johnbull

That's only half the pic. I'll try again.

johnbull

That's a bit better.

Now here's a pic of my steering assembly. Note how everything works off the front portion of the levers. There is no back portion which allowed me to move the cells right forward on the left and the servo right forward on the right (from previous pic).

The chassis is one I cut myself. But more on that later.

johnbull

From the previous pic you will probably have noticed alloy locked front diff. The shrink tube around the outdrives keeps the plastic blades in place.

You may have also noticed the Corally Assassin shocks.

Next pic. The other end of the driveshafts with my own little CV joint boots. They work great and driveshafts last alot longer since they are constantly working in grease.

johnbull

Finally an underneath view of the chassis.

Note how far forward and central the cells are placed.

The chassis was cut out of 3.8mm carbon fibre, so tweek is just non existant, especially with the Rayspeed top plate.

2Tenths

johnbull: Nice pictures. Is that a custom made chassis or is it the Atheena one?

johnbull

No it's one I made myself. Carbon Fibre is very easy to cut.

I buy the sheets from FibreLyte in whatever thickness you want them and just cut. Start it off with a fret saw then just file to finish.

The positioning of the steering pivot screws are the same as the Rayspeed chassis but diff cases and suspension pivots are standard SD.

The main differences are in the mounting of the servo which is further forward, giving more space for electrics, and the cells which are further forward and nearer the centre.

rc_bam226

johnbull, can you please tell me what blade do you use, and what type saw? Thanks.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Joe

great job.

porter

iTrader: (47)

Johnbull what type of dog bones (drive shafts) are you using, those look like the Yok aluminum bones? Do those hold up very well in the front of the car?

Also wanted to ask everyone who runs on carpet, what brand and size foams do you run? Looking at my car it seems that 26mm foams will rub on the shocks. I'm planning on running carpet here in the next few months with this car, and was concerned of this.

Thanks for any help

Horatio

Definitely. The stuff he does is always impressive, even as far back as the old 200mm cars he produced almost entirely from a Ralt front wing end plate. I remember the article on them in RRCI. Going back a few years though......

Johnbull: Do they have to winch you onto the rostrum these days?

2Tenths

I run Jaco double-pinks in the rear and double-pink oranges up front. They're 28 mm wide (I think) and I true them to 59 mm in diameter to start, although they run best at around 58 or 57.5 mm. The fronts will rub on the steering knuckle, so you have to either grind down the knuckle or use shims to increase the off set. I used Tamiya red aluminum 1 mm off-sets from a friend's Surikarn car (all around).

To keep the tires from rubbing on the shocks, I use the second to inside hole on the arm up front, and the third from inside hole on the rear.

One more thing: Make sure the front hub carrier/knuckle shims are set so that the front tires won't rub on the arm when turning.

dragoneuh

Hi, where can i find Asphalt set up for CGM Chassis?
Can I run foam tire on asphalt?

porter

iTrader: (47)

Thanks 2tenths

anybody else or is this pretty much how every one does it. I don't need the compounds your running I've got that covered, just want to know how you get the wider foams to fit without rubbing on anything.

alch

tornado

Any link to FibreLyte ? .....Pleeeeze