Hpi Pro 4
Originally Posted by Skill
The version 1.1 gears diff slightly to the first version gears. First of all the small gear is backed with plastic, and the larger gear has a "step" to it on the back whereas the older gear just gradually goes inwards.
I fixed by the way. I shimmed the diffs on the wrong side which pushed the ring gear away from the bevel gear. I'm such a moron. Thanks for every bodies help.
Originally Posted by Skill
The version 1.1 gears diff slightly to the first version gears. First of all the small gear is backed with plastic, and the larger gear has a "step" to it on the back whereas the older gear just gradually goes inwards.
I finally fixed the problem. It turns out that I shimmed the diffs on the wrong side which in turn pushed the ring gear away from the bevel and that caused the clicking.
I'M A MORON!!!!!!!!!! Thanks for everybodies help.
as for shimming i'd consider it unlikely that the directions have the proper shims for your car speficically. that is to say that you should manually shim the car.
start with the diff (or oneway or spool) with no shims, then add shims to one side until the bearings dont move (the diff will still have a LITTLE movement due to the inner race moving), but still spins freely. this will give you the total shims needed.
then start adjusting where those shims are to get the mesh correct. i've had good luck setting mine with as little play as possible, but no binding.
even though the copper shims are thin, they can still make a big change, so take your time!
start with the diff (or oneway or spool) with no shims, then add shims to one side until the bearings dont move (the diff will still have a LITTLE movement due to the inner race moving), but still spins freely. this will give you the total shims needed.
then start adjusting where those shims are to get the mesh correct. i've had good luck setting mine with as little play as possible, but no binding.
even though the copper shims are thin, they can still make a big change, so take your time!
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
Pro 4 CVD BONES
Any recommendations to replacement CVD BONEs in the Pro 4 and where to get them? The purple aluminum ones which comes in the kit are so soft that I bent one first time on the track.
The Titanium Racing Worlds Editions are very strong, and light...
Tech Lord
iTrader: (38)
And we can get them from...
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
Originally Posted by nordheim
Any recommendations to replacement CVD BONEs in the Pro 4 and where to get them? The purple aluminum ones which comes in the kit are so soft that I bent one first time on the track.
cs 27
any setup advice for running cs-27 on med-low grip parking lot track ?
Originally Posted by xxxkat
And we can get them from...
man awhile ago i asked someone to show me pics but no one did
Originally Posted by DWill_996
any setup advice for running cs-27 on med-low grip parking lot track ?
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
also if you can, get a 2mm chassis it will help you get a bit more grip and then you can just coppy Hara's 2004 on road nats setup and fiddle with it from there. that is what i did
Originally Posted by nordheim
Any recommendations to replacement CVD BONEs in the Pro 4 and where to get them? The purple aluminum ones which comes in the kit are so soft that I bent one first time on the track.
-Josh
Tech Fanatic
Originally Posted by fjm9898
also if you can, get a 2mm chassis it will help you get a bit more grip and then you can just coppy Hara's 2004 on road nats setup and fiddle with it from there. that is what i did
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
I went and purchased the IRS big dawgs for the tc3. Seems to be a lot beefier than the stock aluminum cvd bones.
I never have ever liked HPI's CVDs. Even if you don't bend them, you're garunteed to twist them. Is there really any way to avoid it, or do I need to keep stocking up on the TC3/4 bones?
-Josh
-Josh