Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Tamiya mini cooper >

Tamiya mini cooper

Like Tree288Likes

Tamiya mini cooper

Old 02-20-2017, 01:13 PM
  #28696  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
 
gigaplex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Posts: 6,323
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by RevolutionM
Thanks does anyone have the bearing sizes for these googled it but can't get a physical bearing size description
A 630 bearing would be 6mm outer, 3mm inner diameter.
gigaplex is offline  
Old 02-20-2017, 09:23 PM
  #28697  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (45)
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Canada
Posts: 805
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default

Probably covered a few times. But i'll ask. Trying to convert my m05 to the version 2 chassis, do i need to get the aluminum motor mount to go with the new chassis or can i use my original plastic mount? Also do i have to change the rear chassis pieces aswell? Or can i use my originals? Thanks
Justin33 is offline  
Old 02-21-2017, 12:35 AM
  #28698  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
 
gigaplex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Posts: 6,323
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Justin33
Probably covered a few times. But i'll ask. Trying to convert my m05 to the version 2 chassis, do i need to get the aluminum motor mount to go with the new chassis or can i use my original plastic mount? Also do i have to change the rear chassis pieces aswell? Or can i use my originals? Thanks
You need the v2 motor mount as it has a different offset. You can keep using the older rear section if you want.
gigaplex is offline  
Old 02-21-2017, 04:39 AM
  #28699  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
spurcheck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Last in the "Z" main
Posts: 1,642
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Justin33
Probably covered a few times. But i'll ask. Trying to convert my m05 to the version 2 chassis, do i need to get the aluminum motor mount to go with the new chassis or can i use my original plastic mount? Also do i have to change the rear chassis pieces aswell? Or can i use my originals? Thanks
I started to do the same conversion never followed through. The v2 arms are different adding the feature to add droop screws.
spurcheck is offline  
Old 02-21-2017, 09:17 AM
  #28700  
Tech Elite
 
sosidge's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Bristol, UK
Posts: 4,439
Default

Originally Posted by Justin33
Probably covered a few times. But i'll ask. Trying to convert my m05 to the version 2 chassis, do i need to get the aluminum motor mount to go with the new chassis or can i use my original plastic mount? Also do i have to change the rear chassis pieces aswell? Or can i use my originals? Thanks
The plastic mount fits v1 and v2 chassis. The aluminium v1 mount has some clearance issues on the v2 chassis. You need to replace the rear chassis halves as although they are very similar the way they fit to the front chassis is slightly different.
sosidge is offline  
Old 02-21-2017, 11:53 AM
  #28701  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 2,313
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Who can tell me a decent starting setup for carpet, on a M05?

I have the stock wheels and tires, CVA Super Mini shocks, on stock silver springs, yeah racing 2 deg rear uprights, yeah racing steering setup and axles. And I"m running at 17.5 speed passion motor with a 5000mah 2s pack in the ver.2 frame.

The current setup is the CVA stock springs, I have the 5mm wedges on the front, as that seemed to help transfer weight and reduce the rollover tendency. The rear wheels are at a 0deg camber. Front is using the stock links, and are at 0 deg camber. Ride height isn't "set" but is what the Super Mini CVA shocks allow for.

I'd like to have useful suspension travel, and I'd like to avoid rollovers on carpet.

I have ideas of what I should do... but here I am, asking for help. :-)

My thoughts are gluing the sidewalls of the front tires. Sealing and putting grease in the diff. Finding and installing the white springs. Getting swaybars so that I still have the stiff roll axis, without getting twitchy over "stuff" on the carpet.
Nerobro is offline  
Old 02-22-2017, 06:46 AM
  #28702  
Tech Regular
 
marcos graveyar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Newtownforbes, Ireland
Posts: 253
Default

This is my setup from last weekend, may give you some basis for a start.











marcos graveyar is offline  
Old 02-22-2017, 07:45 AM
  #28703  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (45)
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Canada
Posts: 805
Trader Rating: 45 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by sosidge
The plastic mount fits v1 and v2 chassis. The aluminium v1 mount has some clearance issues on the v2 chassis. You need to replace the rear chassis halves as although they are very similar the way they fit to the front chassis is slightly different.

So main question is then.... do i need to buy the v2 aluminum mount? I heard the offset or something was different but from your info it seems like its good to go? Thanks for your help, trying to keep costs low, its mini afterall 😛
Justin33 is offline  
Old 02-22-2017, 09:05 AM
  #28704  
Tech Elite
 
sosidge's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Bristol, UK
Posts: 4,439
Default

Originally Posted by Justin33
So main question is then.... do i need to buy the v2 aluminum mount? I heard the offset or something was different but from your info it seems like its good to go? Thanks for your help, trying to keep costs low, its mini afterall 😛
I ran the plastic motor mount for a very long time using HPI Saturn 20 motors and had no problems. Aluminium is an improvement, no doubt, but I wouldn't say it was essential.
sosidge is offline  
Old 02-22-2017, 09:22 AM
  #28705  
Tech Regular
 
ruebiracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Southern Germany
Posts: 382
Default

[QUOTE=marcos graveyar;14846244]This is my setup from last weekend, may give you some basis for a start.

Hi Marcos,
thanks for sharing! Interesting car you built there.
Do I get it right, that you use 55D inserts in the 60 D M-Grips?
And why you run spacers on the uprights, to compensate for bump steer maybe?
Many similarities I found to my setup like stiffer rear springs than front, and camber setup with the Tamiya tires. Never tried really the differnt rollcentre setup in rear back to back yet.
And to not involve the rebound thread: 1 Oring in the bladder front, none in rear? Thoughts?
And do you glue the sidewalls on front, involving the first tread pattern maybe?
A lot of questions, but really would like to know your experiences about the specialities...

