YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

G4RS 09 is a gas car. This is the E4 thread for the electric car. Wrong forum. Here's the thread you should be:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...rs-2009-a.html

td-civ

iTrader: (18)

i mean the e4rs 09 i have a g4rs 09 too


but im getting 2 e4rs 09 cars and want to know what i should buy for it before i build them

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

Try buying a E4RS with some K-Factory or Wolf parts on it.
I know it makes my car rock solid
I replaced the plastic one piece steering crank to the alloy part form K-Factory as wel as putting the Lipo kit on it also from K-Factory
Don't use the alloy pulleys as they tend to wear fast and then rip your belts apart.

regards Roy

Capt'N_Slow

iTrader: (10)

The upgrades that I have performed to mine are as follows. Please note I only race on high grip carpet track.

K2127 - E4 Lipo conversion kit
Why: allows you to run square ended motors (trinity duo/duo2) motors and extra tall lipo packs (SMC/Thunder Power).

K2145 - Metal Servo Mount
Why: so you do not have to shoe goo or double side tape your servo down.

K2143 - E4 Alum Front Bulkhead.
K2144 - E4 Alum Rear Bulkhead.
Why: Increases overall chassis stiffness (consistancy). In hard accidents the shock towers will not pop loose or the camber links.

K2110 - E4 Alum Steering block
Why: I snapped the plastic ones on my first run.

K2104 - E4 Alum Rear Hub Carrier
Why: Poped the camber link hard enough to ruin the plastic threading on the hub carrier. (Note: Wolf Hobbies Equivalent is cheaper)

K7102 - TC 2 Motor Cooling Head
Why: drops motor temp 20-25deg required to gear up a couple of extra teeth without boiling your motor.

WH10137 - New E4 Carbon Fiber Top Deck
Why: top deck screws are counter sunk giving an additional 1mm clearance above large lipo packs. (note: this top deck has additional material removed which will make it more flexable then original).

The original springs and sway bars are too soft for any practical use on carpet.

k-factory sway bars #1 thru #6 for tuning.
Front: #3 to #5
Rear: #2 or #3

Currently I use Losi JRXS springs as I can find them at my local hobby shop. For my next purchase will be getting a set of trf416 shocks and springs to try out with this car to see if they are more consistent (trying to reduce rebound and stock e4rs shocks have a stiff bladder and tall shock shaft). I have found the following ranges of springs practical for carpet use.

Springs Front : 15lbs thru 22lbs
Springs Rear : 12.5lbs thru 17.5lbs

Shock Oil (Carpet Use)
Front: 35-40wt oil (2 hole)
Rear: 25wt-30wt oil (2 hole)

My only guess would be that you would want to go overall softer in shock oils, springs, and sway bars from my advice above to gain additional traction if using this car outdoors or on low grip surfaces like ashfalt.

td-civ

iTrader: (18)

thank you ill be running 2 cars one for carpet and other not both on rubber 17.5 carpet and 13.5

ill order the part you listed and start from there

Johnn27

iTrader: (89)

where online can I get the lipo conversion and will it work on a E4JS?

SebO

iTrader: (1)

hi,

I have a prob with my track width.
at the front I have 187mm and at the rear only 186mm. I use from Wolf the alu axels with the alu wheel hexes.
at the front 0mm offset and at the rear +.25mm offset.
How can I make the rear a little bit wider?

Capt'N_Slow

iTrader: (10)

I use Tamiya wheel spacers in 0.5mm thickness (#53646 - Blue) and 1.0mm thickness (#53647 - Red). These aren't in the hex shape, but are a round 12mm washer that fits into the hex of the wheel.

Large enough to not cause the wheel to vibrate.

colmo

The real question I have is why? Its my understanding that widening the rear track will reduce rear end sidebite (it effectively raises the roll centre).

If you look at the Sakura Zero thread, one of the recommended upgrades is narrow rear blocks to reduce rear track, which calms down the lively rear end of that car.

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

Why would you widen the rear end??
It will give you less grip is my experience in or outdoor.
I got the car trackwide bog standard and it is fine with me.
Got a Top Phonton and did get ride of the basic rear hexes and put smaller on there.
Got a Sakura Zero and put the narrow rear suspension on it to get it even more stable.
If you got,witch i doubt to much grip on the rear side then you could widen the track.
If you got not so much rear end grip then narrow it and go for the 3 degrees toein and about 3 degrees camber with the longest camber links and on the bulkhead 3mm spacers.
See how that works
You won't recognize the car.

regards Roy

Wolf Hobbies

Hi:

The issue with the track width is that you cannot use too many spacers without losing the pins that hold the axles together. The reason why we came out with our axles was for that reason and because the 3 piece axles wobble. They wobble even more when you use spacers to the point that the pin is ejected on the straights. We have received word from team drivers that just the axle change is worth .5 seconds per lap. We made them in increments from -.25 mm to +.75 mm. I usually run +.25 mm on my car to get close to the 190 mm limit.

