Magic. But wolfhobbies is testing some prototype parts for the E4.

hi,

i need 5.0fdr, so can I use 85/35? will this fit?

Depends on what internal drive ratio you are using.
If it is 2.0588 then yes it will fit but just.
If you use 81/33 then it will fit for sure(5.0534).
If you are using another IDR then you have to recalculate.

regards Roy

My trip got canceled right after I blew $200 on a passport.:flaming:

Oh well, maybe for the better because my co-worker went and had a miserable time with weather and travel problems.

Trays still available...

Shame about the $200 you spend on your passport.
Weather was indeed bad but hey what can you expect in November:D

cheers Roy

Colmo - what handling issues are you experiencing with the car. If you don't mind me asking what is your current setup on the car?

how much for 2 to canada

$100 as stated in the original post, even to Canada as long as I send via USPS First Class mail. (least expensive method) PM me for my paypal addie as posting it invites a ton (metric ton in canada) of spam.

Captn slow is from there also.

Rick,

save me one of the battery tray... Did you come with a new rear shock mount?

I have one put aside for you already.
I'm on vacation all week so I should find time to model the mount this week.

Does this tray work with the E4JS ???

Rick,

Cool can't wait to see what you can come up with. Our club is looking at opening a indoor track in Lindsey we are trying to get the building secured. If we get everything settled we are looking at a very good deal in rent at around $200-$300 rent a month.

Sorry it only fits all carbon chassis versions. The JS is a plastic tub chassis and does not use a tray for the battery as far I know.

Cool!
I've been keeping tabs on the XS forum and I hope to make it down soon.

Looking to take a bit more steering out of the car. By adding 1mm shim to the front of the rear suspension mount have a large overall effect (anti-squat) on the steering or does it take away too much rear grip (roll) out of the car.

Thinking that running anti-squate is more perfered over running anti-dive in the front as I have not seen many that use anti-dive in the front as part of there setups.

I think you will get anti squad if you put the RF Hingh Pin Mount like this ^^.
I also think that this will reduce the front grip during acceleration, but I will test it.

That's my (inexpert) thinking too - the difference between adding anti-dive and taking away anti-squat is if the car is accelerating or decelerating.

Anti-dive has greatest effect in deceleration, anti-squat when accelerating.

The effect that I am after is to make the car a little less reactive or edgy decelerating into a corner. As I get back on the throttle I want all the steering to come back.

My current setup thinking:

Anti-dive = Will cause the front end to wash out as it will take 1-2deg of caster out of the car when I am only running the 3deg blocks. To counter act this affect I would need to install the 6deg blocks which would put me back to where I started or potentially having more reactive caster.

Anti-Squat = Decrease steering response off power entering a corner as less weight is transfered forward. On-power steering is increased when the throttle is applied due to less weight transfering to the rear.

The only problem that I have with my thinking is nobody runs anti-squat on carpet while anti-dive seems normal.

You generate a lot of grip on carpet specially when the traction comes up Having anti-dive prevent the car having too much grip when cornering so the car won't suffer from under steer.

Your asphalt setup should work on carpet with very small changes To get it dialed this assuming you are running rubber tire.