Tamiya mini cooper
Tech Addict
I think its more that mini outdrives are steel (??) rather than some expensive poor wearing lightweight alloy
Tech Regular
on the upgraded front shock tower mount, which hole do people normally use? Right now I am using the second lowest.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (115)
Quick question-
I need the center piece that make the M03 into the MO3L version. Can I get the part number and/or a link to (where to buy) it? Thanks in advance.
I need the center piece that make the M03 into the MO3L version. Can I get the part number and/or a link to (where to buy) it? Thanks in advance.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
they are refered to as the 'd´parts tree, part number is 0005798,
that website is located in australia , but postage wont be too much on such a small light item i wouldnt imagine , shoot Tim an email , im sure he will be able to assist if you cant find one locally ..
if you need the spacer to make one a mid wheel base let me know i have several which youre welcome to for whatever the cost of postage is to you ..
Option No.1 chassis, looks like a rehash of the Colt/Atlas Mini, which was a copy of the original HPI RS4 Mini.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (115)
www.m-chassis.com ,
they are refered to as the 'd´parts tree, part number is 0005798,
that website is located in australia , but postage wont be too much on such a small light item i wouldnt imagine , shoot Tim an email , im sure he will be able to assist if you cant find one locally ..
if you need the spacer to make one a mid wheel base let me know i have several which youre welcome to for whatever the cost of postage is to you ..
they are refered to as the 'd´parts tree, part number is 0005798,
that website is located in australia , but postage wont be too much on such a small light item i wouldnt imagine , shoot Tim an email , im sure he will be able to assist if you cant find one locally ..
if you need the spacer to make one a mid wheel base let me know i have several which youre welcome to for whatever the cost of postage is to you ..
Tech Adept
Hello All , I still have a M03R kit unbuilt ( approx 1,5year old kit ) .
Thinking of building it up now. If it was to be used for club racing ( probably same class as other 2wd with a 17,5T motor ,which setup ( length ) wul dbe the best to do ?
Why ?
thanks
Greg
Thinking of building it up now. If it was to be used for club racing ( probably same class as other 2wd with a 17,5T motor ,which setup ( length ) wul dbe the best to do ?
Why ?
thanks
Greg
Tech Elite
The short does have the advantage of having more bodies that will fit. Works great on the shorter technical tracks with grip, but is no longer in favor at my track which is fairly large and is a mid to low grip asphalt track.
It's so easy to go from one to the other just build it to fit the body you like and not sweat it too much.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Posts: 3,549
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
I believe in the hands of Cal Holmes now?
And I wouldnt mind another one....
Picture request
Can someone post a picture of an Intellect 3800mAh 50C Li-Po battery on an M-05 chassis? Thanks in advance!
TFG,
To think I haven't even run the car yet. It is still sitting in the box it came in. I haven't had time to play withit or the other 4WD mini's I have.
I must find a reason to build the Active A210 and re-motor my ABC Genetic. At the moment they are just sitting in the shed with my old MO3's that I haven't run since using the MO5.
I should consider moving a couple of them on and just running the MO3 special I have been slowly building.
Although the MO5S with the new bits has grabbed my attention. I might just wait for the Hopups which will be cheaper. Has anyone translated the text. I am thinking they maybe using the new alloy 2 degree rear toe blocks in place of the 1.5 standard on the MO3R and MO5 Pro.
Later,
Calvin.
To think I haven't even run the car yet. It is still sitting in the box it came in. I haven't had time to play withit or the other 4WD mini's I have.
I must find a reason to build the Active A210 and re-motor my ABC Genetic. At the moment they are just sitting in the shed with my old MO3's that I haven't run since using the MO5.
I should consider moving a couple of them on and just running the MO3 special I have been slowly building.
Although the MO5S with the new bits has grabbed my attention. I might just wait for the Hopups which will be cheaper. Has anyone translated the text. I am thinking they maybe using the new alloy 2 degree rear toe blocks in place of the 1.5 standard on the MO3R and MO5 Pro.
Later,
Calvin.
Last edited by caltek1; 05-12-2011 at 09:04 PM. Reason: spelling
Tech Initiate
Diff 'blade' issues
Hi,
I was wondering if you guys can help.
I've bought a M-05 Pro that also has universal shafts and a M-05 Ball Differential fitted.
One of the shafts is missing a protective blade, and the one of the diff outdrives is badly notched due to the the action of the dogbone which is missing the blade.
I'm going to buy the M-05Ra reinforced diff outdrives, and I'm thinking of getting the Tamiya #53890 protective blades from the TRF415. Does anyone know if they will fit?
Cheers
Joe
I was wondering if you guys can help.
I've bought a M-05 Pro that also has universal shafts and a M-05 Ball Differential fitted.
One of the shafts is missing a protective blade, and the one of the diff outdrives is badly notched due to the the action of the dogbone which is missing the blade.
I'm going to buy the M-05Ra reinforced diff outdrives, and I'm thinking of getting the Tamiya #53890 protective blades from the TRF415. Does anyone know if they will fit?
Cheers
Joe
Joe,
If you use the MO5Ra steel diff outdrives, you don't fit the blade. These are better wearing than the standard alloy outdrives and will last a while before notching. This occurs when you run a very tight ball diff.
That is what I was using on mine until I changed to the oil gear diff.
Calvin.
If you use the MO5Ra steel diff outdrives, you don't fit the blade. These are better wearing than the standard alloy outdrives and will last a while before notching. This occurs when you run a very tight ball diff.
That is what I was using on mine until I changed to the oil gear diff.
Calvin.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Joe,
If you use the MO5Ra steel diff outdrives, you don't fit the blade. These are better wearing than the standard alloy outdrives and will last a while before notching. This occurs when you run a very tight ball diff.
That is what I was using on mine until I changed to the oil gear diff.
Calvin.
If you use the MO5Ra steel diff outdrives, you don't fit the blade. These are better wearing than the standard alloy outdrives and will last a while before notching. This occurs when you run a very tight ball diff.
That is what I was using on mine until I changed to the oil gear diff.
Calvin.
Modified 3Racing with Tamiya TAO3 ball diff gear. You can use the 3Racing ball diff gear and or the MO5 ball diff gear.
I am using Kyosho 500 000 wt silicon diff oil, which provides good results. others are using 300 000 wt oil with good results also.
The Spice mini oil gear diff has not been released as yet, but is due end of May beginning of Jun. That is what I was advised by Champ.
Feral batteries has the conversion kit for 3Racing diff for the mini, however will only fit the MO5.
I have attached a picture from his site.
Calvin.
I am using Kyosho 500 000 wt silicon diff oil, which provides good results. others are using 300 000 wt oil with good results also.
The Spice mini oil gear diff has not been released as yet, but is due end of May beginning of Jun. That is what I was advised by Champ.
Feral batteries has the conversion kit for 3Racing diff for the mini, however will only fit the MO5.
I have attached a picture from his site.
Calvin.