Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X >

Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree4Likes

Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-04-2010, 05:50 AM
  #8626  
Tech Master
iTrader: (34)
 
veecee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,454
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by CraigM
are the other smokem runners flipping the centre shaft along with the rest of the drivetrain?
Hey Craig. I flipped mine on the X to get the front belt as far across as possible. Didn't have to do that on the original 416 as there are more shims to work with.
veecee is offline  
Old 04-04-2010, 06:26 AM
  #8627  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (22)
 
BigRon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Cbus,Ohio USA
Posts: 524
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Thanks Craig, I'm at a crossroads on choosing a chassis as well. I'm making a return to onroad racing after club racing offroad for the last 5 years. I currently have a TA05 ver2 that I've been having hard time finding parts for at times. I know the two chassis share a few parts, which is the reason I'm leaning more towards the 416 chassis. But the parts issues worry me.
BigRon is offline  
Old 04-04-2010, 08:17 AM
  #8628  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (88)
 
artwork's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Thornton, CO
Posts: 3,511
Trader Rating: 88 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by dameetz
I have an Exotek 416XL chassis, I have just finished installing it. Pics below...





I haven't tested it yet...hopefully by today. The thickness is 2mm. I have few points to highlight here when using this chassis.

1) The 'L' shape weight (front) will touch the front steering post if you set the batt at the most inward position. So you can only use middle and outer position.

2) There are 2 positions for the batt Forward like 416WE and Rear 416X.....again the 'L' shape weight only allow you to use the rear position coz the steering system will touch the 'L' weight when putting left steering (you can't get full left steering)

3) I haven't weight my car yet but when I tried to balance it, its too heavy at the batt side. I wish Exotek would make the 'L' shape weight in thin pieces ie 5-10grams each so I can just add or remove it accordingly.

Other than that I think I m happy with the quality of this Exotek 416XL chassis and hope it will handle better than the ori one.
Great looking car...Very clean and all the blue makes me so happy! Nice Job and great attention to detail.
artwork is offline  
Old 04-04-2010, 08:29 AM
  #8629  
Tech Elite
 
dameetz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: The Sky
Posts: 2,564
Default

Originally Posted by artwork
Great looking car...Very clean and all the blue makes me so happy! Nice Job and great attention to detail.
Thank you Artwork....I m crazy about blue too....
dameetz is offline  
Old 04-04-2010, 08:45 AM
  #8630  
Tech Elite
 
dameetz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: The Sky
Posts: 2,564
Default

Originally Posted by Chris Furman
DAMEETZ:

Very nice.. I also got the Exotek and still building it.

A couple questions though... where did you get the "BLUE" Diff seals?

And is that a 17.5 motor? What kind is it and where did you get it?

Are those the new TRF Black short springs? I don't believe the long ones are available yet?


thanks,
Chris
The diff seal I made it myself using vinyl (the one for full scale car decoration) I just cut it using circle cutter.

No its a 3.5T mod motor ( I run mostly mod) Its brand is Hobbywing, which I think made by Feigao (looks exactly like SP comp ver 2.0).

The springs are actually HPI silvers, I use Kyosho VoneRRR evo spring retainer and ball link, its a perfect fit for the spring and the ball link fit nicely into the Tamiya ball stud.
dameetz is offline  
Old 04-05-2010, 07:18 AM
  #8631  
Tech Elite
 
dameetz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: The Sky
Posts: 2,564
Default

I managed to test my car today with the Exotek conversion....All the set up was the same as i ran with the original chassis....Tyre used was Much More 32....The most noticeable handling improvement that I noticed was I have tons of grips...before this my car was a little bit twitchy on the rear and the steering was never the same between right and left input...usually the left input was more sensitive making it break loose (I have tried a lot of things BUT its still there...Note: My old 416WE had this problem too)....Today all the problems that I had was gone...i can make aggressive steering input and still did not break the rear loose....I m really satisfied with this Exotek chassis conversion....Yet I haven't fully balance weight the car (still batt side heavy).....
dameetz is offline  
Old 04-05-2010, 11:44 AM
  #8632  
Tech Lord
iTrader: (26)
 