Br,
Matthias
ruebiracer is offline  
Old 02-22-2017, 10:47 AM
  #28706  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
sakadachi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 2,354
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Nice looking machine, marcos!!
sakadachi is offline  
Old 02-22-2017, 07:49 PM
  #28707  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 290
Default

hi guys . im looking to buy an MX5 kit for local racing.we arent allowed to mod the car at all cept tires and pinion,
i cant seem to find many wheels around for reasonable prices..where do you get yours from? i see HPI wheels for sale in different offsets. Which offset is the correct one for the mx5 shell?
Is the MX5 shell a good shell or is something like the CRX better to get for the same money?

i
Lunchie is offline  
Old 02-23-2017, 01:56 AM
  #28708  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
 
gigaplex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Posts: 6,323
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Finally cracked the shrink wrap last night on my kit that's been sitting around for a while. Here's where I got to:



I must say I'm not impressed with how much more slop the rear suspension has compared to my trusty old M03. And the steering rack... wow that's some crappy plastic. Almost snapped it in half screwing in the ball studs. I can see why everyone upgrades that straight away.
Nerobro likes this.
gigaplex is offline  
Old 02-23-2017, 07:24 AM
  #28709  
Tech Regular
 
marcos graveyar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Newtownforbes, Ireland
Posts: 253
Default

[QUOTE=ruebiracer;14846424]
Originally Posted by marcos graveyar
This is my setup from last weekend, may give you some basis for a start.

Hi Marcos,
thanks for sharing! Interesting car you built there.
Do I get it right, that you use 55D inserts in the 60 D M-Grips?
No, they are Spice inserts for 60D, the 55 refers to the thickness (5.5mm)

And why you run spacers on the uprights, to compensate for bump steer maybe?
Yes, outers for bump steer, inners for ackerman.

Many similarities I found to my setup like stiffer rear springs than front, and camber setup with the Tamiya tires. Never tried really the differnt rollcentre setup in rear back to back yet.
And to not involve the rebound thread: 1 Oring in the bladder front, none in rear? Thoughts?
I build the shocks with zero rebound when filled. The bladder will give somewhat during operation, the O ring lessens this, it's similar to adding 2mm rebound over the rear shock just a more easy and constant way to measure for me.

And do you glue the sidewalls on front, involving the first tread pattern maybe?
I only glue the sidewalls, no glue on the threaded portion of the tyre.
The carpet we use is the Black rubber backed type, the Club only purchased it at the end of last year. It is easier to lay than the old carpet and seems to have a lot less "fuzz" off of it. However it is a fair bit more abrasive, quickly rounding off the outer corner of the tyre. Club rules only allow "Kit Tyres" and M-Grips.

A lot of questions, but really would like to know your experiences about the specialities...
The biggest difference I have found is how much softer oil I now run compared to a year or two ago, used to run 40wt all round. I'm a bit of a cheapskate and haven't bought shock oil for years, Associated 25 is the lightest I have, I'd like to try a little softer some time.

We race black can motor/nimh cells/kit esc/kit diff/M-grips so racing is super tight.
marcos graveyar is offline  
Old 02-24-2017, 07:43 AM
  #28710  
Tech Regular
 
ruebiracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Southern Germany
Posts: 382
Default

[QUOTE=marcos graveyar;14847584]
Originally Posted by ruebiracer

No, they are Spice inserts for 60D, the 55 refers to the thickness (5.5mm)



Yes, outers for bump steer, inners for ackerman.



I build the shocks with zero rebound when filled. The bladder will give somewhat during operation, the O ring lessens this, it's similar to adding 2mm rebound over the rear shock just a more easy and constant way to measure for me.



I only glue the sidewalls, no glue on the threaded portion of the tyre.
The carpet we use is the Black rubber backed type, the Club only purchased it at the end of last year. It is easier to lay than the old carpet and seems to have a lot less "fuzz" off of it. However it is a fair bit more abrasive, quickly rounding off the outer corner of the tyre. Club rules only allow "Kit Tyres" and M-Grips.



The biggest difference I have found is how much softer oil I now run compared to a year or two ago, used to run 40wt all round. I'm a bit of a cheapskate and haven't bought shock oil for years, Associated 25 is the lightest I have, I'd like to try a little softer some time.

We race black can motor/nimh cells/kit esc/kit diff/M-grips so racing is super tight.
Hi Marcos,
thank you for answering all the questions. Checked my M05 yesterday, and indeed noticed a little bump steer when having bigger bump strokes. Will give the spacers a try.
For shock setup, I also went to the softer side last season, and was really pleased with it. Running BB shocks, Ive 1,3mm pistons front (like on my M06 rear), 1,0 pistons rear 300MM oil all around. Front always linked to the axle hinge pin, like you. Rear changing to track, carpet often outside, bumpy out door tracks inside for more give.
Ive to rework some parts now, after 2 seasons nearly without changing parts due to wear on the car. Sealed 3Racing gear diff gets oil change always beginning of the season. Always 20.000 oil, if the diff is settled in. No one in our races drives Spool or very tight gear diff Id tend to say, as we do not make a secret about it. Last years winner even uses 15.000 oil (only).
That is with Carson Cup machine, and 2s Lipo spec rule Zippy 4000mAh.

Br,
Matthias
ruebiracer is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.