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Old 01-07-2026 | 12:09 PM
  #871  
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I know why it's there but couldn't they have made it 1mm? Just my 2 cents.

I have model plane that uses M3.5 hardware. I mean really, M3.5?
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Old 01-08-2026 | 08:57 AM
  #872  
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Originally Posted by bmwjoon
I know why it's there but couldn't they have made it 1mm? Just my 2 cents.

I have model plane that uses M3.5 hardware. I mean really, M3.5?
Every car has it's quirks that are dictated by design choices. They reused the axles from the MTC2R. I guess that it was easier to have a 1.1 mm shim than changing the axles by making them .1 mm shorter and have the hubs .1 mm narrower. I agree, though that having to buy hexes to have extra shims sucks. They should have the shims separately.

Martin Paradis
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Old 01-08-2026 | 07:11 PM
  #873  
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after robert left mugen, and most likely goes to infinity, who will be the next designer of the upcoming mtc's?
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Old 01-09-2026 | 12:07 AM
  #874  
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The the spacers that come with the -0.5 hex same as the spacer original if so why additional, thanks
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Old 01-26-2026 | 11:35 AM
  #875  
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For those running 25.5 (or 21.5) on CRC black carpet how much weight have you used and generally where on the car? ...to get to the 1320 minimum.
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Old 01-26-2026 | 02:21 PM
  #876  
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Originally Posted by dogbone418
For those running 25.5 (or 21.5) on CRC black carpet how much weight have you used and generally where on the car? ...to get to the 1320 minimum.


I run 50-60 grams extra weight to get to 1320
i automatically use the 20 gram weight under the receiver then run 15 grams front center, and 15 grams rear center. This is using short protei servo.
hw speedo, r1 v30 17.5. And protek 7400 2s lipo
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Old 01-26-2026 | 04:21 PM
  #877  
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This is the setup I ran this past weekend at 180 Raceway in 21.5 TC. Car felt really good. Was easy to drive consistently.
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Last edited by TonysScrews; 01-28-2026 at 04:38 AM.
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Old 01-27-2026 | 08:50 AM
  #878  
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Originally Posted by TonysScrews

This is the setup I ran this past weekend at 180 Raceway in 21.5 TC. Car felt really good. Was easy to drive consistently.
Looking at your setup. Just a question, though. How do you measure the up and downstop? From your setup sheet, the downstop is set higher than the upstop... That would probably prevent the suspension from having any travel.

Martin Paradis

Last edited by rhodopsine; 01-28-2026 at 08:04 AM.
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Old 01-27-2026 | 10:03 AM
  #879  
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My guess is that this is a typo.
32.2 instead of 22.2 and 32.0 instead of 22.0. (~ radius of common tire diameters 62-64 mm).
Popular upstop measurements are 14.6 mm but measured under the lower ball of the hub, which equates to ~32 mm when measured to the middle of the axle.

Last edited by Tomillia; 01-27-2026 at 05:03 PM.
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Old 01-27-2026 | 11:20 AM
  #880  
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Originally Posted by Tomillia
My guess is that this is a typo.
32.2 instead of 22.2 and 32.0 instead of 22.0. (~ radius of common tire diameters 62-64 mm).
Popular upstop measurements are 14.6 mm but measured under the lower ball of the hub, which is equates to ~32 mm when measured to the middle of the axle.
You're probably right and it makes sense.

Martin Paradis
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Old 01-27-2026 | 12:24 PM
  #881  
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Originally Posted by rhodopsine
Looking at your setup. Just a question, though. How do you measure the up and downstop? From your setup sheet, the downstop is set higher than the upstop... That would probably prevent the suspension from having any travel.

Martin Paradis
Downstop I use the 10mm blocks that came with my PowerHobby gauge (similar to Aerox).
For upstop, I followed how Jacob Cruz posted on Facebook and measure with shocks removed and chassis deck flat on the setup board.

In his video he showed how Volker measures and it came out to like the 14.x number.
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Old 01-27-2026 | 05:12 PM
  #882  
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Originally Posted by TonysScrews
Downstop I use the 10mm blocks that came with my PowerHobby gauge (similar to Aerox).
For upstop, I followed how Jacob Cruz posted on Facebook and measure with shocks removed and chassis deck flat on the setup board.

In his video he showed how Volker measures and it came out to like the 14.x number.
So it's not a typo but you have to add 10mm to the measurement in your setup-sheet to get the real value that the drawing in the sheet shows.
Don't get me wrong, everyone can measure it however they want, but it's quite confusing when the information is not mentioned somewhere on it.

Last edited by Tomillia; 01-27-2026 at 09:11 PM.
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Old 01-28-2026 | 04:31 AM
  #883  
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Originally Posted by Tomillia
So it's not a typo but you have to add 10mm to the measurement in your setup-sheet to get the real value that the drawing in the sheet shows.
Don't get me wrong, everyone can measure it however they want, but it's quite confusing when the information is not mentioned somewhere on it.
I agree and will update the setup to include the measurement details.

UPDATE .... I updated my setup sheet above with additional notes.

rhodopsine please delete your quote as it still has the old screenshot
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Old 01-28-2026 | 07:25 AM
  #884  
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While I don’t use these setup sheets, I always thought that the number actually recorded should be the distance indicated in the drawing (e.g., bottom of chassis to axle center or bottom link, as indicated)

Or does that not work?
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Old 01-28-2026 | 08:09 AM
  #885  
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Originally Posted by archivist
While I don’t use these setup sheets, I always thought that the number actually recorded should be the distance indicated in the drawing (e.g., bottom of chassis to axle center or bottom link, as indicated)

Or does that not work?
Yeah, it is really confusing if everybody does it their own way. At least the information is now on the sheet, but still complicated to understand.
Like you said, it would be easier to use the real upstop values like it is intended, to spot differences in setups at first glance, without the need to study the notes on the setup sheet.
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