Team Associated TC5
03-31-2008, 01:40 PM
#5627
Tech Initiate
Hi all. This is a video of the last final in our track. Itīs difficult to say what car is mine because of the quality of the images. After all, we were fast
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYRRcPfpeUc
Whith an incredible exercise of viewing there is a car in white/black/slightpink.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYRRcPfpeUc
Whith an incredible exercise of viewing there is a car in white/black/slightpink.
03-31-2008, 03:30 PM
#5628
also ygpm.
03-31-2008, 04:09 PM
#5630
Robk,
When you push out the front arm mounts the 2 degrees, how do keep the bones end pins from binding on the alum. rings on the out drives. Am I doing something wrong or is there something I should be doing to get the bones farther in the out drives?
Thanks and God Bless
When you push out the front arm mounts the 2 degrees, how do keep the bones end pins from binding on the alum. rings on the out drives. Am I doing something wrong or is there something I should be doing to get the bones farther in the out drives?
Thanks and God Bless
03-31-2008, 04:33 PM
#5631
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Down on the corner out in the street
Posts: 249
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
I know I have posted this before but has anyone figured out what is causing the wheel bearing to fail so much?
I have been very careful NOT to hit the boards so I am sure this is not the issue. I just got through running the Texas State Championships in Dallas and I literally replaced the outside wheel bearing after each run. This is kind of negating the whole parts are cheaper theory.
I am running the stock class with all hard parts, 3 degree toe in on rear, 0 degree in front. All 4 bearing seem to be crunchy after each run. Are the factory boys replacing bearing each run?
Btw this also causes me to replace ball cups more often because I have to keep popping them off to either replace the bearings or at least check them. Any help on this would be helpful.
I have been very careful NOT to hit the boards so I am sure this is not the issue. I just got through running the Texas State Championships in Dallas and I literally replaced the outside wheel bearing after each run. This is kind of negating the whole parts are cheaper theory.
I am running the stock class with all hard parts, 3 degree toe in on rear, 0 degree in front. All 4 bearing seem to be crunchy after each run. Are the factory boys replacing bearing each run?
Btw this also causes me to replace ball cups more often because I have to keep popping them off to either replace the bearings or at least check them. Any help on this would be helpful.
03-31-2008, 05:53 PM
#5633
Robk,
When you push out the front arm mounts the 2 degrees, how do keep the bones end pins from binding on the alum. rings on the out drives. Am I doing something wrong or is there something I should be doing to get the bones farther in the out drives?
Thanks and God Bless
When you push out the front arm mounts the 2 degrees, how do keep the bones end pins from binding on the alum. rings on the out drives. Am I doing something wrong or is there something I should be doing to get the bones farther in the out drives?
Thanks and God Bless
03-31-2008, 05:57 PM
#5634
Are you guys noticing a slight drag on the steering on the initial build? I've just about got mine done as of last night and it seems like the steering from side to side seems a little tight. Do you guys leave the screws that hold the steering post slightly loose or snug them down? I've got the servo servo setup exactly as the manual states.
Also...I'm using a Robinson Racing 64p spur and could only get 2 "shorter" screws to line up correctly to hold it on. Will it be ok using 2 instead of 3?
Also...I'm using a Robinson Racing 64p spur and could only get 2 "shorter" screws to line up correctly to hold it on. Will it be ok using 2 instead of 3?
03-31-2008, 07:26 PM
#5635
robk,
Thanks for the info.
Thanks for the info.
03-31-2008, 11:35 PM
#5638
Changing the pulley size would work too. One tooth bigger center and one tooth smaller front and rear would get us to 1.86 internal. Then a 66 spur, 35 pinion would get you to 3.5 final. Now we just need some one to make after market pulleys.
04-01-2008, 10:47 AM
#5640
Robk...I'll check that out but they seemed really "free" when I was assembling them?
I'm shooting for a 4.44 FDR with a Novak 13.5 SS BL using a 100/45 64P running rubber tires on asphalt. Has anyone tried this combo and is it safer to go with a lower FDR with this motor?
I'm shooting for a 4.44 FDR with a Novak 13.5 SS BL using a 100/45 64P running rubber tires on asphalt. Has anyone tried this combo and is it safer to go with a lower FDR with this motor?