Originally Posted by MaxRain

I am tempted myself to try the flex mod, but I think it is better to have a proper suspension first.

I recently rebuilt my shocks with the c-ring tip that john wee uses. I took extra spacers that are used for the a-arms, cut out a piece and attached it to the shock shaft. In addition, I chose to put the orange pistons #60 on. (I don't have to worry about temps to much because we run in a moderate climate). I then set the shock length to 63mm, and 12mm distance on the shock shaft.

After filling and airing out the shock, I put the bladder on and held it in place with the back end of an exacto knife, press the shock shaft in, and then the c-rings stop the shaft from going all the way in.

Next, I place the pair of shocks on the losi shock tool, without the spring. Result, a perfect pair with rebound so close, the shocks move in unison.

As for the second pair of shocks, not the same as I discovered the orange piston was rubbing against the inside wall of the shock body. Result, un-equal rebound. So I take it apart, sand down one of the pistons, put oil back in, set rebound with the c-ring. Put it back on the shock tool, result perfect rebound...

The shock tool also works well for testing worn out springs, and 0-rings. I highly recommend it.

Lastly, I have a tip for identifying shocks. Since all the shocks are the same color, I take a silver sharpie and mark the shocks with tick marks as soon as I take them out of the package. I record the results in the manual, and I never loose track of which ones I am using. Just make sure you make the marks on an inner ring, because the markings can wear off if they make contact with the shock body or bottom spring holder.

I am hoping that all this prep will make the car more stable, I assume that it will. I commented once before that a stiff chassis is better, regardless of traction, but there are many that have opinions about this. One spot the chassis flexes is the shock tower. I never noticed this until last night, while pressing down on the chassis with the newly built shocks attached. Don't know if this affects performance, but one thing I do know is that we have the ability to use different springs, shock oils and sway bars.

My next goal is to learn how to perfect the setting of sway bars. I have tested this before, but wasn't sure if I was doing this correctly. In addition, I didn't have the shocks set correctly til now. One of the things I didn't realize is that when I lifted the car of the ground or table, the shocks springs would move/shift around. They wouldn't stay in tack with the bottom holder/shock body. This is not the case any longer, with the shocks set at 63mm.

If anyone has tips on how to properly set the sway bars, please let me know.

Originally Posted by JRXS_chris

One thing I have tried with the sways is mounting them lower on the shock tower i.e. flip the mounting plate round and shortening the link rods that attach to the arm. I have no idea why but it seems alot easier to get an equal action left to right.

Originally Posted by L.Fairtrace

I ran the stock spool in 10.5 and 13.5 for a season at a time with NO damage to my spool, the outdrives or anything else for that matter. You do not need an after market spool that can possibly mess with the handling of your car in these classes.

A sticking spool outdrive can serverly affect the handling of a car, the outdrives were not designed to take a solid hit and will get damaged easily if the spool doesn't give like the stock one.

If you build the stock one right the first time it shouldn't give you any trouble in anything but mod.

Originally Posted by MonkeyFist

Ok so I'm trying to make some fine adjustments to my JRXS before it makes its track debut. I found that my front camber needs to be adjusted, but the JR links seem to make this more difficult. Is there an easy way to make camber adjustments that I'm just not seeing?

So far I've resorted to removing the wheel and slipping the pin out and giving the outer link a twist slipping the wheel on and taking a measurement. Seems rather tedious and un-user friendly.

Is it better just to convert the JR link to a more conventional ball stud set up?

Originally Posted by MonkeyFist

Can you fit a turn buckle in the JR link? Instead of the screw the instructions say to use? It may require triming the ball cup, but has it been tried?

Originally Posted by da_John_wee

I have it on mine but it s not a losi, its made by kyosho.

Originally Posted by MonkeyFist

That looks like it's the hot ticket. The best of both worlds, JR link with ease of adjustabilty.

Originally Posted by MonkeyFist

What length of ball stud did you use for the conversion? Is it the 1/4 inch one (losa6026)? I may try both set ups out to see which one I like.

Originally Posted by da_John_wee

it all depend, I had regular link with stock chassis then I made my car in to "Lucas flex chassis" then I got too much initial steering (along with a FlyingFox 1pc spool) so this weekend I m going to try this JR link back on asphalt, IMO car felt good with a regular camber link / stock chassis on the carpet

Originally Posted by da_John_wee

that is depend on a ride height and of cos length of the rod.

my rule is set that so a swaybar(wire) and a linkage is 90deg in angle on given ride height.

Originally Posted by MonkeyFist

Ok so I'm trying to make some fine adjustments to my JRXS before it makes its track debut. I found that my front camber needs to be adjusted, but the JR links seem to make this more difficult. Is there an easy way to make camber adjustments that I'm just not seeing?

So far I've resorted to removing the wheel and slipping the pin out and giving the outer link a twist slipping the wheel on and taking a measurement. Seems rather tedious and un-user friendly.

Is it better just to convert the JR link to a more conventional ball stud set up?