Din Viesel

That is the track that I will be racing at. I decided to run stock, seeing I have never ran this car before. A bunch of friends of mine went up there last weekend from Va. Beach and loved it all but 2 made the A main and the other 2 took the B, so I am looking forward to running on an awsome track. I appreciate it if you find that setup, I am a little anxious about running a new car at a trophy race.
thanks
Steve

Din Viesel

thanks Josh, I had already tried all that you mentioned. I am wondering if maybe the diff or bevel gear maybe out of round during the moulding process?! I ll pick up a new one of each and try that! Also maybe once it has had a few packs put thru it it will break in.
thanks again

Din Viesel

I don't want to come across as a "nay sayer" but I just got back from my local track with my new pro4 and was done in 30sec.s. Maybe I just recieved a bad quality control car or something, I was driving the car around a Hairpin turn( Not much speed needed for hairpins) ran the front inside tire over the dot and the front A arm was broke in 2 not to mention bending the MIP cvd!!! As posted above I had problems with the gears meshing correctly. To boot none of the local shops carry HPI parts and I have less than a week to fix this...Is there some sort of new composite arms that I need to get?? Thats a pretty soft arm to break under force(no contact with anything).. Again I am not normally like this but A $350 car should not be that brittle!!

Antonio Sabato

I recommend you sell your Pro4...and get a SAVAGE.... the pro 4 is a race car! Every race car i have ever owned is brittle.

you really like the flaming smiley..

Wahhh my hobby shop doesn’t have parts... Wahh my car broke when i crashed

Din Viesel

EAT ME

wyd

iTrader: (51)

Almost all touring cars have brittle parts as they are made very hard with no flew but with this comes a more fragile car. If you broke a arm and bent 2 cvd's at the same time you were going faster than you thought you were.

The only cars that are tough in the a arm department is any of the Tamiya cars running the 04 type system. The stock 415, Surikan EVO3 and the TA04 come to mind.

I have broken many arms on many brand cars. The less flex the more breakage.

I think HPI did have some stronger A arms out that are not near as stiff but I don't know the part number.

Din Viesel

I only needed to vent, I have been racing for about 18 years now and have never experienced a car that reacted like that! The other guys I race with that that was odd for such slow speed and no contact to have that happen. Like I said maybe that batch of moulded arms was already doomed!

no1uno

what did you hit I can't beleve you just hit a dot and broke a arm I have never broken anything but a cvd and that was just from ware. Friday night I hit a car at full song on the straight and tumbled about 20 time car landed on it's wheels and just drove away to finish third no broken parts no tweek no nothing this car just does not break period!!!!!!!

dontfeelcold

iTrader: (22)

Just bad luck, other times you will cream a barrier and just keep going. Ive broken an Xray arm just from putting a tire over a dot, didnt upset the car at all, just snapped the arm.

the_barbarian

iTrader: (3)

get rid of the MIP shafts and get the steel ones you can try these arms


31420 PRO4 HIGHT TRACTION SUSPENSION ARM SET(2 PCS)


75184 PRO4 HARD STEEL UNIVERSAL DOGBONE(2PCS)

Din Viesel

Appreciate it barbarian, I will deffinately look into those parts..

Thats the freakiness of this whole thing, I didn't hit anything!! Better to have happen now than in the Show!

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

high traction arms highly recommend..more durable than the stock cf parts... I've done tripple summersalts and come out with no arms brokens... other parts...that's a different story... for the most part..car was drivable and no DNF's... the bad part is... those arms are only available overseas... the good parts is I might have an extra set to sell you...I'll have to double check..if my bro..hasn't swiped them out of my pit box. I'll PM if I have a full set.

for the Dog bones... stay with the MIPS and get TC3 steel dogbones... or TC4 HD dog bones. they are a direct fit... with the hard steel universals...again..only available overseas... TC3/TC4 bones are readily available at majority of Hobby shops.

to order overseas.. Try RainbowTen in Japan... they have everything you can imagin. or RcModel in HK too...

josh69162

iTrader: (3)

That has to be the most bizzarre story I've ever heard! I had bad glitching one day, I sent my car flipping over the barrier after a direct hit on the front right a-arm. I bent a hingpin, snapped a ball stud, ripped the knuckle in two, but my a-arm was fine! I think you definately caught a stroke of (extremely) bad luck. The bad part was I had spare arms, but no spare knuckles...
-Josh

EDIT: As for the bones, I have blue TC3 bones in the front, and composites in the back. It is a very strong set up it seems...
-Josh

ChadCapece

Well guys, I haven't posted in about 150 pages, but I'm back. I got the chance to own another Pro4 and I went for it. Car should be at my house this week.

josh69162

iTrader: (3)

Congratulations! What made you come back?
-Josh