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Old 11-23-2010, 08:16 PM
  #9721  
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Originally Posted by RMI
I'm certain that what I'm about to ask is burried somewhere deep inside this wealth of information, but I'm hoping someone out there could give me a quick answer. I'm going to run my Xray T2 in VTA with a HPI 1965 Shelby GT350 body, but I'm not sure which rear wheels to use to keep them inside the fenders. Should I run 26mm 0 offset wheels or will the 31mm 6 offset wheels stay nicely tucked inside?

Thanks in advance for any help!
You are right the HPI Mustangs call for 26mm in the rear. However the rule is 31's for the rear. Just take some care in placing the body post holes and the 31's will work fine.
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Old 11-23-2010, 08:23 PM
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here are some more as well as my favorite that Ive done...this is my 1st on my TC3

http://www.nashrcracer.com/coppermin...0033&pos=-1090

as you can see the wheels/tires work just fine with the Stang Body
Attached Thumbnails U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing-normal_darkside%2520racing%2520004.jpg   U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing-normal_darkside%2520racing%2520007.jpg  
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Old 11-23-2010, 09:04 PM
  #9723  
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and check out that cheater wing!
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Old 11-24-2010, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by shaggy11
and check out that cheater wing!

Not sure I would call that a cheater wing! Quite a few posts & many pages ago, there was talk of making a spoiler for the mustang as it didn't come with one, it only had the wing. I believe the reply was that if it was under 3/8 of an inch high off the rear trunk, then it was okay.
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Old 11-24-2010, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by RMI
I'm certain that what I'm about to ask is burried somewhere deep inside this wealth of information, but I'm hoping someone out there could give me a quick answer. I'm going to run my Xray T2 in VTA with a HPI 1965 Shelby GT350 body, but I'm not sure which rear wheels to use to keep them inside the fenders. Should I run 26mm 0 offset wheels or will the 31mm 6 offset wheels stay nicely tucked inside?

Thanks in advance for any help!
Works great with the 31mm wheels out back!! In fact the Mustang looks great and runs great (but not strictly legal) with 31's all around!! It is the only body that these tires/wheels REALLY completely fill the wheel wells on.

As was mentioned before, you have to be careful/accurate mounting your body. Take your time and you'll be fine.

The other PERCEIVED "weakness" of the Mustang body is the rear cap that must be attached to the body (same for the HPI 'Cuda body). I've had GREAT success with these using blue painter's tape on the outside to tack the cap in place, then lay in some fiberglass drywall repair mesh (is somewhat self-adhesive so it lays in very nicely) and smear ShooGoo on it. I've NEVER had one start to come loose. Just be careful with the ShooGoo because if you start moving the mesh around as you're spreading it it will remove paint.
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Old 11-24-2010, 07:56 AM
  #9726  
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Another driver figure idea...

I bought this crazy looking tamya driver figure a few months back when my LHS was discounting a bunch of parts.

Turns out it's the driver figure sprue from the Tamiya's Wild Willy kit.

RC L parts: 58242
#0115256

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...uct-id=0115256

When i get the opportunity i'll paint it up and mount it. I think the driver's head may be a little out of scale, but we drive these things from a driver's stand several feet away. So i'm pretty sure the scale police won't be an issue.
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Old 11-24-2010, 08:50 AM
  #9727  
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big HEAD...lol
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Old 11-24-2010, 09:41 AM
  #9728  
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Originally Posted by DARKSIDE
what about the GTB2...can I send my GTB and get the 2, for 59.00?

also he is my TC5 Havok 25.5
Our ESC Trade-In Program is easier to read now----it is clearer that when you return GTBs, Havoc Pros or SLYDrs you can either replace or exchange within this group for 59.00. We will add the GTB 2s to our exchange program sometime early next year; We haven't even started shipping them yet....

We will also be giving our popular Legacy Lifetime Program its own web page; right now it is somewhat difficult to interpret. When we get this designed, it will be much easier to decide (and understand) how you can upgrade your obsolete Novak products; we will be allowing (for the first time) upgrading to either an esc or BL motor for your returned esc or BL motor----no more requirement of an esc for an esc. This should simplify upgrades enormously. These exclusive after-warranty programs are definitely appreciated by our customers and are only possible because we manufacture, and re-manufacture, our electronics here in Irvine.
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Old 11-24-2010, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by DARKSIDE
hey Novak 2, Ive had a couple of guys locally having issues with the Havok cutting off after a few minutes of running...temps are around 80-100 on motor and 80 on esc....
Anyone experiencing problems needs to contact [email protected] for assistance. We are away for the Holiday, but will be back in the office Monday. Are these guys running Glitch Busters with 2.4 receivers?
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Old 11-24-2010, 10:00 AM
  #9730  
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Originally Posted by H.N.
Considering that based on your posts and you bought a xray t3 11 it appears money is real tight.

