In the bore of the shock are tapered scallops that increases damping during compression.

In application it helps improve initial weight transfer but then add more damping post initial to the steady state portion of a turn. Usually we only use it on the front.

ok, Tank you.
Are there any parts in the standard kit that would be advisable to replace with optional parts?

This car is worth starting with the box setup. Car has been out about a year, there are a lot of setups online now.

Car is pretty good as is. The only thing I found is that the shocks are a little smoother with the soft diaphragms. You may also want to have optional springs and sway bars to fine tune your setup.

Martin Paradis

I’m just at the beginning of my journey learning to setup my new Mugen MTC3 and was wondering if you can help.

Looking at online setup ms online, Jacob Cruz, Ronald Völker, and Soren Sparbier, seems that for asphalt tracks, mixed complexity and fast, they seem to alternate between 1.1mm and 1.2mm anti roll bars.

Curious what you are typically use and when/why you change them, what is that giving you?

I’ve attach some pics of my local track as maybe that could help with your answers.

Thanks

Anti roll bars prevent excessive roll and make car easier to drive. The kit bars and springs are very good and probably no need to change. Better gains on tires, tire prep, body, wing, setup (ride height, camber, toe).

Ask Stephen Wilke for an MTC3 setup. He is the current fast Mugen guy at that track.

I messed around with swaybars and ended back at kit last season. Only setup advice I have is get the KPI if you need the front end more connected and I liked going one step softer on springs (4.5 front 4.75 rear) but wasn't a massive change. The car is amazing out of the box tho.

You change ARBs when you want to affect front/rear grip during cornering.

ARBs are one of several tuning options that can affect oversteer and understeer.

Oversteer is what happens when the front axle has more grip than the rear. It can result in spinouts. Understeer is the condition when the car does not turn in authoritatively as a result of having more grip in the rear than in the front.

These are conditions that you as a driver would have to identify. And when these conditions exist, you might say, “ time to tweak the old anti roll bars”

It might be useful to know what anti-rollbars do.

The long story short is that ARBs will increased the difference in load on the inside and outside tires during cornering. They increase load to the outside tire and decrease the load on the inside tire.

Increasing that difference in load reduces the effective grip at an axle. (this is because increased load does produce more grip, but not linearly— as more and more load is added the increase in grip gets less and less.)
By tuning your ARB’s, you are tuning the how lateral load os distributed.

(You’re also affecting how much the chassis can roll which can impact camber and your contact patch.)

First race with the MTC3 (gold body). No upgrades, just kit

for kit, this would be 1.1mm on front and 1.2mm on rear or vice versa would you say?

Front thicker than rear. But just a preference to each his own. Even if I swap it I probably won't notice any difference.

Primary - roll center, spring stiffness, flex, toe, camber / gain, diff
Secondary - roll bar

The minor depends on how you setup the major in my opinion.

[QUOTE=BEMO2019;16248607]I messed around with swaybars and ended back at kit last season. Only setup advice I have is get the KPI if you need the front end more connected and I liked going one step softer on springs (4.5 front 4.75 rear) but wasn't a massive change. The car is amazing out of the box tho.[/QUOTE
Whats the KPI?

[QUOTE=Kris_321;16248892]King pin inclination.

I watched these highlights, looked really great and balanced.