Team Losi JRXS Type-R
What you are looking at there is chassis tweak, not weight balance. To do weight balance you check the left/right and front/rear vs each other off the chassis itself, not the suspension. Try this....
*Place all gear on you assembled chassis lightly held in place so it won't move around.
*Use two points or a round object up the center of the chassis (the center is marked with a small hole at each end) to balance on.
*Add weight on either the left or right to get it balancing right.
*Now get out your scales (at least 1kg) and a similar size solid object like a car stand. You will also need two objects to place the chassis on (I use my tools with a flat edge).
*Place the objects on the scales and base and adjust so the tools or what ever you use match the wheel base of your chassis.
*Now zero the scales and place the chassis on both objects making sure the axles are straight over the balance points (tools or whatever). Note the reading.
*Now switch the chassis around and repeat for the other end.
*You now have your front rear ratio so add weight to get it right. You can also move the weight you used for left to right balance forward or aft to help as long as it is the same distance from the center of the chassis.
Generally a balanced chassis is faster than unbalanced and light. The losi seems to like A 52/48% F/R balance.
Also here is a pic of the upper deck I just killed to try out tomorrow. I picked what parts to cut so I could also secure all the wiring neatly. I doubt there would be much in it anyway but the chassis is very flexy now.
*Place all gear on you assembled chassis lightly held in place so it won't move around.
*Use two points or a round object up the center of the chassis (the center is marked with a small hole at each end) to balance on.
*Add weight on either the left or right to get it balancing right.
*Now get out your scales (at least 1kg) and a similar size solid object like a car stand. You will also need two objects to place the chassis on (I use my tools with a flat edge).
*Place the objects on the scales and base and adjust so the tools or what ever you use match the wheel base of your chassis.
*Now zero the scales and place the chassis on both objects making sure the axles are straight over the balance points (tools or whatever). Note the reading.
*Now switch the chassis around and repeat for the other end.
*You now have your front rear ratio so add weight to get it right. You can also move the weight you used for left to right balance forward or aft to help as long as it is the same distance from the center of the chassis.
Generally a balanced chassis is faster than unbalanced and light. The losi seems to like A 52/48% F/R balance.
Also here is a pic of the upper deck I just killed to try out tomorrow. I picked what parts to cut so I could also secure all the wiring neatly. I doubt there would be much in it anyway but the chassis is very flexy now.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (24)
There was a guy running a hacked to hell car at the reedy race last year. His car was garbage on the track and looked like crap off the track. I ran a box stock car and won, so go figure.
This guy was not a bad driver either.
Excessive chassis flex is just a bandaid for a poorly setup car. Especially on tracks with any kind of traction.
This guy was not a bad driver either.
Excessive chassis flex is just a bandaid for a poorly setup car. Especially on tracks with any kind of traction.
Tech Rookie
Black Spur Gear
Does anyone know where / if i can get a black spur gear? The kevlar ones look so... beige?!
Tech Elite
iTrader: (74)
Does anyone have a part # for the 1 way outdrives?I can only seem to find the whole assembly.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
Has anyone encountered bent diff bolts or bent plastic diff halves? I found both in one diff, but strangely was able to scrounge straight spares from a spool. I would have guessed the spool components would be all torn up, but no.
Tech Initiate
OK tired of looking what is the web page of the layshaft that everyone is buying I think it's called the flying fox or something like that, thanks in advance.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
you will need a flying fox adapter to run these, i carry them in the states and www.flyingfoxrc.com will handle austrailia and the eastern asia region.
I have the mcmaster thrust bearings in stock, working on the niftek lube i have losi black grease on order. Putting it all up on the website in a nice little package for our diffs.
Working on the diff building video, can't find my dam digital camera.
I'll be sending it to John Wee's blog as well.
US guys/gals the onroad electric regionals will be in september I really have high hopes for the Losi with all these Flying Fox mods at this event. Check the racing forum for details but I'd love to have a strong Losi showing.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
I might get a chance to do more testing this weekend. If I do I'll post how it went.
Company Representative
iTrader: (6)
There was a guy running a hacked to hell car at the reedy race last year. His car was garbage on the track and looked like crap off the track. I ran a box stock car and won, so go figure.
This guy was not a bad driver either.
Excessive chassis flex is just a bandaid for a poorly setup car. Especially on tracks with any kind of traction.
This guy was not a bad driver either.
Excessive chassis flex is just a bandaid for a poorly setup car. Especially on tracks with any kind of traction.
Company Representative
iTrader: (6)
Hey type-R pilots!
I got a center shaft and a spool from tory at skyrocketracing.com 2 weeks ago and finally finished my review about the items on my blog.
check it out!
I got a center shaft and a spool from tory at skyrocketracing.com 2 weeks ago and finally finished my review about the items on my blog.
check it out!
Tech Elite
iTrader: (74)
Hopefully i will have mine soon,looking forward to it
Tech Champion
iTrader: (1)
Interesting review of the spool. The LCD's sticking is a side affect of damage to the outdrives. This is just a normal side effect of a more solid spool with no give. Filing them out should help free them up again. The real thing to watch out for is make sure after any big front end crash that the outdrives are still nice and solid in the spool tube. In modified I have so far damaged 2 outdrives so they rotate a little in the spool tube. This is more my vegetable driving than anything else but 10.5 and mod drivers should check this.
For anyone who runs a spool this is a must have. It is way lighter than the slipper spool setup from losi and much simpler to use and maintain. Generally speaking weight off the drivetrain is worth 3x the same weight of the chassis in terms of performance.
For anyone who runs a spool this is a must have. It is way lighter than the slipper spool setup from losi and much simpler to use and maintain. Generally speaking weight off the drivetrain is worth 3x the same weight of the chassis in terms of performance.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (24)
I ran the stock spool in 10.5 and 13.5 for a season at a time with NO damage to my spool, the outdrives or anything else for that matter. You do not need an after market spool that can possibly mess with the handling of your car in these classes.
A sticking spool outdrive can serverly affect the handling of a car, the outdrives were not designed to take a solid hit and will get damaged easily if the spool doesn't give like the stock one.
If you build the stock one right the first time it shouldn't give you any trouble in anything but mod.
A sticking spool outdrive can serverly affect the handling of a car, the outdrives were not designed to take a solid hit and will get damaged easily if the spool doesn't give like the stock one.
If you build the stock one right the first time it shouldn't give you any trouble in anything but mod.