mo

iTrader: (7)

My CGM car is almost done. Just have to do the shocks and mount the electronics. The chassis is very stiff. I love the new steering rack. I didn't have any problem with it binding. I'll be running it for the first time tomorrow in Stockton. I may not be able to run mod though. Just about the whole mod class went to the Snowbirds and most of the ones who didn't are taking a break. LOL We'll see what happens though. I'll at least practice with mod. I'll just have to bring a couple sets of shocks so I can quickly switch to a rubber tire setup to run 19 turn if I have to.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

I'll be interested to hear how the car does at Stockton. I've already got the weekend off so I'll be up there for the ROAR race in march.

OSherman

iTrader: (3)

Randman.. where exactly was this 'binding' issue located.. and what was the fix?... just curious..

JusBox

iTrader: (1)

Hmm, i'll try this today... seeing how i've got nothing better to do.

Headbanger

On the left steering post, I see a potential for binding. On mine, the top of the steering arms barely clears the bottom of the cover plate. The bearings were a tight fit, but I pushed them all the way in. I imagine if they were not fully inserted, that would make the arm higher on the post causing it to rub on the cover when turned full right.

mark turner

Can anyone tell me were to get ss shock bodies for my rayspeed ?
thanks

Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

try speedtechrc.com they carry alot of yokomo parts.
If you want to save some money you could just order
the shockbody.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Basically the top bearing in the left bellcrank wouldn't push in deep enough. When you put the top brace on, the molded in shim would put stress in the inner race of the bearing causing it to bind. Fix - I used an XActo to take material out of the inside of the bellcrank off of where the bearing sits, pushed the bearing in about .3mm deeper than stock and it's bind free.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Actually I used the SSS bodies on my Rayspeed with short shock ends. I believe the length was 62mm long in front, and 64mm long in rear.

mark turner

Randman could you get the right ride height using the short shock ends?

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Yes, without any problem actually. Just use the shock lengths I gave you and you should be able to get plenty of droop as well.

shortygy

You can use any motor spray or w/e in the integy cleaner. Its made from some decent plastci and i have had motor spary in it for long periods of time and have had the machine for about 2 years, and its still fine.

DOTMAN

iTrader: (5)

I use mineral spirits (You can get a gallon for a few bucks) and I've never had a problem either

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...threadid=32855

2Tenths

I've almost finished my CGM (just need to do the shocks and electronics), and had the same issue. I just used a small file and an exacto knife and got the bearing to sit flush with the top. The steering has not had any binding and is much better than the older version (less slop and freer). Overall, I'm excited to try the new chassis. It's stiffer than the plate, but I still think it flexs more than a TC3.
One issue I had, and I'd like to know if others have too, is when the rear shock tower was attached, I had trouble getting the gear box cover on. I had to loosen the tower to get the gear box closed fully, and never had this issue on the plate car.
The other weird thing: The graphite battery strap's holes were too big for the battery posts, and so it didn't fit well. Anyone else noticed this? Also, the batteries sit so deep I had to put a spacer between the strap and the c-clip holding it down to keep the batt from moving around!