Yea F1 cars are super sensitive to track conditions. Its probably best to tune your car during high grip conditions (after a race day or in the last few hours of a packed practice session day)

F1 cars love fresh asphalt only, no old greyed surface...

yes lol I believe a big issues I was having was an overly tightened diff

Ok....That can be a big issue too....

I don't agree. When asphalt is deployed, a chemical is used to ensure that it won't stick to the steamroller. This is what make the asphalt black. Years after years, the chemical will be washed and the structure of the asphalt will change because gravels in will settle down. It will make bigger "holes" in the asphalt to trap the dust and it will enhance the grip. That's what we note on our recent track. I can show you pictures so you can see the color changing, and we have history of best laps also :-)

where’s your track?

Geneva, Switzerland.

This is how it was when it was delivered (2016) :
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3T...-no?authuser=0
And now:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hV...-no?authuser=0
Please ignore the huge metallic structure lol

F1 cars on asphault are very sensitive to proper set up and tires. One of the hardest classes to become fast in. But when you keep working at it and truly get it figured out, it will reward you with many podiums and lots of great days at the track. And turn you into an excellent driver as your reward :)
As long as the asphalt is clean and dust free, almost any asphalt is no problem for a well set up F1 car.

I ran a Nikko f1 with a 10t brushed motor at 5.0fdr at FBF with exceptional handling on freshly laid asphalt, but after the track greyed out, I could not even get a 27t stock motor in the same Nikko to go around the track without spinning out at every turn...I was hounding the tc nitro bashers with my 10t nikko(50+mph) on fresh asphalt, but I could not get over 25mph on grey asphalt without losing control: no way old asphalt has better grip than freshly laid asphalt....

Ok, I'm going have to block you again Bert.

"Nikko F1"..... C'mon man :rolleyes::weird::rolleyes::weird:

That's exactly my point Dan, a Nikko is not tunable at all, and is entirely dependant on surface traction: good traction on fresh asphalt, bad traction on old asphalt...

Arrowmax V2 gear diff, who has used it? Experience, pros and cons? Is it tough? I need a strong rear axle.

Only car that I've found it fit right on is the exotech ultra or shui icon. Was not very impressed with it. Just my opinion but the x-ray seems to be the better choice.

I have used/use it. From the V1 where the axle would bend on the gear side, the V2 carbon axle has a better design on that end. Unfortunately the V2 axle is a hollow carbon design, and when you hang the big extended F1 tire on the non diff side the axle will break rather easy. I never got a chance to try this, but I wonder if you where to put a fiberglass rod into the hollow part of the carbon axle, if that would make it stronger overall.
Since I broke mine, if figured I would cut it apart to see what it was made like. I managed to save the gear side stub. So I picked up some stainless steel tubing with the proper outside and inside dimensions, so the stub would slip into the tubing. I ended up pressing the stub into the tubing, using red loctite, to glue it in, and then I drilled it and pinned it so it won't come out. I have only given it one run, but intentionally smacked some boards to see if it would bend or break, and so far it has survived.

But to answer your question, the V2 isn't any better, LOL.

F1 front tyres seem to have quite some play (1-2 degrees), most part of it seems to come from the bearings. Has anyone looked into this and found a solution?