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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

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Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X

Old 04-07-2010, 11:40 PM
  #8656  
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
I found the Exotek chassis much too stuck on medium-grip carpet. The car was very planted, and I struggled to free it up. Lap times suffered as a result. I put the 2.5mm chassis on from the original car and it was much quicker. I'm not sure the 2mm is the right choice for carpet.

That said, with the belts flipped and the car properly balanced, I definitely felt like the handling characteristics were improved.

All in all, I'm VERY glad to see companies like Exotek support Tamiya, and I hope they continue to do so. This is the chassis I would run outside or in lower traction for sure. For higher grip, I'd have liked something closer to the stock thickness, or even 2.5 to try out.
That is true, I feel the car is more planted with the exotek. I run outdoor asphalt with no track additive, so it helps to be planted. Our track also has a banked sweeper so the chassis takes some severe beatings. The narrower exotek chassis is a little less prone to dragging than the standard one.
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Old 04-08-2010, 05:40 AM
  #8657  
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Originally Posted by MikeR View Post
Hi Dameetz,

I have new 25% lighter weights coming in later this week. PM me if you want to switch to these

THX, M
MikeR, PM sent...
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Old 04-08-2010, 07:45 AM
  #8658  
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Originally Posted by Taman View Post
Hi artwork, can you show a picture of your lipo setup? interested to see how you secure it.
I will try to post a picture later today
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Old 04-12-2010, 04:38 AM
  #8659  
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I raced my 416X this past Saturday in Stock (17.5) for the first time and I really like this chassis. I found it relatively easy to drive and the handling was very predictable. I haven't raced a "high end" TC car in four years, and then it was with a stock brushed motor. These 17.5 brushless ESC/motors (Tekin RS) can be a real handful in terms of speed. Still getting used to that.

I expected to break steering and or suspension parts but I guess I didn't hit many boards. The only part I broke was the ball connector used on the bottom of one of the rear shocks. That was freak incident, as my car actually went airborne and end over end.

I have made a few changes:

- 46mm front swing shaft
- off-set battery mount (I cut three 2.5mm carbon fiber pieces and shoo gooed them to the chassis to secure the battery.
- ceramic diff balls
- steel ball connector bottom of all 4 shocks

The only problem I couldn't seem to resolve was the body scraping the ground in the turns and loosing body pins. My Mazdaspeed 6 body was cut so that it doesn't extend below the bottom of the chassis, but it continually scrapped the asphalt. I trimmed and trimmed the body, but I never solved the scraping problem. Seemed to only happen when turning left.

Overall, I'm very pleased with this car, and I'm glad that I didn't get an Xray.
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Old 04-12-2010, 07:43 PM
  #8660  
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Default set up help trf 416 we

i need setup help for my 416 on a medium grip track with 10.5 running stock setup with mazdaspeed6 body


thanks
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Old 04-13-2010, 06:53 AM
  #8661  
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I've never had a problem with lipo's fitting my stock chassis simply because I run them offset. It also allows me to balance the car left-right with less weight. I do in fact love the that Tamiya is getting aftermarket parts attention.

I've posted these before but here is my car balanced out and showing the battery position.



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Old 04-13-2010, 12:42 PM
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how do you keep the battery secure, so it doesnt move towards the centre of the chassis etc?
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Old 04-13-2010, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Taman View Post
how do you keep the battery secure, so it doesnt move towards the centre of the chassis etc?
I just use one piece of strapping tape. The battery has never moved before, even if the battery is flat on the bottom.
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Old 04-13-2010, 01:11 PM
  #8664  
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ok !
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Old 04-14-2010, 08:00 AM
  #8665  
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Default cross joint #93500

I'm rebuilding the universals.

I can get everything but the cross joints(where grub screw threads in). Where can I get them from as I have tried all HK online shops with no luck!
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Old 04-14-2010, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Geppetto View Post
I raced my 416X this past Saturday in Stock (17.5) for the first time and I really like this chassis. I found it relatively easy to drive and the handling was very predictable. I haven't raced a "high end" TC car in four years, and then it was with a stock brushed motor. These 17.5 brushless ESC/motors (Tekin RS) can be a real handful in terms of speed. Still getting used to that.

I expected to break steering and or suspension parts but I guess I didn't hit many boards. The only part I broke was the ball connector used on the bottom of one of the rear shocks. That was freak incident, as my car actually went airborne and end over end.

I have made a few changes:

- 46mm front swing shaft
- off-set battery mount (I cut three 2.5mm carbon fiber pieces and shoo gooed them to the chassis to secure the battery.
- ceramic diff balls
- steel ball connector bottom of all 4 shocks

The only problem I couldn't seem to resolve was the body scraping the ground in the turns and loosing body pins. My Mazdaspeed 6 body was cut so that it doesn't extend below the bottom of the chassis, but it continually scrapped the asphalt. I trimmed and trimmed the body, but I never solved the scraping problem. Seemed to only happen when turning left.

Overall, I'm very pleased with this car, and I'm glad that I didn't get an Xray.
Larry,

On my MS6 bodies, after trimming the front lip on the line, I will then cut the lip in half to keep from dragging. Not sure how much you have trimmed, but that is what works for me
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Old 04-14-2010, 03:00 PM
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Don't you guys know the sharpie trick??
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Old 04-14-2010, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
Don't you guys know the sharpie trick??
The one with the quarter??
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Old 04-14-2010, 04:00 PM
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We don't have quarters Down Under, but I think we're talking about the same thing...

I leave cutting the bottom of the body till last, instead just cut roughly near the line, then mount it up with the roof at the correct height for the local rules. With wheels on the car and ride height set I get a sharpie and lay it flat on its side on the setup board & drag it around the the car, then cut along the line it makes. The width of the sharpie is the perfect height for the body not to drag, plus normally the sides are not 100% straight compared with lines on the body
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Old 04-14-2010, 04:01 PM
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Ed,

What has happened to thard.co.uk?
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