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Old 09-02-2008, 08:44 PM
  #7126  
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Originally Posted by revo61
I would still start with 27 turn or 19 turn. A 27 turn in a touring car is much faster, than you think. Look at what classes are run on the local track. The default rubber and foam setups work ok with stock to 19 turn classes.
I'm going with a 13.5
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Old 09-02-2008, 10:20 PM
  #7127  
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Speaking from experience.....27T is pretty quick in a touring car. when i made the jump to the 13.5 it was a night and day difference. It was like going from a V6 mustang to a 500hp Corvette.
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Old 09-03-2008, 01:44 PM
  #7128  
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Originally Posted by BIG DADDY8
What is better and will hold up longer? One of my racing buddies tried the slipper spool and it would loosen up in the turns on each race. I know the regular spool has no give. So it would be easier to tear the front up when you hit things. Which is better?
Anyone have an answer????????
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Old 09-03-2008, 01:51 PM
  #7129  
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Originally Posted by BIG DADDY8
Anyone have an answer????????
Use the old style (white) t-nut in the slipper spool with plenty of blue loctite on it and the slipper spool won't loosen on you. You then will get the performance of a spool with durability b/c it will slip on a crash.

With the solid you will break blades and then the dogbone will dig into the aluminum and it will begin to develop "play" in it.
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Old 09-03-2008, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Josh H
I ran hard arms, castor blocks and steering knuckles.
Josh-

Was there a specific reason you ran the hard parts, or is it what you had? In my thinking the hard parts are more suited for the foam car, but on carpet i could see how it might work as well.

Thanks,
Art
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Old 09-03-2008, 02:22 PM
  #7131  
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Originally Posted by artwork
Josh-

Was there a specific reason you ran the hard parts, or is it what you had? In my thinking the hard parts are more suited for the foam car, but on carpet i could see how it might work as well.

Thanks,
Art
Art,

As traction comes up I find that hard parts are more consistant, also I feel that they have a little more corner speed.
For club racing I don't think there is a difference......unless you race on a very high bite track.

Josh
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Old 09-03-2008, 02:26 PM
  #7132  
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I"m starting to see "a lot" of play in the rear hub carriers when I grip the rear wheels and toggle 'em. Is this normal? The bearings feel smooth and there are no cracks in the hubs, cvd's are straight.
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Old 09-03-2008, 03:05 PM
  #7133  
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Originally Posted by BobbyS
I"m starting to see "a lot" of play in the rear hub carriers when I grip the rear wheels and toggle 'em. Is this normal? The bearings feel smooth and there are no cracks in the hubs, cvd's are straight.
Could be either the rear hub or the arm...If you start noticing some inconsistencies in the car then I would look at replacing them. It is a nice feeling to replace a part due to wear then due to breakage embrace it!
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Old 09-03-2008, 03:45 PM
  #7134  
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Originally Posted by or8ital
Use the old style (white) t-nut in the slipper spool with plenty of blue loctite on it and the slipper spool won't loosen on you. You then will get the performance of a spool with durability b/c it will slip on a crash.

With the solid you will break blades and then the dogbone will dig into the aluminum and it will begin to develop "play" in it.
Do you know of a part #?
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Old 09-03-2008, 03:56 PM
  #7135  
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Originally Posted by artwork
It is a nice feeling to replace a part due to wear then due to breakage embrace it!
I do! I do!

Last edited by BobbyS; 09-03-2008 at 04:13 PM.
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Old 09-03-2008, 04:20 PM
  #7136  
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Originally Posted by BIG DADDY8
Do you know of a part #?

The one in this kit --> http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPA07&P=7
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Old 09-03-2008, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by BIG DADDY8
Do you know of a part #?
I will look and see. There is a part that is just the nut and screw. Don't need to buy the whole rebuild kit for the TC3.
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Old 09-03-2008, 04:57 PM
  #7138  
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Originally Posted by BobbyS
I"m starting to see "a lot" of play in the rear hub carriers when I grip the rear wheels and toggle 'em. Is this normal? The bearings feel smooth and there are no cracks in the hubs, cvd's are straight.
Sometimes it helps to score the hub where the bearing fits in a radial pattern with a xacto knife. This slightly raises the edge of the hub where the bearing goes and tightens things up.
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Old 09-03-2008, 06:56 PM
  #7139  
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Originally Posted by AssocRacer
Speaking from experience.....27T is pretty quick in a touring car. when i made the jump to the 13.5 it was a night and day difference. It was like going from a V6 mustang to a 500hp Corvette.
I think I can handle a 13.5
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Old 09-03-2008, 07:17 PM
  #7140  
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Guys,

I love associated cars I have a T4 now (for whatever that's worth)...anyway I have never had good luck building Associated shocks...I even have Losi's on my truck.

As far as the TC5 goes how are the shocks? Are they the same or are they more Tamiya"ish"?

I am looking hard at the TC5...just need some feedback on what I have always had a hard time with...sorry if this is a dumb question...

Paul
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