We continue to recommend the E4FS as the car to get for stock motor use. It is too bad that they called it the foam spec car because it has proven itself to be awesome on asphalt. As proof it is the only car we will send to team drivers. For novice and intermediate drivers it can take a greater impact and not get tweaked and for all drivers the stiffer bottom deck has a major advantage in that belt skipping is reduced. The greatest area of parasitic drag on the entire E4 line is that if you try to combat belt skipping by tightening the belts it WILL slow the car down. For a long time drivers thought that the E4 was inherently slow because of the 3rd belt. We have proven that the real culprit is that the belts are usually set too tight. We have posted our recommended method to set belt tension on the car. You can email us if you cannot find it. For Christmas we reduced the E4FS to its lowest price ever. We put a certain number of cars aside for this sale and when they are sold out it will end. We have received a lot of orders so far and it looks like they will run out before the 25th. Contact us if you think you're getting cash for holidays. We'll let you know how to have one set aside.

The list of add-ons can improve the car but we recommend that people start off with the LiPo kit WH10135. The aluminum caster blocks are a good upgrade but whether you really need them or not depends more on the track where you run. We have some customers that go through them pretty fast and we have others that have never broken one. Needless to say those that break them consider them weak whereas others wonder what the big deal is about. One item that we are really happy with is the WH10131, the lightened and hard-coated layshaft. It solves a lot of bearing issues and we haven't seen a single one wear out.

We have extended our Black Friday sale on parts through Christmas to help you all out. Just use discount code: parts15 to get 15% off.

Happy Holidays and Merry Christmas

colmo

Thanks for the useful tips, Wolf Hobbies. I'm soon to acquire a E4RS for use in the UK on carpet - would a change of chassis to the 3mm FS spec one sort out the belt skipping issue alone? I see that the issue is the location of the long belt - in most cars, chassis flex isn't an issue as the belts are down the mid-line of the chassis, but the E4 has it off to one side where the flex will have a greater impact.

I presume getting a stiffer top deck would not be as effective in reducing flex?

What exactly does the WH10135 part achieve over the stock one? Better clearance for lipos, fit, or rigidity?

Have you had any dealings with CometRC, the UK TM distributor? It would be handy if they brought in some of your products!

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

I have only skipping of the side belt with the stock item when it is used a lot.
When using a K-factory belt i don't have skipping at all and i drive the E4RS and before some one says then the belt is tight,no it isn't.
It runs as free as it can get all it's life.
The lipo kit takes care of the room for lager lipo's as the 5000MAH.
I have the K-factory lipo kit on my car and i need to tape my lipo's down in the battery tray if i use the 5000MAH lipo's.
Room isn't a issue any more for me
Btw i run the E4RS mainly on carpet with rubber and i had to limit the grip on the back to get it true the corners

regards Roy

colmo

A new belt sounds a bit cheaper than a new chassis - music to my ears! So does the rear end grip; I've been getting to grips with roll centres lately, so shouldn't be an issue dialling out a bit of grip with a few washers under the inner camberlink ballstuds.

I'll wait until I have the RS before I worry about battery fit - I think its safe to assume the 6000mah saddles I have been using won't fit!

I've been looking around for E4RS rubber carpet setups (the one posted a few posts back was frankly bonkers! I've no doubt it works, but there's probably a more sane setup out there that does the same thing!) - ride height 5mm f/r, 3 downstops f/r, 1.5 deg camber f/r sounds a good base to work from - any thoughts on springs or oil? I'll start with stock springs and the included 300 cst oil, or are they way too soft? I'll be nipping down to the music shop for piano wire to make antirollbars, too. I don't even have to bend it thanks to the design of the E4 sway bar assembly!

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

I use only at the front the stock swaybar and rear none.
Oil for the shocks are 600CPS front and rear.
I use the TM upgrade springs and yes shame on me i use Top Photon shocks as i want a all red car.
I use 3 degrees toe in rear and 1 degree toe out front.
Camber front 0 and rear 3 degrees.
The car in the pics on the left is my TM as it is now with the lipo kit and all the things mentioned above.
The single car is also my TM as it was a few races back but had to remove some "red" parts as some one was ghost driving and smashed my front c hubs and steering blocks.

regards Roy