Team Associated TC5
#4876
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
Most of your complaints can be fixed with a good front bumper
http://cefxraceway.net/?mainURL=/sto...b8yi/CEFX.html
30050 Associated TC5 Kydex Bumper
The chassis honestly is plenty stiff. The bearings are not a great size. I have had an exploded bearing in the rear hub.
I ran the original diffs in the car for like 4 months, no rebuilds, before putting the aluminum halves on because I wanted to. Sweet.
Good luck
http://cefxraceway.net/?mainURL=/sto...b8yi/CEFX.html
30050 Associated TC5 Kydex Bumper
The chassis honestly is plenty stiff. The bearings are not a great size. I have had an exploded bearing in the rear hub.
I ran the original diffs in the car for like 4 months, no rebuilds, before putting the aluminum halves on because I wanted to. Sweet.
Good luck
#4877
they have them at "the Track" that is where i got mine
#4881
have you had a chance to go on the ae forums there juho and craid can answer all questions you have for the car. And that question was asked and the belts that are fine once broken in. Both belts on my car are awesome and the rear belt i cant run in the #1 anymore cause its to loose almost
#4882
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
have you had a chance to go on the ae forums there juho and craid can answer all questions you have for the car. And that question was asked and the belts that are fine once broken in. Both belts on my car are awesome and the rear belt i cant run in the #1 anymore cause its to loose almost
#4883
i will get you an answer
#4884
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
+1 on the belts being to tight. I just got finished re-building my car and had the center shaft and diffs spinning nice and free, but then I added the belts and now it wont even make a single rotation no matter how hard you turn it... I am looking for a Yokomo BD belt, but no one has them in stock. If someone finds them, please let me know.
oh yeah, and adding the BD belt wont change the trans ratio right?
oh yeah, and adding the BD belt wont change the trans ratio right?
#4885
no... i think the yok belt just has like 1 more tooth than the ae belt
** never sat down and counted
I would also like to just add that ROBK and myself do not run for associated or anything like that... we both simply have been running the cars to death on the carpet with foam tires trying to get this thing squared away. So anything we can do to help , as far as answering someones questions are comming from a couple of guys who have learned a good amount about this car . We really like the car and are only using the parts available to us and everyone else who doesnt run for associated. I just dont like that on other threads there is alot of racers helping racers and on here alot just come to bash the car. The best way to get this car running good for everyone on all types of tracks is to not bash the car but help each other out.
** never sat down and counted
I would also like to just add that ROBK and myself do not run for associated or anything like that... we both simply have been running the cars to death on the carpet with foam tires trying to get this thing squared away. So anything we can do to help , as far as answering someones questions are comming from a couple of guys who have learned a good amount about this car . We really like the car and are only using the parts available to us and everyone else who doesnt run for associated. I just dont like that on other threads there is alot of racers helping racers and on here alot just come to bash the car. The best way to get this car running good for everyone on all types of tracks is to not bash the car but help each other out.
#4886
The low friction belts will be a running change in production. I'm not sure which belts the new kits come these days. The older belt says UK on it, the newer one is UG if I remember correctly.
Even the stiffer belts are fine after they have been run for a while. I know it might take a while to run them in with a stock motor though. On the positive side they will pretty much last forever.
As for the parts durability, in my opinion the TC5 is one of the stronger cars out there. In Cleveland we ran new stiffer caster blocks and arms that are supposed to be more brittle than the standard parts. We didnt break a single part there. Everything will break at some point. It is a race car and you always have to compromise between weight and durability.
I'm not sure why the engineers chose the 6x10x4 bearings but in all honesty I dont think the size makes a huge difference on how well they last. The ceramic ones will make your drivetrain a bit free'er but will break more easily and cost 2-3 times more.
#4887
#4888
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Hardly most of the team, Craig had a Bomber belt on his rubber car to see if it made a difference. In mod you can't tell a difference.
The low friction belts will be a running change in production. I'm not sure which belts the new kits come these days. The older belt says UK on it, the newer one is UG if I remember correctly.
Even the stiffer belts are fine after they have been run for a while. I know it might take a while to run them in with a stock motor though. On the positive side they will pretty much last forever.
As for the parts durability, in my opinion the TC5 is one of the stronger cars out there. In Cleveland we ran new stiffer caster blocks and arms that are supposed to be more brittle than the standard parts. We didnt break a single part there. Everything will break at some point. It is a race car and you always have to compromise between weight and durability.
I'm not sure why the engineers chose the 6x10x4 bearings but in all honesty I dont think the size makes a huge difference on how well they last. The ceramic ones will make your drivetrain a bit free'er but will break more easily and cost 2-3 times more.
The low friction belts will be a running change in production. I'm not sure which belts the new kits come these days. The older belt says UK on it, the newer one is UG if I remember correctly.
Even the stiffer belts are fine after they have been run for a while. I know it might take a while to run them in with a stock motor though. On the positive side they will pretty much last forever.
As for the parts durability, in my opinion the TC5 is one of the stronger cars out there. In Cleveland we ran new stiffer caster blocks and arms that are supposed to be more brittle than the standard parts. We didnt break a single part there. Everything will break at some point. It is a race car and you always have to compromise between weight and durability.
I'm not sure why the engineers chose the 6x10x4 bearings but in all honesty I dont think the size makes a huge difference on how well they last. The ceramic ones will make your drivetrain a bit free'er but will break more easily and cost 2-3 times more.
thanks for the info.
#4889
diff halves
i was running a 27turn motor in my tc5 and things were cool. then i put in a 19 turn and i started melting my diff halves. the diff ring was melted into the diff half.
Anyway any pointers or suggestions on tuning my diff would be much appreciated.
are the halves known for being week or is it just me?
Holler back
Anyway any pointers or suggestions on tuning my diff would be much appreciated.
are the halves known for being week or is it just me?
Holler back
#4890
Super Moderator
iTrader: (81)
What happens or appears to happen is that the diff rings slip against the diff halves. Some were glueing the rings to the diff halves and or using a little silicone grease to help keep them secure.
If neither of these options work then you could always switch to aluminum outdrives with the pin cushions.
If neither of these options work then you could always switch to aluminum outdrives with the pin cushions.