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Old 01-03-2008, 05:37 PM   #1
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Exclamation U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing

2011 Rules Package:





Rules updated 2.3.11. All rules subject to change and expansion should need arise.



Trans Am Class Rules and Specifications

NEW RULES EFFECTIVE SEPTEMBER 1, 2010. Click here for new rules pdf file. Rules updated 1.11.11. All rules subject to change and expansion should need arise. It is highly suggested that all indoor carpet tracks use these rules exactly as they are written with no deviations. Please try to keep it consistent and fair for everyone who may attend your track from around the country.


Body Specifications:
Late '60s to early '70s American pony car Vintage Trans-Am bodies only.

Bolink part numbers:
BL2262 '68 Chevrolet Camaro
BL2263 '65 Ford Mustang

HPI part numbers:
17510 - 1970 Plymouth AAR 'Cuda
17519 - 1966 Ford Mustang GT
17508 - 1965 Ford Shelby GT-350
7494 - 1968 Chevrolet Camaro
17531 - 1969 CHEVROLET CAMARO Z28 BODY
104926 1966 FORD MUSTANG GT COUPE BODY

Parma part numbers:
10143 - 1969 Z28 Camaro
10141 - 1970 Boss Mustang
10113 - 1970 'Cuda

Pegasus Hobbies part numbers:
PGH4001 - 1970 Camaro SS
PGH4002 - 1970 'Cuda
PGH4003 - 1970 Mustang

Body provided deck lid spoilers allowed (not wings). No additional skirts or raised/extended wings or air control surfaces allowed. Body must be trimmed at body trim lines. Full rear bumper required. It is highly preferred that bodies are detailed in race type livery in period-correct paint schemes. Fluorescent colors, wild graphics, chromes and non-period correct paint schemes are frowned upon. All cars must have a number on the hood, both doors and trunk lid. Wheel covers of any type are NOT allowed. All cars must include a driver figure consisting of at least a head and shoulders.

Driver figure part numbers (ANY suitable 1/10 driver figure is legal-these are readily available examples):

HPI
#104815 INNER BODY SET FOR DT-1 TRUCK BODY

Associated
6180 Driver, unpainted, 1:10

McAllister
#423 Stock Interior and Driver
#419 SPRINT CAR DRIVER


Tire & Wheel Specifications:
The only tires allowed are HPI tire part #4793 front and #4797 rear, using stock tire inserts provided with tire and any HPI Vintage wheels designed to fit these tires. All other tires and/or part numbers are illegal. Five or Eight spoke wheels available in various colors. 0mm offset front wheels and 6mm offset rear wheels are intended for 26mm width fronts and 31mm width rear tires. 8-spoke Vintage wheels from #3805 through #3814, 5-spoke Vintage wheels from #3815 through #3822 and Vintage stock car wheels from #3854 through #3860, Vintage Wheel CC Type #33472 and #33473, Vintage Wheel DTP Type #33474 and #33475 are all legal wheels.

Grinding of tire tread is NOT permitted. Sanding of mold seam to remove seam is allowed. HPI Vintage Slicks and HPI Vintage Performance Tires are not allowed. Tire traction compounds are at the discretion of the track. No other altering, changing or softening of the tire is allowed. No "double stuffing" of foam inserts allowed—only single stock vintage tire inserts are allowed.


Chassis Specification:
Four Wheel Drive touring car chassis only. Any era or brand 4wd chassis is allowed. An Excel spreadsheet gear ratio and final drive ratio calculator for most touring car chassis is available here.


Motor Specifications:
25.5 brushless with 2C LiPo: Novak SS25.5 Pro brushless motor (pn:3425V) or Ballistic 25.5 (pn:3625V- stator only pn:S6625) ONLY combined with any ROAR-approved hard-cased 2C 7.4v LiPo pack up to and including 5000 mAh capacity. Novak motors are the ONLY motor allowed at this time. All house track rules regarding LiPo usage apply. Only physical motor timing advance is allowed, however Ballistic motors must not be advanced beyond the timing range sticker. 12.3 mm rotor diameter only (no "tuning" rotors are allowed, only stock Novak rotors allowed). Using ceramic bearings in the motor makes you a dork.


Approved ESCs:
Novak-
GTB 2 Sportsman Racing Brushless ESC (#1709)
GTB series part numbers:1710, 1711
Havoc series part numbers:1732, 1733, 1735
Slyder part number: 1712
XBR (DISCONTINUED) part number:1720

LRP
A.i. Brushless Reverse part numbers: LRP80100, LRP80150

SPEED PASSION
Cirtix Stock Club Race ESC part number: 12280


Battery Specifications:
2 cell ROAR-approved LiPo hard cased, 5000 mAh limit


Ride Height Specification:
Minimum ride height is 5mm.


Weight Specification:
Minimum 1550g in race-ready trim


Race Specification:
- 5 minute qualifiers
- 8 minute mains
- Absolutely NO IFMAR-type starts. All heats and mains should be straight-up starts, with random sorts for each heat. Non random sorts should shuffle starting order for each heat.


