288LikesTamiya mini cooper
06-17-2012, 01:44 PM
Tech Regular
The front end is Tamiya FF01. Rear is Associated 10L. Chassis is 3mm G10. Don
06-17-2012, 01:52 PM
RC-Mini is THE place for all the good, common sense setup and prep, but here are a few tips.
Diff: Anti Wear grease (Tamiya, 3 Racing, etc) is your best choice. A little dab will do ya!
Gears: Nothing or a little squirt of silicone spray.
Bearings: Spray them out with brake/electronics/solvent of choice. Dry them and give them a single drop of light oil. Doesn't matter if it was made for sewing machines or cars, as long as it's a light oil.
Axles? Nah.
Diff: Anti Wear grease (Tamiya, 3 Racing, etc) is your best choice. A little dab will do ya!
Gears: Nothing or a little squirt of silicone spray.
Bearings: Spray them out with brake/electronics/solvent of choice. Dry them and give them a single drop of light oil. Doesn't matter if it was made for sewing machines or cars, as long as it's a light oil.
Axles? Nah.
06-17-2012, 01:54 PM
Wow. Too darn cool!
06-17-2012, 06:06 PM
Tech Regular
Thanks!
06-25-2012, 06:04 PM
What is the best tcs legal battery. Thanks for the help.
06-25-2012, 07:07 PM
Have any of you guys ever seen a shorty lipo stick pack? What I'm looking for will still need to fit an m03/05, but I'm looking for something shorter to better center the weight in a car. Maybe something equivalent to the LiFe pack Tamiya markets, but with voltage suited more to race car than a Barbie car.
06-26-2012, 02:37 AM
Granpa,
Found out that by running Tamiya S grip tyres with soft springs and low weight oil made my MO5L work really well on a high grip track, in a high temperature environment. The best idea was to run new tyres up front and old worn tyres on the rear. I used red springs up front and yellow springs on the rear, with the front shocks laid fully over and a 2-3mm ride height. Track was super smooth.
Mind you I will post pictures up later, however my car had been cut and shut to meet a 1200 weight car limit and use large capacity batteries.
I certainly learned a lot from the other drivers at the meeting and know I can improve more. I qualified fifth and finished seventh overall in the A final.
Pretty happy with this result.
Later,
Calvin.
Found out that by running Tamiya S grip tyres with soft springs and low weight oil made my MO5L work really well on a high grip track, in a high temperature environment. The best idea was to run new tyres up front and old worn tyres on the rear. I used red springs up front and yellow springs on the rear, with the front shocks laid fully over and a 2-3mm ride height. Track was super smooth.
Mind you I will post pictures up later, however my car had been cut and shut to meet a 1200 weight car limit and use large capacity batteries.
I certainly learned a lot from the other drivers at the meeting and know I can improve more. I qualified fifth and finished seventh overall in the A final.
Pretty happy with this result.
Later,
Calvin.
06-26-2012, 01:17 PM
Pretty much what we're finding here also. The softer set ups seem to work better on all types of surfaces. I started playing with ultra soft set ups about 3 years ago to much skepticsm. My poor driving skills concealed the superiority of the soft set ups. But the guys here are pretty savvy and soon caught on that the "old" guy is going a lot faster now, but his driving is just as bad as ever.
Had to be the car, cause it sure wasn't the driving.
Had to be the car, cause it sure wasn't the driving.
06-26-2012, 04:49 PM
How do the three diffrent tire compound stack up. Are the radials the softest or the hardest.
06-27-2012, 04:57 AM
Granpa,
Found out that by running Tamiya S grip tyres with soft springs and low weight oil made my MO5L work really well on a high grip track, in a high temperature environment. The best idea was to run new tyres up front and old worn tyres on the rear. I used red springs up front and yellow springs on the rear, with the front shocks laid fully over and a 2-3mm ride height. Track was super smooth.
Mind you I will post pictures up later, however my car had been cut and shut to meet a 1200 weight car limit and use large capacity batteries.
I certainly learned a lot from the other drivers at the meeting and know I can improve more. I qualified fifth and finished seventh overall in the A final.
Pretty happy with this result.
Later,
Calvin.
Found out that by running Tamiya S grip tyres with soft springs and low weight oil made my MO5L work really well on a high grip track, in a high temperature environment. The best idea was to run new tyres up front and old worn tyres on the rear. I used red springs up front and yellow springs on the rear, with the front shocks laid fully over and a 2-3mm ride height. Track was super smooth.
Mind you I will post pictures up later, however my car had been cut and shut to meet a 1200 weight car limit and use large capacity batteries.
I certainly learned a lot from the other drivers at the meeting and know I can improve more. I qualified fifth and finished seventh overall in the A final.
Pretty happy with this result.
Later,
Calvin.
06-27-2012, 05:51 AM
k bojar,
The majority of the cars I was racing against were setup as MO5M cars using the Tamiya Swift body shell. So yes the softer set up will work on the medium and the short wheel based cars. I have a preference for LWB mini's. I did try the new JCW mini shell and found it was not as stable as the 2006 LWB mini cooper shell. This may have been due to wrong tyres early in my testing. However the LWB Copper body seemed to make the car more stable and easier for me to drive hard. My car did not traction roll at all with the setup I used. I also used V2 Tyre Gripper traction compound front and rear , early on and then used nil for the two finals. Two warm laps were enough for the tyres to work with great grip.
BTW,
I was using the new Ride mini springs which come as a matched pair. These were fitted to TRF shocks with three hole pistons and 35 wt oil front and rear. Next time I may try softer rear oil.
Regards,
Calvin.
The majority of the cars I was racing against were setup as MO5M cars using the Tamiya Swift body shell. So yes the softer set up will work on the medium and the short wheel based cars. I have a preference for LWB mini's. I did try the new JCW mini shell and found it was not as stable as the 2006 LWB mini cooper shell. This may have been due to wrong tyres early in my testing. However the LWB Copper body seemed to make the car more stable and easier for me to drive hard. My car did not traction roll at all with the setup I used. I also used V2 Tyre Gripper traction compound front and rear , early on and then used nil for the two finals. Two warm laps were enough for the tyres to work with great grip.
BTW,
I was using the new Ride mini springs which come as a matched pair. These were fitted to TRF shocks with three hole pistons and 35 wt oil front and rear. Next time I may try softer rear oil.
Regards,
Calvin.
06-27-2012, 06:07 AM
Some photos of my mini and the part of the track.
06-28-2012, 10:12 AM
thanks.. i'll give it a shot this weekend - supposed to get up around 100* here, and i'm sure track temps will be will over that
I'm actually giving the crx a shot
I'm actually giving the crx a shot
06-28-2012, 10:12 AM
thanks.. i'll give it a shot this weekend - supposed to get up around 100* here, and i'm sure track temps will be will over that
I'm actually giving the crx a shot
I'm actually giving the crx a shot
06-28-2012, 02:43 PM
so im putting together my mini and looking at the stock esc teu-104bk and it says i need a receiver with a bec to power the servo that's the 1st ive heard of a receiver having a bec.
so anyways do i need a castle bec ? or can i just run a cap on the receiver ? sorry i did search im sure this has been asked 
so anyways do i need a castle bec ? or can i just run a cap on the receiver ? sorry i did search im sure this has been asked