jcr

I got the Mini CVA shocks, if I was to buy one set, which one is recommended the 53333 or the TRF short?

NT

iTrader: (21)

I only ever use the kit oil. Works fine for me - outdoor ashphalt.

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

jcr,

I would buy the 53333 but two sets, so if you want to run blue springs front and rear you can. If you decide in the future you require stiffer springs then buy the short TRF springs which come in pairs as needed. The other option is to buy the 3Racing set of springs which has four pairs of springs , which are cheaper and get two sets of them. The new 3Racing alloy shocks could be another way of getting cheap shocks. These come a s set of four and come with the hardware to mount to your mini. These are very popular with mini racers here.

For shock oil I normally use 30-40 wt oil in TRF shocks, with 3 hole pistons and with the plastic cva's I used what was supplied in the kit with two hole pistons. You will need to use spacers under the piston. You can use either 'o' rings or the supplied plastic 5/6mm spacer. For a MO5 shock,(using a TC length TRF), I only add 3mm of spacers. For my driving the extra droop works.

By memory the cva's have larger diameter holes than the TRF and come with 900 wt oil. For ride height on the MO3 you want the front at 3-4mm measured under the motor or the other way is to see if the front arms are sitting straight.

Later,

Calvin.

jcr

i'm trying to make mine TCS legal so I got ot stick with Tamiya springs... looking through some of the local minis around I think most are using the TRF blue and yellow.... so maybe I should invest in the TRF springs over the 53333 springset (although I got a pair of yellow and reds for free but I think those are too soft for the mini).

RossoTorro

iTrader: (1)

One of our fastest at our track runs yellow front and red rears with the clear dampers from the M05Pro on a M03.
I run blue front and blue rears and we are equally quick with my M03...
I guess springs don't matter that much on mini's...

edhchoe

iTrader: (41)

As long as the ride height is about 3-6mm and there is some shock travel and the tires hook up I think it's 95% driver that determines how fast the car is around the track.

gtfour93

iTrader: (22)

Lightly tuned car - modified driver!

Granpa

What you are saying can be true, but not always. A lot of it is determined by the level of competition. The higher the level of competition, the better set up the car must be. On occasion, a well set up car in the hands of a lesser driver can rule the day. This I know from personal experience.

Another case in point is the USA 2009 TCS Series. The Nationals winner was in the C Main at the Regionals held at the same track. The difference here was set up. Ray K. was the only guy close and he was a little short on set up time.

asw7576

Hi friends,

what lipo battery that can fit into M04 and M03's battery slot without modification ? ..... hopefully something like team orion 3800mah 30c ?

[ I measured the widest point of M04 and M03's battery slot are 46.5mm and 48.5 mm respectively ].

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

you got this one - Orion 3400 25c (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXVSS3&P=ML)

or this one - Orion 4000mah 25c (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXYCB2&P=7)

that 3800mah pack you mentioned in just a little too wide

Atcom

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys!
I got a Tamiya M04 3 years ago...
Since then from stock setup i changed differentials, and other stuff to blue aluminium parts.
I also changed all of the electronics.
DX3S transmitter (2.4ghz) with the receiver i got with it.
LRP pro reverse digital speed controller.
And a Tamiya ligthly tuned 27T motor.
A 5000mah lipo battery pack with carbon fibre cover.
I have put some incredible amount of work in this car.
I change the setups all the time.

asw7576

Atcom :

you got more pics ? ... nice mod you got there.

how did you manage to put 5000mah lipo into M04 ? I want to see the battery slot too.



k bojar : thanks for your advice man !

JasonRP

iTrader: (1)

Guys,

I've got an M03 chassis I am trying to get ready to race.. I'm a bit of a newbie to racing, and I've got a couple of questions:


1) What's that cardboard motor plate included in our kits for? I mean, what does it do? Is it to add some small amount of necessary clearance? Or, does it have some thermal benefit?

2) Using the stock servo saver, set up for JR/Hitec servo, and using the "MA3" (3x10mm) screw on a JR 547 seems to strip out the servo gear threads every time.. Is this a misprint in the manual, and perhaps a longer screw should be used? Anyone else had a problem with this?

Thanks!
Jason

asw7576

1. the cardboard you mentioned, is use to protect the plastic from melting, from motor heat.

2. check what type of screw use at the servo horn you have in your car. Plastic servo horn ( economy servo ) usually use tapper screw. Expensive servo usually use metal servo horn and it uses metric screw. Longer screws like 3x12mm screw is okay to use if it needed.

Timbulb

iTrader: (2)

I think the little cardboard gasket is more for keeping crud from the transmission out of your motor, especially tiny metal filings from your pinion. Most people don't use it and I've not seen their chassis melting from not having it there.