Rear Roll Center
 

Was curious about the rear roll center. Do I have something setup wrong or is it normal for the rear arm to extend a good 6-10mm beyond the bottom of the chassis when the spring is fully compressed?

Or is this the reason why everyone increases the height of the rear suspension mounts by 1-1.5mm.

Had on E4FS,... from the looks of it the shocks you are using are different.
I remember the only thing that stopped mines from going up that far was the Shocks ability to compress that much.

It depends on what shock bodies and what rear lower arms you are using.
With the FS arms(if you can get them) and the stock shocks, you won't be able to compress them that much.
With the new rear arms(RS and JS) and the Tamiya,Top Photon,3racing, Asso shocks you can compress them so high.
Nothing to worry about.
Gives you more shock travel and less flipping when riding the curbs:D:D

regards Roy

There is still hope for a centered design
 

Just saw this thread:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...iated-tc9.html
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a2/...nertiastc9.jpg

Kind of inspiring for a possible E4 project. (ie. shorty lipo, bottom chassis mounted steering)

Bring it back alive :lol::lol:

Dropped in a new Reedy Sonic 17.5 in my e4 today. And literally, it dropped right in. :eek: First motor I have been able to drop in without taking off the side brace. Pretty sweet. :nod:

I shelved my E4 for now.

When I have time later this year, I'll try to bring it back as a project.

Anyone thought of adapting the Exotek chassis kit for the TA06 onto the E4?

Letting go of the E4
 

I've decided to let go of my E4.

Its an E4JS but has been upgraded throughout short of the JS style chassis.

Its got:

• Red alum. bulkheads
• Alum. 1.5deg rear uprights
• Lightweight center shaft
• Front spool
• Rear ball diff
• 4deg alum ball bearing supported caster blocks
• Graphite shock towers front and rear.

It also have the Yodog parts on it as well.

Plus a whole lot of parts, almost enough to build another E4JS!
(Ball diffs, bulkheads, chassis, shock tower, belts, etc.)

I'm selling it cheap to fund another project. Seriously it will be less than what I paid for the option parts alone.

PM me if you're interested.:)

I have two complete E4 cars and many extras for sale if anyone is interested.
One DE ltd. Ed., one C4

PM me if interested.

Got my E4 the other day and had a good time messing with it so far.
quite pleased with how easily the car comes apart and goes together, no strange screw sizes or tricky assemblies to worry about. just unscrew shit and it falls apart.

had to raise my top deck up an additional 1mm over the 2mm sloe4 put in there already to fit my 5000mah gens ace. shaved the plastic belt tension bulkhead a little too to make the lipo go in and out smoother.

two things that are dumb i think though.. rear outer hinge pin.. why.. WHY. why would you have an e-clip in the front, then just decide to use a setscrew in the back? why not use a setscrew in both or eclip in both? seems like a decent idea to hold the pin, but also seem very easy to strip the thread.

also, the aluminum turnbuckles that have a non standard hex.. not good.

i had to use a set of needle nose pliars to adjust them which mangled them a little.
first thing ill do is transplant the titanium ones my FTtc5 used. which have standard turnbuckle wrench sizes.

kinda wish the chassis was a little bit wider to fit electronics. i plan to buy a 1251 shorty servo for this car, but still leaves part of the RX and ESC exposed to side impact ect. my tc5 def looked cleaner when all wired up.

wont get to run it til this weekend indoors, or if the rain stops ill go for a spin outside. nice car so far.

I have a Savox 1250MG new in box if you'd like a deal on one please PM me.

1250 might be a little small for a touring car. Though wouldnt mind another one for wgt in the future.

Not in a hurry atm. Ill prob get something when i do a summer parts order. We dont even run touring cars in winter.

