That's the damned part prompted me to get a second kit. smh. I'm curious. Did you shear the tops off?

Are you not keeping the posts long while you fit the body, and determining the length after you've placed the body down over the posts? (I have the Hyrax body too, but I have not started working on it.)

yeah that's where it broke. the car took I pretty big hit im kind of surprised that part broke and not something else

Yea. we may have identified a soft point. were you securing the steering arm with lightweight screws? (I was.)

My original car I used the Mugen Ti screws there to the bulkhead.
I took a pretty good hit on asphalt and it bent the Ti but the piece survived.

My second car I took a hit on the opposite and did the same thing.
I chose to use the Ti screws there instead of steel to save the part vs the screw.

I usually cut them in the right ballpark before I make the holes in the body. When they're too long, fitment is quite a bit off, I have found, thus my question.

Martin Paradis

i was using the factory hardware

its' a valid question. Definitely annoying when long posts throw the fitment off. I don't have the ballpark number, but your question prompted me to start prepping my Hyrax. I make my holes based on the distance between the posts (I'm using the 88mm configuration per the manual) and the distance between the front axle line and the body posts (50mm. Note: I was running 4 degrees of caster and about 1.2 degrees toe out when I calculated 50mm).

I usually use the process on the the Twister Sp. So, this was the first time on the Hyrax.

First, I lay in the axle line which goes up and over the wheel wells and across the hood




In the picture below, I used the grid on my cutting mat to define two points I can use to draw the axle line on the hood.



Once the axle line is drawn, I can find its center using a reference (I'm using the seam lines)


Half of that is the center.


I create another line using the seams as a reference, and find the center of that line.




The Hyrax has a convenient bump in the center of the hood. We can draw a line from that to our center point.



From the axle line to the body posts is 50mm (caster and two can affect thiss.


I draw the body post line through the 50mm mark. The body post holes will be on this line.


I made a template that I can overlay over the body post line. it makes it easier to mark the drill points. Without it, I would simply extend my body post line further and mark drill points 44mm off the center line in both directions. (Again, that based on how my body posts are installed. there is an 88mm configuration and 76mm configuration)



Arrows mark the drill points.

If I had to guess, I would say a body post length of 44-50mm will get you. In the picture the MTC3 is sitting at a 5mm ride height.

Many thanks! That helps a lot. I like the drill template you made, I might make myself one.

Martin Paradis

Speciale Templates

That's the Fusion file for the templates. The file may be a little messy, I'm not a professional... yet. I made the templates specifically for the Speciale body because that's what I always run, but it may have other utility The goal was to be able to put body support and spoiler holes where they should be without having to touch the car. The marking holes are small because I use a felt tip pin to mark my holes--aim small, miss small. But I'm hoping that with the Fusion file anyone can make whatever adjustments they want.

The tracer block holds a typical sharpie at 8, 9, 10, or 11mm, and the hole is tapered so the marker only goes in one way.

The spoiler template kind of locks over the body's spoiler humps. It can be turned over to put matching holes in the spoiler itself.

The rear template is for making holes for the screws if] you are using the Mugen rear body clips. I don't have a template for running the body posts out of the rear of the car (yet).

The front template is 88mm, and if used on the Twister, and it is centered on the hood and the long end is put 3mm under the windshield seam, it marks exactly where the front body post holes go.

The wheel well template center is at 31.125mm high--the height of the axel when there is weight on the tire.

note: The hole templates don't account for body placement tuning (ie, more forward, or rearward, higher, or lower.) And as always, if in doubt, don't make a hole.












The standard "well it worked for me" disclaimer:

I have to give mad props man. Your body drilling method is pretty accurate and repeatable. My method is janky and overly artistic.

That is a good idea i will probably do the same thanks for the info.

Thanks Believe me, I have a stack of jankiness. ha. I had to do something about it.

I just bought an MTC-3 and we'll be starting the build soon. I saw on a well-known store's website that they sell a MU-A2552 Mugen Seiki MTC-3 Bypass Damper Body kit, and my question is, what's the difference between this and the A2551 that comes in the stock kit?