i think wolf has some longer threaded ball studs. ill look and see if i can find the part #

I believe TM itself has longer ball studs and if you going to raise the camberlink a lot then you can use the same as the steering ball studs.
Stripping the plastic bulkheads is normall when crashing the car.
For me it was the first upgrade on my TM front and rear.

regards Roy

you are correct pro10, this is what i used, i just said wolf cuz thats were i get all my parts from

heres the number

http://www.wolfhobbies.com/product.c...7&product=8726

2 mind alike
Indeed wolf got them also.
I used the original TM ballstuds.
Dunno the number tho as i am at work and can't search for it.

regards Roy

thank you for your helpful replies. I was starting to loose my mind at the track trying to get the rear end to stick.

Currently I run on a bumpy tight short (85ft straight) high grip CRC carpet track.

I had a very productive test session on friday and got my lap times from 11.5sec down to 9.9-9.7sec with quite a few small adjustments.

For high speed sections of the course (high speed sweeper at end of straight) it feels edgy and if pushed traction rolls. Looking to smooth out the car and have more of a pushy feel at high speed.

Can someone give me some setup advice on this car on how to remove the tendency to traction roll and get the car to drive smoother.

Please find my current setup attached.

How to free Up your drive train? I was thinking of using 18 tooth Middle pulley this way you have more tension on the front and rear belt without using a belt tensioner and preventing the belt to slip what do you guys think?

Tried that one.
Won't do a thing to free up the drive train tho.
Get seals out of bearings,flush them with alcohol or brakecleaner and use a light(i use LRP bearing oil) oil in the bearings.
Spin them arround to find out if they move freely and if so put seals back.
You will see that the drive train will be a lot smoother.
It also depends on what belts you are running.
The small normall belts run the smoothest as the wide armid belts have the most resistance.
Bad part is that you need to change the belts more often if you use the small normall belts.
Also the alloy belt pulleys do tend to wear faster then the plastic pulleys and then they rip your belts appart.
I don't know if any one is running ceramic bearings and how these perform in the TM??

regards Roy

Did you notice the belt slipping without the belt tensioner when using the 18 tooth pulley? It also change your Internal drive to 1.94

At first with the small stock belts no slipping but when they stretch yes the rear belt was slipping a bit.
Front i had no problems with it but i don't like the 1.94 internal drive ratio.
I drive the 2.0588 or the 2.0 internal drive ratio

regards Roy

35 tooth pulley /18 tooth pulley = 1.94
34 tooth pulley /18 tooth pulley = 1.88
35 tooth pulley /17 tooth pulley = 2.058
34 tooth pulley /17 tooth pulley = 2.0

2.0 internal drive work the best but belt is too loose even with belt tensioner it still yend to slip.

Us the K-factory belts if your driving 2.0.
They are as tight as a pipe fitting and smooth as a babies ass.
Even if they get older they still do the job perfectly.

regards Roy

I run ceramic bearings and the drive train is as smooth or smoother than any car i have had,got ceramic because i was worried about the three belts but its as good as anything i've had

Did you order them on bearing size or did you find some one who has a whole set for the TM??

regards Roy

I'm using a metal shield bearing.. I'm have use ceramic before and see no difference in lap times.