Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Tamiya mini cooper >

Tamiya mini cooper

Like Tree288Likes

Tamiya mini cooper

Old 04-01-2016, 09:18 AM
  #27196  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
KA2AEV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Tottenville, NYC
Posts: 2,351
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Thanks Eric Seems like you just helped me to make a decision!
Now to get to the designing board!
Hope Its Quiet tonight!!!
KA2AEV is offline  
Old 04-01-2016, 10:34 AM
  #27197  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
sakadachi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 2,354
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Good job, eR1c!
sakadachi is offline  
Old 04-01-2016, 11:25 AM
  #27198  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
eR1c's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,479
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Thanks guys,

Yeah the biggest jump I found was from no fan to fan, ...using the angled design gives a slight improvement ...but also adds about 5-6grams of weight when you consider both screws and hardware. So you have to weigh whether its worth it or not to drop about 5-8* but add an additional 5grams. For me it is, as 150-155* temps are a tad higher than I'd like and I can see a minor performance drop at that temp.

I really wish we could drill a hole in the chassis and just mount fan right about the can. that would be the best solution.
eR1c is offline  
Old 04-01-2016, 11:44 AM
  #27199  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
 
OSherman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: o0O In the FishBowl O0o
Posts: 3,602
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

your driving style alone can influence temps. especially in mini when you have too much power than you know what to do with (wheelspin)
OSherman is offline  
Old 04-01-2016, 01:18 PM
  #27200  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
eR1c's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,479
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

That makes sense OSherman.
I have a bit of wheelspin if I accelerate hard out of a turn ...actually it is more like diff' spin. I usually run my motor at a lower timing also. This track just had really long straights. My typical race track is much tighter so I lower the timing ...my temps on those tracks are usually in the 135-140 range.
eR1c is offline  
Old 04-01-2016, 05:11 PM
  #27201  
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 738
Default Convert m05 to m05v2

I have a chassis and motor mount order. What else would I need to order to convert old to new? what If I just want to use square battery's?
Thanks
TeamThibault is offline  
Old 04-01-2016, 05:16 PM
  #27202  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
fredmotokx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Quebec
Posts: 162
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Hi guys, I have to question
Is their any must have hop-up when buying a M05 #58438 except the bearing kit?
Is it worth the wait to buy the new VII R (84424) kit or even buy the VII pro kit (58593), I want to be as competitive as possible.

Mini are really starting to be popular at our local track (we have on road event with only minis). We have the stock rule for electronic silver can and any brushed esc, I think lipos are allowed.
fredmotokx is offline  
Old 04-01-2016, 05:45 PM
  #27203  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,606
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Stabilizers (at least rear), oil shocks, tuned springs, TA03 ball diff, bmw cooper long body for me.
rccartips is offline  
Old 04-01-2016, 06:01 PM
  #27204  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
sakadachi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 2,354
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Oil dampers and shimmed up stock diff (MR diff) are imo must-haves for the M05.

Bearings are kind of over rated unless you are racing. I mean I use them but not necessary for bashing.
sakadachi is offline  
Old 04-01-2016, 06:07 PM
  #27205  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
fredmotokx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Quebec
Posts: 162
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by sakadachi
Oil dampers and shimmed up stock diff (MR diff) are imo must-haves for the M05.

Bearings are kind of over rated unless you are racing. I mean I use them but not necessary for bashing.
We are racing, we have A and B class of around 8 guys each.
fredmotokx is offline  
Old 04-01-2016, 06:43 PM
  #27206  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
sakadachi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 2,354
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by fredmotokx
We are racing, we have A and B class of around 8 guys each.
Nice, definitely look into all metal bearings
sakadachi is offline  
Old 04-01-2016, 09:26 PM
  #27207  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
 
OSherman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: o0O In the FishBowl O0o
Posts: 3,602
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

ZoomZoom
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya mini cooper-image.jpg  
OSherman is offline  
Old 04-02-2016, 12:04 AM
  #27208  
Tech Regular
 
antlockyer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: South Coast of England
Posts: 434
Default

Raced again last night.

Very tight technical track. In practice I was getting most of the circuit ok but really struggled on the tightest part.

First heat and I was awful, essentially crashed non stop. Felt like I had too much steering, it would crash then basically crash again as I tried to rejoin the race. Fishtail from barrier to barrier lol.

Next heat I turned down my steering on my tx and didn't put additive on the rear. Didn't have enough steering.


Next heat I lowered the car 2mm and put additive back on and added the steering back.This was a bit better and I realised that some of the crashing was due to wheelspin and losing control. I was 2 laps up on my first heat.

For most of the track I was as fast as everyone else but that one part of the track killed me nearly every lap.

Into the final and it was much the same only with more people and more carnage

Had a lot of fun, I can't help feel that switching back to the stock open diff might make the car easier to drive.
antlockyer is offline  
Old 04-02-2016, 01:21 AM
  #27209  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: UK
Posts: 163
Default

Originally Posted by TeamThibault
I have a chassis and motor mount order. What else would I need to order to convert old to new? what If I just want to use square battery's?
Thanks
That's all you need. But to get the full advantages of the v2 chassis consider the one piece arms (standard or carbon reinforced) plus the 4 droop screws.
Mini35 is offline  
Old 04-02-2016, 01:28 AM
  #27210  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: UK
Posts: 163
Default Best value

Originally Posted by fredmotokx
Hi guys, I have to question
Is their any must have hop-up when buying a M05 #58438 except the bearing kit?
Is it worth the wait to buy the new VII R (84424) kit or even buy the VII pro kit (58593), I want to be as competitive as possible.

Mini are really starting to be popular at our local track (we have on road event with only minis). We have the stock rule for electronic silver can and any brushed esc, I think lipos are allowed.
The v2 R is the best value way to get the hop ups as the dampers are the best you can get and they're expensive on their own. And the double cardan driveshafts are great and exclusive to the R at the moment. Nothing wrong with the Pro though too but just not as good value. The only must have IMHO over anything in the pro and R (and definitely over the stock kit) is a really strong servo saver), we've found even the Tamiya #51000 is not so great after a while and allows the car to wander under power, especially if you run a trick diff.
Mini35 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.