Team Associated TC5
07-07-2010, 05:49 AM
Tech Adept
It sounds like you're trying to use the foam tire setup.
There is more than 1 default setup at the end of the manual.
The foam tire default setup uses 1 degree Rear Hub carriers, 1.5 degree FWD shims (these are the middle thickness shims) and then 3.5 degree rear shims To get 3.5 you need to use the 1.5 and the 2 degree shims.
The foam tire setup is using the shims to widen the front and rear track width AND add rear toe.
Toe from rear shims = 3.5 (RWD) - 1.5 (FWD) = 2 degrees
Toe from rear hub = 1 degree
Total toe at rear = 2 + 1 = 3 degrees as listed in the setup sheet.
You need to put the thickest shims (2 degrees) on the FWD and RWD Front arm mount bolts as well to widen the front track width.
07-08-2010, 01:42 PM
Hey guys, what pinion size should I be running on the stock spur gear for a 17.5 Tekin redline? (With tekin rs esc)
07-08-2010, 04:23 PM
Suspended
Lipo battery brace question
I bought the AE factory brace tray/ retainer for my TC5FT. no installation instructions but I want to make sure I keep my Lipo from shifting to the inside of the car and rubbing against the pinion gear or belts.
Can I install it so that the long side of the brace is on the inner side, stopping said slippage? Or is it a one-way-only install?
I saw the AE website pics, for it, but it's assembled in the car and then they added the lipo weights which makes me ask this very question
Can I install it so that the long side of the brace is on the inner side, stopping said slippage? Or is it a one-way-only install?
I saw the AE website pics, for it, but it's assembled in the car and then they added the lipo weights which makes me ask this very question
07-08-2010, 08:09 PM
Tech Initiate
I was referencing the default rubber tire setup.
It sounds like you're trying to use the foam tire setup.
There is more than 1 default setup at the end of the manual.
The foam tire default setup uses 1 degree Rear Hub carriers, 1.5 degree FWD shims (these are the middle thickness shims) and then 3.5 degree rear shims To get 3.5 you need to use the 1.5 and the 2 degree shims.
The foam tire setup is using the shims to widen the front and rear track width AND add rear toe.
Toe from rear shims = 3.5 (RWD) - 1.5 (FWD) = 2 degrees
Toe from rear hub = 1 degree
Total toe at rear = 2 + 1 = 3 degrees as listed in the setup sheet.
You need to put the thickest shims (2 degrees) on the FWD and RWD Front arm mount bolts as well to widen the front track width.
It sounds like you're trying to use the foam tire setup.
There is more than 1 default setup at the end of the manual.
The foam tire default setup uses 1 degree Rear Hub carriers, 1.5 degree FWD shims (these are the middle thickness shims) and then 3.5 degree rear shims To get 3.5 you need to use the 1.5 and the 2 degree shims.
The foam tire setup is using the shims to widen the front and rear track width AND add rear toe.
Toe from rear shims = 3.5 (RWD) - 1.5 (FWD) = 2 degrees
Toe from rear hub = 1 degree
Total toe at rear = 2 + 1 = 3 degrees as listed in the setup sheet.
You need to put the thickest shims (2 degrees) on the FWD and RWD Front arm mount bolts as well to widen the front track width.
As the uprights for the rubber kit are zero deg toe I need to achieve the 3 deg (Total) by using shims alone. Using a 1.5deg shim to the rear on each side will give me a TOTAL of 3deg (on the assumption that using a 1.5deg shim will give 1.5deg toe on that side of the car).
Sorry to go on about this particularly as this subject has been touched on before. I'm just trying avoid having to take it apart when it goes on the setup board.
Thanks
Tim
07-09-2010, 03:35 AM
I'm new to the TC5R and am also a bit confused by the shims. According to the kit setup sheet I'm looking for a TOTAL rear toe of 3deg.
As the uprights for the rubber kit are zero deg toe I need to achieve the 3 deg (Total) by using shims alone. Using a 1.5deg shim to the rear on each side will give me a TOTAL of 3deg (on the assumption that using a 1.5deg shim will give 1.5deg toe on that side of the car).