There's a wrench that normally comes with the kits that fit the turnbuckles
http://www.wolfhobbies.com/med-19130405.jpg
http://www.wolfhobbies.com/product.c...9&product=8279

Plenty have had no problems wiring or fitting electronics in the E4. The only requirement is a low profile steering servo and a micro rx which most all the newer TCs need for a clean installation. Even the electronics in my XRay is just as prone to side impact as any other TC like the E4.

Nice wrench but im not
Gonna BUY one when i have a whole car to
Scavenge from ha.

I think i might try putting the rx and esc on their side tonight. Might make it easier to tuck away wires ect.

Im out of money for a bit so my 1257tg will have to take the scrub like a man.

The "twelfth scale" servo will work fine. I have had one on my photon for some time now.

you can pm me your expected price. though i still might wait. i live in canada and shipping and chance of customs is rarely worth it unless im buying a bunch of stuff at once. thanks for the offer though. i have this servo in my 12r5.1 and love it. cheap and very fast/durable. i guess there is no reason it wouldn't work in a Touring car.

anyone else have problems with the center pully on the layshaft flinging its pin? i got the car all wired up and gave it a rev on the desk and out came that pin... only thing holding it is a Oring? any better solution? prob try a few layers of heatshrink but somthing... hard would be nice.


Edit:

used a outdrive ring. funny. i got a puff of smoke when i found the pin, thought i had an electrical problem. but i guess it was just the axel raping the pully ha.

Any pin that's just being held in place by a oring and not a set screw will fling out without no load.

dif ring worked pretty well and didnt take much effort to get over the orings grove. i might look into what size setscrews i might need to try a more perminent solution. though it might never need it.

she is all ready. minus steering linkage. i didnt get one with the car so i tried to make one from a swaybar link and various ends, but it didnt work out when i crashed ha. i should get a servo saver too. dunno why i didnt when i bought wire but whatevs.

maybe my steering blocks were worn but didnt take much impact to toss the lower screw on the left side. maybe just some CA in the hole to bring the thread back. also notice quite a bit of caster wobble. but maybe a halfmil shim in the front outer pins would help that.

funny. the drive train is smoother with one bad layshaft bearing than my tc5 with a full set of new bearings.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...7/1a9ef62b.jpg

Mine have hollow shafts and set screws.

took my E4 out lat night for a test run on our carpet track and quite pleased with how easy the car is to drive fast.

took a lot of effort to get my tc5 predictable on carpet and this car just does it out of the box.

question though. my car didnt come with a servo saver. picked up a couple direct mounts to try, but the short one for pancars is too small to get enough travel in one direction, the larger one wont fit over the chassis.
i could prob shim the servo up higher to make it fit, but before i do that, thought id get some opinions.

is the TM servo saver listed on wolfhobbies the best/only option?

You Have to sim the servo to give you clearance not to hit the top deck. I still got TM E4 I just wish TM just refine the chassis instead copying everyone else on the market. I love he design but it's just not competitive enough to keep up with all the TC out on the market so I jumped ship.

i dont really get too hung up on whether a chassis is widely considered competitive or not.
im sure if i compare it to a 2011/2012 $500 chassis, sure it wont be as competitive, but the guy sitting in top spot in our A final could probably take a used TC3 from here, any tc3, not touch a damn thing on it, and kick most of our asses.

I dont have the money for a new chassis, and id rather have MORE chassis than just one really good one to run more classes and get MORE track time.


i managed to get a pancar servo saver to work by switching to the dual bellcrank steering system. though the saver is quite soft. would probably deflect in a lot of corners.
are the taem magic ones stiffer?

They are stiffer.
I don't know why everybody is having problems with the TM and placing servosavers?
I used a low profile servo with a Tamiya saver and the 3racing alu servosaver horn without problems.
later on i didn't use a servosaver at all.
Don't put the horn vertical in neutral position as this will give you uneven steering trow.

regards Roy

Hey guys noob here lol. I have had my E4D for approx a year now but have just recently got it up and running. The bearings seals were starting to pop off so i replaced them with new bearings however i had a few questions. Are there any parts of this car i need to oil or grease before assembling it. I did not get a manual with my car nor can i find a full build manual that tells me all the locations i need to lube and i have only ever built 1 other rc car ( tamiya tt-01d ) which was a shaft driven car. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you

Before i attempt an order form wolf, does anyone have any Team Magic Oem Futaba servo saver arms? i wanna get a couple of them if i can. wolf has them apparently, but if its gonna take a while to get, id just like to double check here first.

