Silver Can Motor Tips/Tricks
#361
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
Originally Posted by rccardr
1) It is not possible to open a modern silver can motor and put it back together without it being very obvious. Period.
2) It is not possible to crank a modern silver can motor (advance the timing) without killing it due to the cam lock installed when it is manufactured. Period.
3) It is possible to advance the timing slightly on a modern silver can motor using a magnet zapper, but while RPM goes up, torque goes waaaaaay down.
Take it from someone who's been there for a long time (check out the avatar): if you want a fast silver can motor, buy A LOT OF THEM, test them all, water dip and break in the fastest ones, and sell the rest to the kids in the neighborhood. Ask pretty much anyone in TCS: my silver cans ROCK...and they are legal. Including the amp draw thing.
2) It is not possible to crank a modern silver can motor (advance the timing) without killing it due to the cam lock installed when it is manufactured. Period.
3) It is possible to advance the timing slightly on a modern silver can motor using a magnet zapper, but while RPM goes up, torque goes waaaaaay down.
Take it from someone who's been there for a long time (check out the avatar): if you want a fast silver can motor, buy A LOT OF THEM, test them all, water dip and break in the fastest ones, and sell the rest to the kids in the neighborhood. Ask pretty much anyone in TCS: my silver cans ROCK...and they are legal. Including the amp draw thing.
#362
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
I wouldn't argue with someone's experience, all I can say is I've seen the Dremel trick from start to finish. Out of the dozen or so cans I've seen and heard this trick run on only three tossed windings and blew. There's no scientific way to go about the Dremel trick without possible damage but it does always create a draw that's well over the 1.6amp TCS limit.
Personally I just pickup a silver can at the LHS and race, if I get a slower can I just adjust the gear ratio to get the most out of it anyway. Silver can classes are mostly a "fun class" in my area so I don't use the Dremel trick, I just break in the motor with a glass of water and the motor break-in feature on my charger for 8 minutes @ 2 volts.
In all honesty cheating to win is like cheating to beat a video game, the cheater is the only one happy at the end of the day.
Personally I just pickup a silver can at the LHS and race, if I get a slower can I just adjust the gear ratio to get the most out of it anyway. Silver can classes are mostly a "fun class" in my area so I don't use the Dremel trick, I just break in the motor with a glass of water and the motor break-in feature on my charger for 8 minutes @ 2 volts.
In all honesty cheating to win is like cheating to beat a video game, the cheater is the only one happy at the end of the day.
#364
Ok here's a question...
Whats the difference between an RS-540j and an RS-540SH?
I have bought both of them, trying to figure out if there is a difference, and so far all I can see is that the 540j comes in a Tamiya box, where as the 540SH comes with a mabuchi sticker on it and no box.
Anyone who is enlightened on the this topic, please share.
Whats the difference between an RS-540j and an RS-540SH?
I have bought both of them, trying to figure out if there is a difference, and so far all I can see is that the 540j comes in a Tamiya box, where as the 540SH comes with a mabuchi sticker on it and no box.
Anyone who is enlightened on the this topic, please share.
#366
Tech Lord
iTrader: (86)
Originally Posted by PeteB
Ok here's a question...
Whats the difference between an RS-540j and an RS-540SH?
I have bought both of them, trying to figure out if there is a difference, and so far all I can see is that the 540j comes in a Tamiya box, where as the 540SH comes with a mabuchi sticker on it and no box.
Anyone who is enlightened on the this topic, please share.
Whats the difference between an RS-540j and an RS-540SH?
I have bought both of them, trying to figure out if there is a difference, and so far all I can see is that the 540j comes in a Tamiya box, where as the 540SH comes with a mabuchi sticker on it and no box.
Anyone who is enlightened on the this topic, please share.
than the RS-540SH ...The RS-540SH motor are one step better than stock 540 ...
be careful some of the new J motor come with very soft brushes or hard ( Don't break in the water ....the soft brushes )
#368
From my experience, the 540-J performance is better than the "normal" Mabuchi 540.
#369
Tech Lord
iTrader: (26)
Originally Posted by OVA
540J is perfect for TC because the J motor have more torque and RPM
than the RS-540SH ...The RS-540SH motor are one step better than stock 540 ...
be careful some of the new J motor come with very soft brushes or hard ( Don't break in the water ....the soft brushes )
than the RS-540SH ...The RS-540SH motor are one step better than stock 540 ...
be careful some of the new J motor come with very soft brushes or hard ( Don't break in the water ....the soft brushes )
#370
Originally Posted by nexxus
How do the J motors go as for durability, we all use Sports Tuneds and after 2-3 runs geared competitively, they're pretty much shot!
I replace my motor after a pointscore series, (10 weeks x 4 races, plus practice and warmups.)
If looked after and kept squeaky clean the motor actually gets better, and should last ages.
or maybe Im not gearing it correctly. i run about a rollout of about 40mm on a relativly tight track.
#373
Tech Lord
iTrader: (86)
Originally Posted by nexxus
How do the J motors go as for durability, we all use Sports Tuneds and after 2-3 runs geared competitively, they're pretty much shot!