hav_lova

iTrader: (4)

I'm a bit late on this topic guys, on the topic of fast 540's i've done all sorts of crazy things with them, most were destoryed in my enthusiasm to find some miracle way of making fast 540's. But i had one that would touch 16,000rpm at 5V!!!! and it was 100% legal, i'm all against cheating i would volunteer to scrutineer 540 just to discourage cheaters. Anyways the motor never hit the track glueing my tyres i split CA on the motor and glued the amature in one spot. I have had a 540 working up to 20,000 rpm then throw a winding, i won't say what voltage it was at but it wasnt the 7.2 usually required. I'm still stumped as to why it threw a winding....

Mabuchi540

That's odd my dad used to work in a factory that used them for dust busters when I first raced and I've got a pile of them around here somewhere.

As for the kerosene trick, I used to clean out the motor after a race day by submerging the entire can in the stuff while it was running and then flushing it with (well I forgot the long winded name but it's called 'trike' or dry cleaning fluid)...worked a treat.

AUSSIE BOB

iTrader: (6)

Do not use Trike, it is short for a bloody long name that is a chemical that is fatal even if it goes onto your skin a few times and it stays in your system, like lead, they banned it years ago in Australia, i think it is called Carbontecklochorid or similar, someone will know, but dont use that for $%#$% sake. The best is WD40 or motor cleaner, a lot safer.
BOB

Mabuchi540

(an Australian company btw) contains:

700g/kg of tetrachloroethylene in a 500g can.

"tetrachloroethylene" is dry cleaning fluid.

Perhaps the 'trike' part was wrong but that's what I've always called it.

Major edit: Trike = tri-chloroethylene

Dry cleaning fluid = tetra-chloroethylene

The tetra one still needs precautions (gloves) but I've never seen anything better for cleaning a comm on a 540!!!!

AUSSIE BOB

iTrader: (6)

Mate, if you need gloves to use it, count me out
AUSSIE BOB

Mabuchi540

to use gloves it's just that out of the can on your skin it can get incredible cold, probably freezing.

On a motor it can sometimes ice over, sort of like you get on a windscreen, just depends on what the day itself is like. But if it's a cold day the motor can get to cold to touch (hence the gloves).

peejay

It cleans stuff. Put an old penny in your glass of coke and see what happens

nikkiesteban

iTrader: (5)

can i just put the silver can into a glass with water and direct it on a battery and spins it for about half a minute? will it help to clean the motor?

Mabuchi540

but having done that for many years back in the late 80's early 90's the thing I found most important is to listen for the pitch of the motor to change. Once it's in the water on a fully charged battery at some point in the first minute there will be a noticable change in the sound that it makes. As soon as the sound changes take the motor out and it should be screaming its head off. Leaving the motor in beyond the point that the noise changes is pointless. Also rather than water you can try kerosene, but no matter what you use once ou take the motor out flush it through with electrical contact cleaner.

Teddygoat

iTrader: (4)

If you guys are looking for a fluid that can help clean a 540 motor, try adding Harpic toilet cleaner to your water, about a teaspoon to 250ml of water. Run your motor in this for a few minutes and you'll have a com that sparkles! It also safe!

Teddygoat

iTrader: (4)

OH forgot to mention thats between 3 and 4v

xrayroooahhhh

iTrader: (12)

Is this a acidic bowl cleaner or a milder enviro-friendly type????

Teddygoat

iTrader: (4)

Its active ingrediient is Benzalkonium chloride 0.32% m/m, so it slightly acidic, its also mountine pine sent, so my motor smells good all day!

muahdib4

Ok, I figured I'd ask here since some discussions on other boards keep leaning towards major changes in the hobby to slow racers down rather than start a class based on silvercan motors. I keep getting told that it's real easy to open one, make changes, advance the timing and all that though nobody can show me how. I've read through this thread and the concensus seems to be that you can't open one without causing enough damage that if you could get it back together, it wouldn't pass a basic tech inspection...right? I've been racing them in my M03s for a while and never tried to open one and have no need to but I'd like to know if these people are right in saying that it's easy and everyone does it.

loopedeloop

Apparently they are easy to open but very difficult to put back together without leaving signs that it has been opened.
Its easy to advance timing but also easy to check current draw on a motor checker.
Over here we are enforcing a 1.7A max current unloaded at 8 volts.
If your motor draws close to the limit it is subject to a 2nd test in reverse direction. If the current draw is different the tech person can disqualify you as this points to the motor being "timed".

Best just to leave it alone and run it in properly for the best performance.

You will spend the rest of your life trying to shake off the label "CHEATER"

It just aint worth it