Jeff Werner

iTrader: (30)

I agree with Pops on this. When I made my first SSG I had the same issue. Just take out that rear diff and make sure the rear drive gears is seated all the way. It is easy to miss it the first time.

Jeff

Tek Nickal

If you neglect to put thread lock on the screw that holds the gear to the input shaft, it can easily move and strip your gears.

chappi

iTrader: (17)

can the RAYSPEED conversion Kit fit on the new SD CGM chassis?

Tek Nickal

So you mean if you have the CGM chassis, you want to convert it to a Rayspeed? Yeah, I'd work.

chappi

iTrader: (17)

yes, thats what i mean...

thinking of getting the CGM chassis...

then buy the RAYSPEED conversion kit so that I can change the chassis to carbon.

hence I have both the tub chassis and a carbon chassis..

Is that work? AzNDAGster

Or has anyone has try this out in there SD CGM?

asimo

Hey guys!

Swaybar question I want to clear up.

lower (short) vs Upper (long).

What's the difference in characteristics of the cars handling.

I remember someone telling me running the upper ones (long) gives the car more initial turn in. But I'm not 100% sure. Could be wrong.

Just wondering if someone could help me out! Or Could tell me everything I need to know about sway bars for the SD!

Thanks!

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

Yes, it will work if you really want to do it. The CGM is IMO a better car than the rayspeed car. The RS car is a double deck car and it can take a tweek in a crash, the CGM will not.

sosidge

You'll need a few more parts than just the Rayspeed conversion.

You'll need different wishbone mounts, some of the CGM ones are different.

You'll need some extra hardware for the steering assembly - like steering posts and screws, and maybe another servo saver assembly - the CGM steering assembly is different.

Maybe a few other parts, not sure as I have not tried the conversion myself (why would you want to?)

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

I've been playing around the past couple weeks with both the lower and upper front sway bar. I really don't know why but I prefer the upper sway bar, I just like the feel of it better. I don't think either has more turn in or whatever, they just feel different.

asimo

Matt: I've only started to drive consistantly and want to learn more about car tunning. Want to know the design purpose between the 2 different sway bars.

marzin

Hi,

I missed the DIY Fixed Spool....could someone post it again, cos
I would like to make a Fixed Spool.

Thanks a Million!!

Btw Thanks to all who advised on the rear bearing binding, its better now.

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

For the sway bars, the upper sway bar as more leverage on the arm because it mounts out farther on the arm. The lower sway bar mounts closer to center.

I don't remember if this part was correct, but I thought the upper swaybar was made for highspeed tracks where as the lower was for more technical tracks.

pops

iTrader: (1)

I want to highly recomend the new Ti hinge pin retainer screws. These are self tapping, and go in twice as easy and twice as fast as the old 2.6 screws. You need two packs ZC-BH265T for all 4 arms. Great product, anybody else try them?

pops

iTrader: (1)

I think the best new part out for the SD is the new lightweight kingpins. Because of their design the steering hubs align perfectly. There is no binding of the C hubs and steering hubs at all when you install these. Have been using them for about a month and the kingpins are not coming loose. Have bent a couple of the Suzuki knuckles and went to the graphite knuckles instead.

Jeff Werner

iTrader: (30)

Pops: have you guys switched over to the new wide bumper? Can you still run the bodied that were used while running the small bumper?

Also would you have a baseline outdoor asphalt setup that you guys are running now? Will be attending the Nats in July and am excited to get the CGM outdoors!

Jeff