Seems to be a common problem with F1. If everything is really flat and same height without tires, then there is a good chance your tires are slightly different heights. I know my rear tires are off slightly, haven't measured my fronts. I think my rears are off by .3mm (Gravity premounts). Need to figure out how to balance mine too, they are horribly wobbly. Anyway, I can generally get my car to between .25 - .5.mm difference from side to side, measured at the links. But any tweak can make it worse. I have an xray x1 2019, and the spot that tweaks the most are the posts that the servo mounts on. Also the standoffs that the arms mount to bend quite easily and it only takes a very slight bend to cause symmetry problems.

Non matching or flipped rear bearing axle insets?

I was recently given a fenix gear diff that needs some work done to it. Looks like I need to replace the sun gears that are built into the case. I have heard that this gear diff leaks like sieve. Has anyone come up with something to seal it better? Spools do not seem to work on our short black carpet track and I am hoping to try the gear diff out. Any recommended starting points for viscosity?

I ran one before the XRay Sealed gear diff was released. It did work well with silicone greases, not oils. I ran 500k-1million cst depending on tractoin on black carpet. I experimented with 2.5 million cst for a "spool" feel and did not like it.

My Roche Evo USA spec is diffin out coming out of a corner running on Black carpet with CRC tires, what would be the quick fix? Currently I have stock springs up front, lighter than stock side springs with a relatively tight ball diffs.

- Remove the caged thrust balls from the thrust bearing and run the grooved washers against each other with some black grease. This will allow a much tighter ball diff without that notchy feeling.

- Run less caster.

I've changed to many things again and have de tuned myself into confusion. Is there a most single way to correct this issue? I know it is a rear traction level issue, but say you have a single set of tires and one compound, from manufacture X, that is spec'd for your race.
What settings need to be changed to correct on-power over steer? I'm talking very little throttle starts the rotation which leads you to spinning out, facing oncoming traffic.
Also, what changes are necessary to create crisp turn-in off power?
My car does both, it won't turn in, then spins out when the throttle is applied. I'm using a locked diff. TIA

I would get rid of the locked diff unless traction is totally insane.
No diff, - no turn in, no traction on launch unless the track is totally grooved in. A gear diff would be the way to go.

I had the fenix diff, but honestly, its totally outdated ever since the xray one came out.

For Asphalt, you’re looking at a thickness of 450-3k

For Carpet, its 2k-100k

It all depends on grip, if its low, use a lower thickness, if its high, use a higher thickness.

My recommendation is to start low and only increase if you are diff-ing out on throttle coming out of corners. If you are spinning out on throttle, that means your oil is too thick

Has anyone use SXT slime to break in tire, or is wd40 soak better?

I just read this entire thread and I don't even have a F1 car. I do however have a Roche P10 for WGTR and have found the info very useful. Thanks to all contributors.

I've used SXT Slime to break in VTA tires and it's far superior to using WD40 or anything else. Much faster and less stinky/messy!

My F6 really handles well on our infield of our track but at high speed down the straight, when I turn in it just DARTS in and if to early and I try to correct it the car gets super out of control. I've got about 9 degrees caster, 2 degrees of camber and .016 front springs. I'm running Schumacher 571 fronts and 575 rears. If you can provide me some input that would be great. NEW tires are my first solution.

What type of track? Asphalt?
Carpet?

2* camber is a lot. Try 0.5* or 1* and go from there. Toe??