Sorry to go on about this particularly as this subject has been touched on before. I'm just trying avoid having to take it apart when it goes on the setup board.
Thanks
Tim
As the uprights for the rubber kit are zero deg toe I need to achieve the 3 deg (Total) by using shims alone. Using a 1.5deg shim to the rear on each side will give me a TOTAL of 3deg (on the assumption that using a 1.5deg shim will give 1.5deg toe on that side of the car).
Sorry to go on about this particularly as this subject has been touched on before. I'm just trying avoid having to take it apart when it goes on the setup board.
Thanks
Tim
You should run 3 degrees on both sides. I think when it says total it means total of shims+hubs.
Regards
Neal
07-09-2010, 04:38 AM
Tech Adept
I'm new to the TC5R and am also a bit confused by the shims. According to the kit setup sheet I'm looking for a TOTAL rear toe of 3deg.
As the uprights for the rubber kit are zero deg toe I need to achieve the 3 deg (Total) by using shims alone. Using a 1.5deg shim to the rear on each side will give me a TOTAL of 3deg (on the assumption that using a 1.5deg shim will give 1.5deg toe on that side of the car).
Sorry to go on about this particularly as this subject has been touched on before. I'm just trying avoid having to take it apart when it goes on the setup board.
Thanks
Tim
As the uprights for the rubber kit are zero deg toe I need to achieve the 3 deg (Total) by using shims alone. Using a 1.5deg shim to the rear on each side will give me a TOTAL of 3deg (on the assumption that using a 1.5deg shim will give 1.5deg toe on that side of the car).
Sorry to go on about this particularly as this subject has been touched on before. I'm just trying avoid having to take it apart when it goes on the setup board.
Thanks
Tim
You don't have to take the car apart to change the shims. You can loosen the arm mount bolts with only the wheels removed by using a long 2mm ball hex driver similar to this http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVHK3&P=7 by poking it through the bulkhead cut outs and then just add or remove shims easily. The TC5r kit comes with a 2mm ball allan key hex driver I think. The rear most arm mount bolts can be adjusted easily with that but the forward ones are a bit harder cos the driver in the kit is a bit short.
07-09-2010, 04:42 AM
Tech Initiate
Originally Posted by Redwood;
Hey Tim,
You should run 3 degrees on both sides. I think when it says total it means total of shims+hubs.
Regards
Neal
You should run 3 degrees on both sides. I think when it says total it means total of shims+hubs.
Regards
Neal
Tim
07-09-2010, 04:50 AM
Tech Initiate
It's total per side. Shims + hub.
You don't have to take the car apart to change the shims. You can loosen the arm mount bolts with only the wheels removed by using a long 2mm ball hex driver similar to this http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVHK3&P=7 by poking it through the bulkhead cut outs and then just add or remove shims easily. The TC5r kit comes with a 2mm ball allan key hex driver I think. The rear most arm mount bolts can be adjusted easily with that but the forward ones are a bit harder cos the driver in the kit is a bit short.
You don't have to take the car apart to change the shims. You can loosen the arm mount bolts with only the wheels removed by using a long 2mm ball hex driver similar to this http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVHK3&P=7 by poking it through the bulkhead cut outs and then just add or remove shims easily. The TC5r kit comes with a 2mm ball allan key hex driver I think. The rear most arm mount bolts can be adjusted easily with that but the forward ones are a bit harder cos the driver in the kit is a bit short.
Tim
07-09-2010, 05:09 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
Try between 18-25, it will be determined by the track size and speedy settings, when I was using the Tekin 17.5 I had an FDR of around 8:1. I think I'm currently geared to 7.4:1 with my Speed Passion 17.5.
07-09-2010, 07:45 AM
Awesome, Thanks for the help. I'm going to be running it at NorCal Hobbies in CA -Pretty fast open track with two big straights. I'm thinking a 20+ tooth pinion with esc (tekin RS) settings would work, sound like a good idea?
