649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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07-08-2016, 09:54 AM
#1234
For those of you asking about longer shocks in the rear.... If you add 30mm shocks to a b6d even with a lay down you literately will be driving your b5m with a lay down box and i find it hilarious that all these mods just make the b6d more and more like the b5m
07-08-2016, 09:57 AM
#1235
You are missing numerous differences. I'll start witht the reverse steering rack, weight bias, shock cups, axel height... You can google the rest.
07-08-2016, 09:58 AM
#1236
Brent Thiekle just posted this:
"#B6Tip for your @teamassociatedrc #B6 or #B6D. If you're not able to get full throw to the right, this ballstud may be too high. With all the different servos, servo horns and tolerance build-up, the articulation of the drag link may be the limiting factor.
The kit calls for 1mm here, but I had to go to 0 in order to get full throw."
Follow him in FB for a pic.
"#B6Tip for your @teamassociatedrc #B6 or #B6D. If you're not able to get full throw to the right, this ballstud may be too high. With all the different servos, servo horns and tolerance build-up, the articulation of the drag link may be the limiting factor.
The kit calls for 1mm here, but I had to go to 0 in order to get full throw."
Follow him in FB for a pic.
now i can sleep at night....
07-08-2016, 12:33 PM
#1240
Stickit1 has chassis protectors ready to go.
07-08-2016, 12:45 PM
#1242
That needs to be updated. The OEM AE horn has a significant raised portion where the ball stud bolts on.
I'm sure you could make it work, but just buy the OEM piece.