It's always a god idea to oil and grease all moving parts..

Last week I ordered a set of rear arms from Wolf on Sunday and they were delivered on Thursday. USPS too. (Central Illinois)

Thats pretty good. Heard it could take much longer is why i was scared. Ill just go ahead and order a few.

wolf is an outstanding place to get parts. i have always gotten my parts within 3-4 days. should be no worries at all:D

Agree:D

broke two steering blocks in as many times running the e4 so broke down and cleaned out sloe4's kfactory goodies ha.
in the mean time, im without steering blocks and a minimum of 2 weeks away from any from wolf/amain.

was fiddling around and see that my associated blocks fit the TM caster blocks.
these steering blocks have a little more meat around the steering arm, where i kept breaking them, so they would make a suitable short term fix, or long term, since i never ever broke one in my first year hitting everything.

of course it requires transplaning the tc5 bearings/crushtube and stub axel/hex's. a lot to buy if you dont have it already. Team magic dogbones fit the tc5 stubs and use the tc5 through pin. little bit of play but work smooth.
the point being, parts from other cars might also work as replacements if you don't wanna drop $70 for steering blocks =)

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...7/6512e950.jpg

I've never had a problem with the steering knuckles. However I had problems with the upper bulkheads snapping, especially the rear. But I think its cheaper to just get the alum. knuckles from Wolf than to switch everything over to AE.

i was running a 12th scale SUPPPPER soft servo saver and still broke the knuckle twice lol. i like the design of the bearings and the carrier, though i think there is some chatter in tight turns getting on the throttle. either that or my belts are flapping off something.

i got the entire set of aluminum goodies coming. just sharing how im keeping my car going in the mean time =)

a few weeks until my outdoor season starts but car is all rebuilt and ready for electronics. got most of the aluminum for a steal and i must say, this is a pretty sexy car.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...7/bee78fa6.jpg

and the dumpster of parts sloe4 sold me. I think i cleaned him out on this one ha.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...7/dc40eb8d.jpg

a few weeks until my outdoor season starts but car is all rebuilt and ready for electronics. got most of the aluminum for a steal and i must say, this is a pretty sexy car.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...7/bee78fa6.jpg

and the dumpster of parts sloe4 sold me. I think i cleaned him out on this one ha.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...7/dc40eb8d.jpg

Now them front turnbuckles look sexy. Very nice!!

I had to vulture a few of my ae ones cause you didnt send me the appropriate wrench!

I might get some traxxas turnbuckles to match the red, or lunsford, then i can put my tc5 back together to sell it.
need money cause i just bought an nt1 today =|

oh like i'm some e4 god and actually have that special illusive wrench huh? :sneaky: How much you give me for it? :lol::lol::lol:

its ok. as nice as the rest of the car is, the aluminum turnbuckles are kind crap. i had to use pliars on the rear camber links and that's when i started sniping ae titanium turnbuckles lol.

im actually kinda curious how many xray parts will be compatible. i think the axels and carriers are the same, so might have to compare some of my nt1 spares.

soooo bitch bitch bitch i know but has anyone found the TM servo saver to be too soft? its harder than the pancar one i tried, but still having some trouble with bumpsteer. the car will take off straight out of a corner, but if it hits an dip in the ground it will veer off to one side.
Concerned it will do this when i race it outdoors.

I might be good enough now to delete the saver and just run an arm, or maybe ic an ca the two halves together? will the force of a strong impact break the ca without shereing the saver apart?