07-09-2010, 05:08 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
I'm not familiar with that track, I do however race on a 1:5th scale track which for 17.5 the car is at full throttle most of the time.
07-10-2010, 07:05 PM
Suspended
Using CA glue to build a diff?
Please - nice to throw off the balance from human error applying the glue - nice shortcut AE. And yet they use Solidworks!!!!!!!
Last edited by dragnse7en; 07-10-2010 at 07:20 PM.
07-10-2010, 07:15 PM
Suspended
Diff sims between the CAM?
NOT available on the FT kit but it needs it hardcore
07-10-2010, 10:22 PM
Suspended
Thanks for the total lack of hepl :)
I threw my TC5 in the trash - took all the M3 screws out for a backup for spares.
A "factory team" lately has been a TOTAL disapointment.
Vague support from AE on the phone, shallow instructions although I use Pro E, Solidworks, and a full AutoDesk Suite myself.
AE has sold out.
If you wanna complain or whine about my bitch, download their current instructions VS their old and full instructions. If I submitted a Solidworks Assy guide on that caliber I would kill myself, and the whole AE department should fall on their swords for the same very reason.
The TC5 is an attempt of a re-hash abortion of the old skool TRF415, with nothing but sloppy tolerances, espcially with their "innovated" bulkhead mounted front and rear arms.
I would've been fired for publishing that crap, never mind the current instructions.
So, happy hunting - if the TC6 is even halfway built like this, which is exactly what I've seen, then I salute you all while you swear my name under your breath as I beat you on the track with any other car.
Point blank.
A "factory team" lately has been a TOTAL disapointment.
Vague support from AE on the phone, shallow instructions although I use Pro E, Solidworks, and a full AutoDesk Suite myself.
AE has sold out.
If you wanna complain or whine about my bitch, download their current instructions VS their old and full instructions. If I submitted a Solidworks Assy guide on that caliber I would kill myself, and the whole AE department should fall on their swords for the same very reason.
The TC5 is an attempt of a re-hash abortion of the old skool TRF415, with nothing but sloppy tolerances, espcially with their "innovated" bulkhead mounted front and rear arms.
I would've been fired for publishing that crap, never mind the current instructions.
So, happy hunting - if the TC6 is even halfway built like this, which is exactly what I've seen, then I salute you all while you swear my name under your breath as I beat you on the track with any other car.
Point blank.
07-11-2010, 12:50 PM
I threw my TC5 in the trash - took all the M3 screws out for a backup for spares.
A "factory team" lately has been a TOTAL disapointment.
Vague support from AE on the phone, shallow instructions although I use Pro E, Solidworks, and a full AutoDesk Suite myself.
AE has sold out.
If you wanna complain or whine about my bitch, download their current instructions VS their old and full instructions. If I submitted a Solidworks Assy guide on that caliber I would kill myself, and the whole AE department should fall on their swords for the same very reason.
The TC5 is an attempt of a re-hash abortion of the old skool TRF415, with nothing but sloppy tolerances, espcially with their "innovated" bulkhead mounted front and rear arms.
I would've been fired for publishing that crap, never mind the current instructions.
So, happy hunting - if the TC6 is even halfway built like this, which is exactly what I've seen, then I salute you all while you swear my name under your breath as I beat you on the track with any other car.
Point blank.
A "factory team" lately has been a TOTAL disapointment.
Vague support from AE on the phone, shallow instructions although I use Pro E, Solidworks, and a full AutoDesk Suite myself.
AE has sold out.
If you wanna complain or whine about my bitch, download their current instructions VS their old and full instructions. If I submitted a Solidworks Assy guide on that caliber I would kill myself, and the whole AE department should fall on their swords for the same very reason.
The TC5 is an attempt of a re-hash abortion of the old skool TRF415, with nothing but sloppy tolerances, espcially with their "innovated" bulkhead mounted front and rear arms.
I would've been fired for publishing that crap, never mind the current instructions.
So, happy hunting - if the TC6 is even halfway built like this, which is exactly what I've seen, then I salute you all while you swear my name under your breath as I beat you on the track with any other car.
Point blank.
