U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing
#9721
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
I'm certain that what I'm about to ask is burried somewhere deep inside this wealth of information, but I'm hoping someone out there could give me a quick answer. I'm going to run my Xray T2 in VTA with a HPI 1965 Shelby GT350 body, but I'm not sure which rear wheels to use to keep them inside the fenders. Should I run 26mm 0 offset wheels or will the 31mm 6 offset wheels stay nicely tucked inside?
Thanks in advance for any help!
Thanks in advance for any help!
#9722
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
here are some more as well as my favorite that Ive done...this is my 1st on my TC3
http://www.nashrcracer.com/coppermin...0033&pos=-1090
as you can see the wheels/tires work just fine with the Stang Body
http://www.nashrcracer.com/coppermin...0033&pos=-1090
as you can see the wheels/tires work just fine with the Stang Body
#9724
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Not sure I would call that a cheater wing! Quite a few posts & many pages ago, there was talk of making a spoiler for the mustang as it didn't come with one, it only had the wing. I believe the reply was that if it was under 3/8 of an inch high off the rear trunk, then it was okay.
#9725
Tech Champion
iTrader: (261)
I'm certain that what I'm about to ask is burried somewhere deep inside this wealth of information, but I'm hoping someone out there could give me a quick answer. I'm going to run my Xray T2 in VTA with a HPI 1965 Shelby GT350 body, but I'm not sure which rear wheels to use to keep them inside the fenders. Should I run 26mm 0 offset wheels or will the 31mm 6 offset wheels stay nicely tucked inside?
Thanks in advance for any help!
Thanks in advance for any help!
As was mentioned before, you have to be careful/accurate mounting your body. Take your time and you'll be fine.
The other PERCEIVED "weakness" of the Mustang body is the rear cap that must be attached to the body (same for the HPI 'Cuda body). I've had GREAT success with these using blue painter's tape on the outside to tack the cap in place, then lay in some fiberglass drywall repair mesh (is somewhat self-adhesive so it lays in very nicely) and smear ShooGoo on it. I've NEVER had one start to come loose. Just be careful with the ShooGoo because if you start moving the mesh around as you're spreading it it will remove paint.
#9726
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
Another driver figure idea...
I bought this crazy looking tamya driver figure a few months back when my LHS was discounting a bunch of parts.
Turns out it's the driver figure sprue from the Tamiya's Wild Willy kit.
RC L parts: 58242
#0115256
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...uct-id=0115256
When i get the opportunity i'll paint it up and mount it. I think the driver's head may be a little out of scale, but we drive these things from a driver's stand several feet away. So i'm pretty sure the scale police won't be an issue.
I bought this crazy looking tamya driver figure a few months back when my LHS was discounting a bunch of parts.
Turns out it's the driver figure sprue from the Tamiya's Wild Willy kit.
RC L parts: 58242
#0115256
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...uct-id=0115256
When i get the opportunity i'll paint it up and mount it. I think the driver's head may be a little out of scale, but we drive these things from a driver's stand several feet away. So i'm pretty sure the scale police won't be an issue.
#9728
Company Representative
We will also be giving our popular Legacy Lifetime Program its own web page; right now it is somewhat difficult to interpret. When we get this designed, it will be much easier to decide (and understand) how you can upgrade your obsolete Novak products; we will be allowing (for the first time) upgrading to either an esc or BL motor for your returned esc or BL motor----no more requirement of an esc for an esc. This should simplify upgrades enormously. These exclusive after-warranty programs are definitely appreciated by our customers and are only possible because we manufacture, and re-manufacture, our electronics here in Irvine.
#9729
Company Representative
#9730
Company Representative
Considering that based on your posts and you bought a xray t3 11 it appears money is real tight.
Let me help you out.
http://www.speedpassion.net/us/produ...?p=12280&c=ESC
http://www.shopatron.com/products/pr...4.0.0.0?pp=10&
All under $60.00. I'm sure you spent that on VTA body and tires. I would think spending that on a ESC wouldn't be too painful and when you move up you can use your tekin.
Let me help you out.
http://www.speedpassion.net/us/produ...?p=12280&c=ESC
http://www.shopatron.com/products/pr...4.0.0.0?pp=10&
All under $60.00. I'm sure you spent that on VTA body and tires. I would think spending that on a ESC wouldn't be too painful and when you move up you can use your tekin.
#9731
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
I hate to be this way...but DAMN I LOVE ME SOME VTA!!!!!!!!.....Rob King and the USVTA are dead on with the current rules.....sorry I doubt it at all....my bag..... better flow and smooooooth as silk....plus the price and long run times under and below 100 deg for esc and motor....it will last forever....nice job USVTA....
just FYI...Im running Havok Pro with a 25.5 stator that I put in my 21.5 Novak Ballistic motor...4.2 FDR has more infield punch and 4.0 is more straight speed...timming on motor is center...PERFECT!!!
hope more come on board...cya soon
just FYI...Im running Havok Pro with a 25.5 stator that I put in my 21.5 Novak Ballistic motor...4.2 FDR has more infield punch and 4.0 is more straight speed...timming on motor is center...PERFECT!!!
hope more come on board...cya soon
#9732
I hate to be this way...but DAMN I LOVE ME SOME VTA!!!!!!!!.....Rob King and the USVTA are dead on with the current rules.....sorry I doubt it at all....my bag..... better flow and smooooooth as silk....plus the price and long run times under and below 100 deg for esc and motor....it will last forever....nice job USVTA....
just FYI...Im running Havok Pro with a 25.5 stator that I put in my 21.5 Novak Ballistic motor...4.2 FDR has more infield punch and 4.0 is more straight speed...timming on motor is center...PERFECT!!!
hope more come on board...cya soon
just FYI...Im running Havok Pro with a 25.5 stator that I put in my 21.5 Novak Ballistic motor...4.2 FDR has more infield punch and 4.0 is more straight speed...timming on motor is center...PERFECT!!!
hope more come on board...cya soon
You nailed it! I can gear it up all the way to 3.5 and it just keeps getting faster on the straight but more mushy in the infield. It doesn't seem to affect temps much. 4.0 and up makes it more snappy in the infield but at the expense of straight speed. I don't even take out my temp gauge any more. I just gear if for the track.
I love the 25.5. I'm not sure how you could make an electric motor system more user friendly.
#9735
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
Myron,
You nailed it! I can gear it up all the way to 3.5 and it just keeps getting faster on the straight but more mushy in the infield. It doesn't seem to affect temps much. 4.0 and up makes it more snappy in the infield but at the expense of straight speed. I don't even take out my temp gauge any more. I just gear if for the track.
I love the 25.5. I'm not sure how you could make an electric motor system more user friendly.
You nailed it! I can gear it up all the way to 3.5 and it just keeps getting faster on the straight but more mushy in the infield. It doesn't seem to affect temps much. 4.0 and up makes it more snappy in the infield but at the expense of straight speed. I don't even take out my temp gauge any more. I just gear if for the track.
I love the 25.5. I'm not sure how you could make an electric motor system more user friendly.
my wifey tells me all the time...lol