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Old 02-13-2011, 09:32 PM   #3661
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Box setup is really good with this car... E4 FS like less rear lower roll center while E4 RS like more lower roll center other than that run the car with basic setup.
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Old 02-14-2011, 10:53 PM   #3662
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Hi all, I made some tweaks to the chassis model. What do you think?
I got a quote on getting them made but it's not good news. Sure they can make them but the price is out there and I can't fork out the kind of cash needed to have them made outside. I hope to have a couple of chassis cut in the next few weeks for testing and if all goes well, maybe I can find another shop to cut them at a far better price.
Notice the cutouts for the battery humps and the taper from the main body to the bulkhead locations are symmetrical. This should make chassis flex more consistent from front to rear.
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Team Magic E4 Thread-new-chassis-plate.jpg   Team Magic E4 Thread-new-chassis-plate-bottom.jpg  

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Old 02-14-2011, 11:12 PM   #3663
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Looks good Rick...
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Old 02-15-2011, 02:32 AM   #3664
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I think it is a very good solution, it will give you more flex at the rear.
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Old 02-15-2011, 06:14 AM   #3665
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I'm hoping to use this new chassis on a E4JS - what would I need to make that work?
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Old 02-15-2011, 08:32 AM   #3666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YoDog View Post
Hi all, I made some tweaks to the chassis model. What do you think?
I got a quote on getting them made but it's not good news. Sure they can make them but the price is out there and I can't fork out the kind of cash needed to have them made outside. I hope to have a couple of chassis cut in the next few weeks for testing and if all goes well, maybe I can find another shop to cut them at a far better price.
Notice the cutouts for the battery humps and the taper from the main body to the bulkhead locations are symmetrical. This should make chassis flex more consistent from front to rear.
I'm just curious but Is it necessary to build out of carbon fiber ? And why ??
I know it has some good structural qualities but couldn't FRP or some other material be used that would be significantly less expensive to produce and offer similar traits ?
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Old 02-15-2011, 10:14 AM   #3667
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Originally Posted by Evoracer View Post
I'm just curious but Is it necessary to build out of carbon fiber ? And why ??
I know it has some good structural qualities but couldn't FRP or some other material be used that would be significantly less expensive to produce and offer similar traits ?
FRP could work just fine but it is not as light weight and rigid as the carbon. The price of the carbon is not so much the issue as it is the machine setup and cost per part for so few pieces being made. If I were making 100 chassis then it might be reasonable per part but we're only talking about 10 pieces or so.

As far as the JS model goes, I don't currently have one so I really can't comment on whether or not my chassis will work with it.
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Old 02-15-2011, 01:49 PM   #3668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YoDog View Post
Hi all, I made some tweaks to the chassis model. What do you think?
I got a quote on getting them made but it's not good news. Sure they can make them but the price is out there and I can't fork out the kind of cash needed to have them made outside. I hope to have a couple of chassis cut in the next few weeks for testing and if all goes well, maybe I can find another shop to cut them at a far better price.
Notice the cutouts for the battery humps and the taper from the main body to the bulkhead locations are symmetrical. This should make chassis flex more consistent from front to rear.
Have you tried contacting Jason at Bmi ??
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Old 02-15-2011, 02:42 PM   #3669
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Dumb question time. Still trying to understand the parts a bit better and somehow I missed this. As i understand, the stock rear arms on the FS have 1 degree of toe built in...correct ?? So the rear pivot block gives you what degree toe in each position of the cap?? I've seen 1.5 and 2.5 shown on setup sheets. is that including the 1 degree at the arms ? And what happens if you use the JS arms I've seen mention of? And on that...how do you tell the difference between the available arms ? I've copied some of Marcos's setups and notice he used 3 degrees regularly so I'm betting that between the arm, block and the optional 1.5 upright...that gives 3 degrees of toe in. Thanks all.
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Old 02-15-2011, 03:36 PM   #3670
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcos.J View Post
Have you tried contacting Jason at Bmi ??
Yup, that's where I got my primary quote.
At roughly $90 cost each I would have to charge about $130 each just to make it worth my while. Besides, I don't have an extra $900 to front the cost of having 10 chassis made.
I will try to talk our machinist into cutting them for us or at least program the mill for me to run them through myself.
I'm not opposed to designing the parts if someone else wants to produce them. It's just hard to get a shop to drop the jobs they have in the pipeline for such a small project. for them, time is definitely $money$.
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Old 02-15-2011, 09:33 PM   #3671
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If you are running rubber tires don't use the FS arm you will not get the proper ride height. I will stick with the stock setup I found out having the rear toe in more than 2.5 it's make the rear a little loose cause the car generates too much steering.. Try putting 0.5 mm toe-in on the front and 2.5 mm rear toe-in with this setup the car is very easy too drive...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Evoracer View Post
Dumb question time. Still trying to understand the parts a bit better and somehow I missed this. As i understand, the stock rear arms on the FS have 1 degree of toe built in...correct ?? So the rear pivot block gives you what degree toe in each position of the cap?? I've seen 1.5 and 2.5 shown on setup sheets. is that including the 1 degree at the arms ? And what happens if you use the JS arms I've seen mention of? And on that...how do you tell the difference between the available arms ? I've copied some of Marcos's setups and notice he used 3 degrees regularly so I'm betting that between the arm, block and the optional 1.5 upright...that gives 3 degrees of toe in. Thanks all.
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Old 02-15-2011, 09:38 PM   #3672
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Evoracer,

All the E4 arms are exactly the same except for the FS... FS gives you 1 degree of toe-in and the mounting hole for the shocks is higher this is specifically design for foam tires which as we all know foam tire diameter is smaller when trued down...
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Old 02-16-2011, 05:33 AM   #3673
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Thanks for the help. Haven't seen the 2 arms together. Can anyone post a pic of the FS arm and a JS/RS arrm ?? To clarify the toe in....Ok, so the arms have 1 degree toe built in. When I adjust the cap on the rear toe block (hinge pin mount) either < > or > <, the toe is either 1.5 or 2.5 including the 1 degree at the arm.....correct ?? So the toe block adjustment is actually 1/2 degree or 1.5 degree by itself ?? The front block is the same ??

Sorry about my confusion. Aside from 200+ pages of thread info,is there a good reference site or something that clearly shows details such as these including the differences in some parts such as the FS arms vs. JS/RS arms ??
seems like it would really help clear up some things.
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Old 02-16-2011, 11:15 AM   #3674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evoracer View Post
I've copied some of Marcos's setups and notice he used 3 degrees regularly so I'm betting that between the arm, block and the optional 1.5 upright...that gives 3 degrees of toe in. Thanks all.
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Old 02-16-2011, 11:25 AM   #3675
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Short but sweet Thanks Marcos !!
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