Hebiki's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Chino, CA
Posts: 12,922
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by dameetz
I managed to test my car today with the Exotek conversion....All the set up was the same as i ran with the original chassis....Tyre used was Much More 32....The most noticeable handling improvement that I noticed was I have tons of grips...before this my car was a little bit twitchy on the rear and the steering was never the same between right and left input...usually the left input was more sensitive making it break loose (I have tried a lot of things BUT its still there...Note: My old 416WE had this problem too)....Today all the problems that I had was gone...i can make aggressive steering input and still did not break the rear loose....I m really satisfied with this Exotek chassis conversion....Yet I haven't fully balance weight the car (still batt side heavy).....
dameetz.. you need to get rid of those TWO LONE black screws on your top deck and replace it with some blue ones.
Hebiki is offline  
Old 04-05-2010, 12:16 PM
  #8633  
Tech Elite
 
dameetz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: The Sky
Posts: 2,564
Default

Originally Posted by Hebiki
dameetz.. you need to get rid of those TWO LONE black screws on your top deck and replace it with some blue ones.
Wow....you noticed that.....Those 2 screws were BLUE before until I stripped the hex head after over tightening them during finishing this conversion....anyway I have to get some spares now....
dameetz is offline  
Old 04-05-2010, 12:29 PM
  #8634  
Tech Lord
iTrader: (26)
 
Hebiki's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Chino, CA
Posts: 12,922
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by dameetz
Wow....you noticed that.....Those 2 screws were BLUE before until I stripped the hex head after over tightening them during finishing this conversion....anyway I have to get some spares now....
well if you really want to nitpick... your bumper brace, motor and servo horn screws can also be blue.

car looks real nice. clean wiring, etc. i need to get some blue screws on my car to get that extra bling factor
Hebiki is offline  
Old 04-05-2010, 04:42 PM
  #8635  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
 
CraigM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 7,009
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

I like the gloss ones that come with the kit, can you buy them in packs? Or maybe you guys that are changing to the blue ones can send me yours?
CraigM is offline  
Old 04-06-2010, 03:52 PM
  #8636  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (94)
 
Raman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 5,349
Trader Rating: 94 (100%+)
Default

Hello everyone. I am new to racing and was planning on running my 416WE in RCGT sportman in a couple of weeks. Just wanted to confirm if you experts still recommend an FDR of 3.5 for 17.5 BL.

Thanks in advance.
Raman is offline  
Old 04-06-2010, 04:29 PM
  #8637  
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
 
mikus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Santa Barbara
Posts: 1,363
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by dameetz
I managed to test my car today with the Exotek conversion....All the set up was the same as i ran with the original chassis....Tyre used was Much More 32....The most noticeable handling improvement that I noticed was I have tons of grips...before this my car was a little bit twitchy on the rear and the steering was never the same between right and left input...usually the left input was more sensitive making it break loose (I have tried a lot of things BUT its still there...Note: My old 416WE had this problem too)....Today all the problems that I had was gone...i can make aggressive steering input and still did not break the rear loose....I m really satisfied with this Exotek chassis conversion....Yet I haven't fully balance weight the car (still batt side heavy).....

Have you noticed any premature wear on the chassis or any delamination or cracking on your chassis?

Thanks,

Mike
mikus is offline  
Old 04-06-2010, 04:39 PM
  #8638  
Tech Lord
iTrader: (26)
 
Hebiki's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Chino, CA
Posts: 12,922
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Raman
Hello everyone. I am new to racing and was planning on running my 416WE in RCGT sportman in a couple of weeks. Just wanted to confirm if you experts still recommend an FDR of 3.5 for 17.5 BL.

Thanks in advance.
what esc are you using?
Hebiki is offline  
Old 04-06-2010, 04:49 PM
  #8639  
Tech Adept
 
Morbo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 171
Default

Originally Posted by Raman
Hello everyone. I am new to racing and was planning on running my 416WE in RCGT sportman in a couple of weeks. Just wanted to confirm if you experts still recommend an FDR of 3.5 for 17.5 BL.

Thanks in advance.
For GTB? Yes.
Morbo is offline  
Old 04-06-2010, 05:18 PM
  #8640  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (94)
 
Raman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 5,349
Trader Rating: 94 (100%+)
Default

Morbo you have a good memory... Yes GTB..
Raman is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.