Optional Main Variations:
- 12-20 car A-mains, depending on car counts.
- Invert qualifying order based on random hat pull (top 6-10 cars).
- "LeMans" type starts where all cars are lined up on an angle to the racing line in order.
- Run track in reverse rotation for mains.
- Rolling starts


MOST IMPORTANTLY: If it's not in the rules, and does not encompass the spirit of slower, controlled racing with realistic looking cars, consider it illegal. This is called the "Spirit of VTA" Rule. The class is based on slower, equal playing field competition with less traction, minimal aerodynamic aids and mostly older carpet racing technology. The final objective is close, fair, wheel-to-wheel racing for all. All decisions of the race promoter or track owner are final.






USGT Class Rules and Specifications


Chassis Specification:
Any 1/10 4wd or Fwd sedan with 4 wheel independent suspension.

Weight Specification:
4wd 1450g weight Fwd 1400g weight

Body Specifications:
Any 190mm or 200mm body. Body can be any body that is NOT on the ROAR T2 body list. NO Trucks
Any "SCALE" molded wings can be used. Lexan wings 10mm maximum height / side dam height
Scale type race liveries encouraged

Tire & Wheel Specifications:
Tires-Any treaded (non slick) rubber tire available 24 or 26mm, maximum non-sale street price of $12/pair at a USA retailer. Must used a non-molded (ex. open cell foam) insert or no insert. Grinding of tire tread is NOT permitted. Sanding of mold seam to remove seam is allowed.
Wheels- Any 24 or 26mm spoke (non-dish) type wheel

Ride Height Specification:
Minimum ride height is 5mm.

Motor Specifications:
21.5 + 2s lipo batteries No tuning rotors, must use OEM rotor 12.3-12.5mm

Approved ESCs:
ESC ROAR approved spec software or USVTA list

Race Specification:
6 minute qualifiers
8 minute mains

Battery Specifications:
ROAR approved hard case batteries
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Last edited by squarehead; 02-03-2011 at 11:19 AM.
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Old 01-03-2008, 05:41 PM   #2
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NICE!

Nice looking set of rules too...
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Old 01-03-2008, 06:15 PM   #3
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Good luck. Tried doing that hear a couple years ago, before the HPI bodies even came out, and only about 4 people bought bodies. Only lasted a few weeks before all intrest was lost
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Old 01-03-2008, 06:19 PM   #4
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I can almost guarantee that if you created an allowance for 19T spec motors MCRC would join your league. Everything else is in 100% alignment other than we've adopted a more aggressive "success ballast" formula than you guys are using and we HAVE adopted a minimum weight at 1525g which is ROAR/IFMAR's minimum for 6-cell rubber TC. This allows "obsolete" chassis to be suddenly VERY competitive with the latest offerings from X-ray, et al.

We have spec'd 27T/Stock as an entry class here and 19T Spec as the "Pro" class. We've been averaging about 12 cars per race (as many as 15) which is UNBELIEVABLE in a small club out in the middle of nowhere.

I know it's your league, but there's GOT to be room for different power/performance levels, right?
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Old 01-03-2008, 06:42 PM   #5
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We have roughly calculated that there are already 40-50 T/A cars built or being built between Trackside and The Track at Winthrop Harbor, and the number is steadily growing. Beginners and experienced racers alike, are jumping in at a very rapid rate. The following has been attributed to a very simple formula. We have competitive cars that are 9 and 10 years old, as well as relatively new cars.

Right now, we definitely DON'T want to split the cars up into fast and slow classes, as the main appeal to this class is the speeds and the ultra competitive racing that it allows for all experience levels. There are plenty of other classes to go fast in, and that's not what this class is about right now. We all firmly believe that splitting things up only dilutes the strength of the original concept, and none of us want that. There are 19T and 13.5 classes for rubber tires and foam tires that most of us race in anyway. There is no need to make other classes smaller, when they all struggle for car counts anyway. Wouldn't you rather race against 20 cars in a main than split them up into 2 classes? Most of us would.


Our only real expansion discussion taking place right now is how to adapt brushless into this class. Some of us believe that we may follow ROAR's lead in this, or just test the 17.5 ourselves, with the potential for 21.5 on Lipos. It complicates the rules a bit, and if one has a big advantage over other formulas, it either kills the class or forces guys to go buy more stuff—which is 100% against the intent of this class.

This is real grassroots R/C racing. Wheel to wheel and bumper to bumper for laps on end, with multiple cars dicing back and forth for position. It's consistently been the biggest crowd-gathering class at any track where it is raced.


We're always open to options, but all of us currently involved do agree on one thing—K.I.S.S. The more complicated the formula becomes, the less inviting it is to all racers.



doug
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Old 01-03-2008, 06:53 PM   #6
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The 19T cars are anything BUT fast but remain challenging to drive with the no aero.

I am absolutely certain that for next year we'd create a "US Series" class here that did away with weight handicaps IF the 19T (or 10.5BL) option were available. The 27T/17.5, though, will be a MUCH harder sell for our more experienced racers. Maybe not impossible, but much harder...it's hard to justify your "elite" class (I would see this as the US Series class) being slower and easier than the existing HIGHLY supported version.

