monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

We've got one. I'm just too A) lazy and B) crippled to get there. Besides, that fuzz is from the other club we've been sharing a track with. They've got the 'real' RC carpet. We use cheap, low pile office carpeting. It's cheaper, more durable and less fuzzy.

Those Gens Ace batteries are good. Don't believe anyone who tells you that you need some kind of super 70c batt. It's a mini and 99% of the time, these will do the trick.

Jim

dirtman71

iTrader: (4)

our club only runs them bone stock with the 540 motors, even the stock friction springs with the inards pulled to free up the shaft. and no chassis mods, so I cant trim the battery mount.
Gen's ace's are great and 25c is plenty of punch for the silver can motor.

We can run any length chassis or any body, and any tire.

so now I have another question. With a stock motor and lack of brushless power, should I worry about weight? Should I run the lightest battery I can. a 2400 can make a 6 min main and is 172g, 3000 213g, 4000 244g.

Its only a 2oz difference between 2400 and 4000. is the weight going to hurt the acceleration and help the handling?

Sydewynder

If you always pit at the same table see if the other club members are ok to set the compressor close to you. Then A) Can't claim being lazy B) No need to hobble too far.

Wish the GenAce have a plug in stick pack. Trying to get rid of body bulge. (car body)

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Bone stock? How about bearings, at least?

A 2400mah lipo should last you through a 6 minute main. Two mains if you want to push it. Depending on how hard you drive, it might start dogging towards the 12 minute mark.

Are you allowed to add weight to the car? A little lead on the front end of a mini can do wonders for cornering.

As for my hairy car, I usually use a brush between rounds. Works just as well and not nearly as noisy. I just didn't brush it off after busting my car last Tuesday. My car's usually cleaner. Honest!

jim

dirtman71

iTrader: (4)

I forgot to ask about the bearings, they just said no chassis mods when I was going to trim for the battery. But if I can change or modify the shocks and tires then I realy dont think bearings are a chassis mod.

I will ask before i get one which probably wont be until the end of the month. By then I should have all my ducks in a row.

Vrooom

THat is bit odd rule, no bearing?

Bosscat

Hi
Running Tamiya 54000 shocks on my mini
Anyone know the part numbers for the individual bits :-
Shock shafts
Seals
Plastic Parts ect

Bound to break something soon want to be able to fix trackside though.

Sydewynder

54000 M-Chassis Aluminum Damper Set (4 pcs.)
Parts code

53334....... Low Friction Damper V Parts (2 pcs.)
9808169... Damper Cylinder (2 pcs.)
9808170... Piston Rod (2 pcs.)
9808171... Coil Spring (Medium, White, 2 pcs.)
9808172... Coil Spring (Hard, White, 2 pcs.)
53333....... Touring Car Tuned Spring (Short) (2 pcs.)
53572....... TRF Damper Piston (2-Hole, 4 pcs.)
53573....... TRF Damper Piston (3-Hole, 4 pcs.)
53574....... TRF Damper Rod Guide & O-ring Set (4 pcs.)
53576....... TRF Damper Oil Seal (4 pcs.)
53577....... TRF Damper Urethane Bushing (10 pcs.)
9804153... 3x2mm Spacer (10 pcs.)
9805611... 5x9mm Ball Connector (5 pcs.)
9804205... 5mm Ball Connector (4 pcs.)
9805240... 3mm O-ring (7 pcs.)
9808077... 2mm Shaft Guide (4 pcs.)
50588....... 2mm E-ring (15 pcs.)

Might have to use 54044 Ti shaft if you can't get 9808170

leinbacc

Thanks to some earlier advice on this forum I had my MO3 on the track for the first time. It ran well and was great fun. It has a gear diff (new experience for me) and is short wheelbase. i notced there is a ball diff available. Is it a worthwhile change.

Thanks, Chuck

Bosscat

Hey Sydewynder,
Great info thanks for the quick response.

sosidge

Diff is a tuning aid, so the benefit you see will depend on your driving style and the track. Stiff action gives more pull out of the corner at the expense of stability and mid-corner rotation. A very free diff can be unstable off-power.

Personally I favour the 3Racing gear diff with #5K oil at the moment, indoors and out. I don't like the "open" kit diff or psuedo-spools. M-05 ball diff builds quite free, probably a bit too free for most tracks, TA-03 ball diff builds quite tight, good for most tracks. There are many build "tricks" to get a diff that is stiffer than the intended action (grease/shims etc). I would avoid the 3Racing ball diff, not reliable.

tony gray

iTrader: (7)

I wouldn't be in a huge rush to buy replacement bits. I've yet to see anyone break anything on those shocks - ever.

I'm sure people have but it's very, very rare...

lupin_au

iTrader: (2)

Only thing I've ever seen is the bottom plastic eye get worn from hitting the ground on a bumpy track with a low car.

RossoTorro

iTrader: (1)

I replaced pistons due to wear, same with the mounting ears top and bottom.
Shockshaft guide is also something i would check, they go oval over tme.

See if the shocks have sideways movement on shaft. Due to lack of replacements i used normal pistons once from clear shocks and double o-rings in seal, could not tell any difference on track.

Most racers at my track has done same, can be just us, we race indoors carpet with high grip with 13T ezruns. Tires is foams from Xpress, 26 shore and 30 shore, free choice. I run my car with 30 front and 26 rear. Might be the tires put more load on dampers.

Also i put Paragon on mine.....

mark.davis

iTrader: (16)

i was thinking about these: http://www.hobbypartz.com/77p-sl4400-2s1p-40c-2222.html