Well you have to use the PowerHobby gauges 10mm blocks when measuring the downstop so that the chassis is raised up.

For the upstop I'm using the PowerHobby gauge's small wheels that thread on to the axles, If I use the 10mm blocks the gauge wouldn't reach the wheels. I suppose there is some math that can be done to calculate the upstop using the gauge and the diameter of the threaded on wheel to get the center of the axle point, but its easy enough for me to do it this way

Bringing back an old quote since we are on this topic ....

So I checked out the PowerHobby droop gauge I bought and the measurements on the block are in line with what they actually measure. Since the blocks to place under the chassis are 10mm, the threaded on wheels would have to measure 20mm in diameter (10mm radius) to offset the blocks under the chassis. Since the PowerHobby wheels actually measure 18.50mm in diameter, that's only 9.25mm radius (bottom of wheel to center of the axle).

This has me doing the following math:
Front Downstop - the car is raised 10mm, droop gauge is at 23.6mm front, but the wheels are 9.25mm to center of axle means the actual measurement technically is 23.6 + 10.0 -.9.25 = 24.35mm

Front Upstop - the car is flat on the setup board, gauge is at 22.2 front, but the wheels are 9.25mm to center of axle means the actual measurement technically is 22.2 + 9.25 = 31.45mm

Is my math right? ,,,, and to add more confusion is the numbers on the Aerox gauge the same but the wheels are a different diameter 18.0 so radius of 9.0mm? ...LOL

Most of the "new style" droop gauges measure the actual distance of the center of the axle to the underside on the chassis (when the car is suspenden on 10 mm blocks).
When using this style of droop gauges to measure the Upstop,you just place the car/chassis directly on the setup board without the 10 mm blocks.
Now you can measure the upstop using the droop gauges, but because the chassis sits now 10mm lower you have to add these 10 mm to the measurement you take with your droop gauge.
It is a happy accident that the range of common droop values provide the fitting range for popular upstops values when usual TC-Tires are used (~61 mm Diameter).
For example my current Downstop values i like are 23.6 mm Front, and 22.6 mm Rear.
Volkers 14.6 mm Upstop Values (measured under the lower hub ball) equates to ~ 32 - 33 mm upstops when the distance from the center of the axle to the bottom of the chassis is measured.

There should no math be involved measuring the aluminium wheels diameter etc. because the etched on measurements on the droop gauge should take that into account, otherwise it would be a poorly made tool.
Or are you using a "old style" droop gauge (which shows values of ~4.6 mm) and use some other aluminium wheels? But then you wouldn't have mentioned your gauge shows 22.0
In that case you are right, and you have to do quick math . But that would be very inconvenient.

Yeah the gauge is not taking into consideration the wheels as they measure different from the 10mm blocks. I'd think they should be the same Radius (half the diameter). I don't own the Aerox gauage so not sure if its the same as this PowerHobby one. Might just buy the new Hudy one or MR33 one if its more accurate.

When you are using this droop gauge, there should be no need to buy the MR33 or Aerox one. Just use the method i described earlier.
I'm pretty sure this Powerhobby one works exactly the same as the MR33 (which i use) and the Aerox one Jacob Cruz used.

At Thailand. Let's go.

Good luck and way to step up running modifiedTC

Big shout out to Ronald Volker (11) and Patrick Gollner (31) for their full support to Mugen customers, helping with setup and providing spare parts.

Porsha (46) did over 200 x 5 minute runs. 0 DNF, 0 crashing. I did not even change shock oil in over 20 days of running.

Ronald and Patrick both ran various types/brands of steel chassis, including Mugen prototype. Porsha ran the kit aluminum with lower aluminum diff cams. No other prototype special parts, just basic kit stuff.

Probably the most competitive TITC ever. Finishing of world champions (11 in attendance).

Andy Moore (30), Dario Balestri (29), Atsushi Hara (28), Jilles Groskamp (24), David Ronnefalk (19), Alexander Hagberg (15), Naoto Matsukura (12), Ronald Volker (11), Bruno Coelho (7), Marc Rheinard (4), Michal Orlowski (1)

For sure we will be running Mugen in TITC 2027

How many sets of tyres did you use? I think the top modified were using 1 set per run?? Was the drop off really that bad or was it done that way to make it fair ie everyone on new tyres? Expensive though!

Brand new tires were always fastest. 2nd run would drop by 0.3s / lap. Still good for practice up to 6th run. I pushed tires till 12 runs for practice.

Since drop off was big, top drivers started practicing on new tires each run as setup will be different on 2nd run tires.

For the event proper, Porsha used 9 sets. For practice around 30 sets (used, donated, bought 2-3 run tires for cheap).

That's more tyres than I go through in a year.

Hey guys,

I designed a set of battery spacers for the car. I wasn't quite satisfied with just the screws holding the battery position. Here's the file, if you want to print it for yourselves.

Martin Paradis

Hey guys, for those of you that have mounted the Hyrax body, what would be a good starting point for the front body posts length? I just don't want to cut them too short.

Martin Paradis

Does anyone know of a us source for a2175 aluminum upright they seem to be out of stock everywhere. I have checked amain, tqracing, Tonys screws, teameam.

I checked the mugen website and they seem to be out of stock also.