A half-dozen of us did extensive testing from last spring through the summer, trying several motor and cell count combinations before settling on the 4-cell format with both 27T and 19T. For us we've driven both (well, more than both, but you get my meaning) and our preference was the 19T.

Good luck though.
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Old 01-03-2008, 06:54 PM   #7
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However, I could also see an alternative motor spec for outdoor asphalt racing, being 19T or 10.5, or whatever the equivalent becomes. I think anything larger than an indoor track might necessitate a bit more HP.
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Old 01-03-2008, 06:59 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
The 19T cars are anything BUT fast but remain challenging to drive with the no aero.
I wholeheartedly agree that outdoors on a larger track, this would be something that would need to be a motor of choice. I would think that indoors/carpet = 27t/17.5 and outdoors/asphalt = 19t/10.5 would be a very reasonable rules base for motors. Outside on a larger track, the 27t on 4-cells would not be very much fun.

Great input.
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Old 01-03-2008, 07:00 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed View Post
I wholeheartedly agree that outdoors on a larger track, this would be something that would need to be a motor of choice. I would think that indoors/carpet = 27t/17.5 and outdoors/asphalt = 19t/10.5 would be a very reasonable rules base for motors. Outside on a larger track, the 27t on 4-cells would not be very much fun.

Great input.
We're running on an indoor/carpet 40' X 65', fairly technical layouts.
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Old 01-03-2008, 07:02 PM   #10
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It is another hard sell for a lot of socalled 'serious' racers, but man they are great fun for local races..and IF you are racing someplace where your in front of spectators THEY LOVE the 'vintage' look and feel.

I've been wanting to get something like this going for year (We actually ran something similar w/ PAN cars on both the OVAL and Road Courses back around 12-14 years ago and it was using the Maubuchi Motors... AWESOME FUN.

I like that you've gone with a really slow combination for the deal (For small tracks) but I'd probably agree that for Outdoor Asphalt tracks - 4 cell 19t will probably be preferred (or something similar in speed) But if you were going to do that - why not just do 4 cell INSIDE on the Carpet and 5 or 6 cell on the Asphalt and leave the motor alone. (THAT Keeps things pretty simple)

I'm hoping to do a little 21.5/LIPO testing in the next couple months on our Touring track - in hopes to create a similar type of class.
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Old 01-03-2008, 07:04 PM   #11
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Apexspeed,

I am currently rebuilding a XXX-S for this class that I got in a trade. I am going to convert some of my 6 cell packs to 4 cell. The car is going to take a few more weeks for me to get together. (I am focusing on my TC5). I am looking forward to giving this a try.
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Old 01-03-2008, 07:06 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik View Post
We're running on an indoor/carpet 40' X 65', fairly technical layouts.
Yeah, at this point, the 27t stock motor is pretty solid on the carpet indoor tracks. I don't think we're going to be real eager to make the class faster or harder for a beginner to jump into.

To see guys who quit 2 or three years ago building up old cars to come back and race JUST in this class, or a new guy walk into the track and have a car ready and waiting for him at the front counter, then get hooked enough to buy his own, is the whole point of this class.



And it's truly working.

There isn't anything like walking off of the driver's stand after a main where ALL of the drivers are laughing and joking and patting each other on the back.
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Old 01-03-2008, 07:09 PM   #13
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Quote:
And it's truly working.

There isn't anything like walking off of the driver's stand after a main where ALL of the drivers are laughing and joking and patting each other on the back.
Yeah! I LOVE those kinds of races...

20 cars on a tight road course, slow speeds and DRIVING - THAT'S as close to 'REAL' racing as you can get.
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Old 01-03-2008, 07:12 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by ApexSpeed View Post
There isn't anything like walking off of the driver's stand after a main where ALL of the drivers are laughing and joking and patting each other on the back.
Agreed...we have as much "buzz" at the scale for post-TA race weigh-in as we do for any other actual race in the house.

All I'll offer is that your "federation" absolutely CAN offer two different motor specs (hell, TC and 1/12 have been running THREE motor specs for YEARS via ROAR) then leave it to individual clubs to support what class(es) they will. THIS is the "inclusive" means to build a truly nation-wide federation. We give a little (eliminate weight restrictions, etc) and you give a little (allow that more than one class can STILL create a healthy federation). I agree that Open/Mod would be a complete waste of time, but don't blind yourself to other possibilities that are out here. We're experiencing EXACTLY the same re-patriation of old and introduction of new racers you are.
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Old 01-03-2008, 07:12 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by SWTour View Post
It is another hard sell for a lot of socalled 'serious' racers, but man they are great fun for local races..and IF you are racing someplace where your in front of spectators THEY LOVE the 'vintage' look and feel.
I wish you could have seen the faces of Barry Baker and Brian Kinwald as they "guest drove" a car in the Novak Red-Eye warm-up race this past New Year's Day.

If the "serious" guys can get past their own egos enough, I guarantee that they would absolutely LOVE the class, regardless of the speeds. Our local guys who I would consider top level drivers are behind the class 100%. It's great to see all levels of skill participate. And so far, everyone has had the same great attitude. It's a lot like the Tamiya Mini class, without the toy cars.
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