Let me help you out.

http://www.speedpassion.net/us/produ...?p=12280&c=ESC

http://www.shopatron.com/products/pr...4.0.0.0?pp=10&


All under $60.00. I'm sure you spent that on VTA body and tires. I would think spending that on a ESC wouldn't be too painful and when you move up you can use your tekin.
If a customer has difficulty in locating and purchasing a new esc, what is the chance of getting their esc quickly replaced under warranty?
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Old 11-24-2010, 10:10 PM
  #9731  
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I hate to be this way...but DAMN I LOVE ME SOME VTA!!!!!!!!.....Rob King and the USVTA are dead on with the current rules.....sorry I doubt it at all....my bag..... better flow and smooooooth as silk....plus the price and long run times under and below 100 deg for esc and motor....it will last forever....nice job USVTA....

just FYI...Im running Havok Pro with a 25.5 stator that I put in my 21.5 Novak Ballistic motor...4.2 FDR has more infield punch and 4.0 is more straight speed...timming on motor is center...PERFECT!!!

hope more come on board...cya soon
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Old 11-25-2010, 03:47 AM
  #9732  
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Originally Posted by DARKSIDE
I hate to be this way...but DAMN I LOVE ME SOME VTA!!!!!!!!.....Rob King and the USVTA are dead on with the current rules.....sorry I doubt it at all....my bag..... better flow and smooooooth as silk....plus the price and long run times under and below 100 deg for esc and motor....it will last forever....nice job USVTA....

just FYI...Im running Havok Pro with a 25.5 stator that I put in my 21.5 Novak Ballistic motor...4.2 FDR has more infield punch and 4.0 is more straight speed...timming on motor is center...PERFECT!!!

hope more come on board...cya soon
Myron,

You nailed it! I can gear it up all the way to 3.5 and it just keeps getting faster on the straight but more mushy in the infield. It doesn't seem to affect temps much. 4.0 and up makes it more snappy in the infield but at the expense of straight speed. I don't even take out my temp gauge any more. I just gear if for the track.

I love the 25.5. I'm not sure how you could make an electric motor system more user friendly.
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Old 11-25-2010, 05:17 AM
  #9733  
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Originally Posted by woodys3b
I love the 25.5. I'm not sure how you could make an electric motor system more user friendly.

It installs itself!!!

In all honesty though, i love the 25.5. I actually feel like i'm DRIVING the car instead of holding on for dear life. It's fun trying different lines to set up a pass or riding someone's bumper to pick up a draft.
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Old 11-25-2010, 05:46 AM
  #9734  
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Originally Posted by DARKSIDE
big HEAD...lol
Well now that's something Pejota's never heard before !!!!
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Old 11-25-2010, 07:55 AM
  #9735  
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Originally Posted by woodys3b
Myron,

You nailed it! I can gear it up all the way to 3.5 and it just keeps getting faster on the straight but more mushy in the infield. It doesn't seem to affect temps much. 4.0 and up makes it more snappy in the infield but at the expense of straight speed. I don't even take out my temp gauge any more. I just gear if for the track.

I love the 25.5. I'm not sure how you could make an electric motor system more user friendly.
thats the truth...I took out the drag brake and its spot on in everyway....Im very impressed.....I tried the 25.5 before the USVTA made it official, but with a LRP SPX...and it just didnt have the same feel...but with the Havok Pro...man what a difference...thanks to you too Eric W. and HH

Originally Posted by pejota
It installs itself!!!

In all honesty though, i love the 25.5. I actually feel like i'm DRIVING the car instead of holding on for dear life. It's fun trying different lines to set up a pass or riding someone's bumper to pick up a draft.
thats how it truly feels, it holds itself on the track....

Originally Posted by Evoracer
Well now that's something Pejota's never heard before !!!!
my wifey tells me all the time...lol
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