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Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Originally Posted by kdub
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 02-10-2018, 09:19 PM
  #8626  
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Yup, and the .1 and .1D are the same also.

IIRC with the exception of the RC10T (which was 2.25) it has been 2.6 since the original RC10. I could be wrong though, that is based off of 30+ years memory.
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Old 02-10-2018, 09:50 PM
  #8627  
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Default Nice thread Budda

Budda whatever happens very nice thread, job well done.
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Old 02-11-2018, 12:39 AM
  #8628  
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The chassis being shorter is probably my favorite new feature. The "Cavs/Evans" of the world have been running a short chassis on the current car for a while now. Claims are it helps the car a ton.
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Old 02-11-2018, 02:10 AM
  #8629  
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Would you guys think there will be Conversion Kit? Seems like lots of details changed so in my opinion it will either be like 200$ or not an option at all?
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Old 02-11-2018, 03:09 AM
  #8630  
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Originally Posted by man1ac
Would you guys think there will be Conversion Kit? Seems like lots of details changed so in my opinion it will either be like 200$ or not an option at all?
I believe it was said in a Jconcepts interview that they would not be a conversion package offered. I doubt it will make sense to update give'n just the cost of the new chassis and slipper/top shaft would be not including everything else but we'll have to wait until we see the manual.
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Old 02-11-2018, 06:23 AM
  #8631  
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If you use A Main pricing as a guide, guesstimating what parts are needed to make your own conversion, chassis, arms, gear box, motor plate, c block, top shaft etc etc, you'd be looking at about $175. When a new kit is $320, smart money buys a fresh kit for summer.
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Old 02-11-2018, 06:31 AM
  #8632  
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Yea, thought so. Darn. Kit in Germany is like 360$ so even 170$ would be "not a bad deal"

Problem is I need to know which upgrade parts are most likely transferable from my B6D to the new one?
Maybe soneone can help so I dont sell more stuff than I need to:

> VRP Front and Rear Tower
> Ti Turnbuckles
> Alum Steering
> Brass C and D (these ones would be important since the cost a f***load of money)
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Old 02-11-2018, 09:07 AM
  #8633  
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Will the new car have enough weight in the back to handle a good old outdoor dirttrack I wounder? Shocks in the back and loads of rear brass perhaps...
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Old 02-11-2018, 09:23 AM
  #8634  
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Originally Posted by magnushedqvist
Will the new car have enough weight in the back to handle a good old outdoor dirttrack I wounder? Shocks in the back and loads of rear brass perhaps...
There will be an optional stand up gearbox so dirt won't be a problem.
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Old 02-11-2018, 11:40 AM
  #8635  
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BT and Rivkin both said on Facebook that they weren't planning to offer a conversion
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Old 02-11-2018, 04:47 PM
  #8636  
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Originally Posted by 1/4milecrazy
I dont either. But you seriously cant come on here criticizing me for criticizing others. ||Its the same story EVERY single time a new car comes out, people want A, B and C and AE gives us B and lets those who need A and B acquire it on their own because the other half of the country needs B, D and E.

I welcome ALL different ideas and THAT is what my post is about in the first place. That AE gives us a basic car and lets us buy the parts we need/want and not give us a car that has a bunch of crap that is popular on one coast more than the other.

Like everyone complaining about a fan mount location. How many people run this car in mod and dont run fans? Why should AE design a car around one class? It gets old. Having been around the hobby I would think you have seen the trend of crying over the the old car not being good enough but the new car not being exactly what THEY want. I see people still complaining about there not being a rear motor option. It just gets old after a while. And then you throw in your life experience at me and then say you weren't trying to impress anyone. This is not a pissing contest. I made a comment and you attacked me over it. At least that's how I saw it.
I made a fan comment because 17.5 & 13.5 Is a Very popular class & the fan definitely helps. lol. I agree with that you said especially about( That AE gives us a basic car and lets us buy the parts we need/want and not give us a car that has a bunch of crap that is popular on one coast more than the other.) & that is a perfect example of why they NEVER did the T6 yet,(as told from a AE source) because it isnt as popular there but its HUGE here...
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Old 02-11-2018, 11:43 PM
  #8637  
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Originally Posted by man1ac
Yea, thought so. Darn. Kit in Germany is like 360$ so even 170$ would be "not a bad deal"

Problem is I need to know which upgrade parts are most likely transferable from my B6D to the new one?
Maybe soneone can help so I dont sell more stuff than I need to:

> VRP Front and Rear Tower
> Ti Turnbuckles
> Alum Steering
> Brass C and D (these ones would be important since the cost a f***load of money)
Front tower but not sure you would want too. Same with the rear

Steering and turnbuckles will transfer

They 6.1 now had an aluminum D block which is nice so maybe you can get away with the stock stuff and add weight elsewhere because I don’t think the current ones you have will transfer over to the 6.1
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Old 02-12-2018, 12:21 AM
  #8638  
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Originally Posted by buggybattle
Front tower but not sure you would want too. Same with the rear

Steering and turnbuckles will transfer

They 6.1 now had an aluminum D block which is nice so maybe you can get away with the stock stuff and add weight elsewhere because I don’t think the current ones you have will transfer over to the 6.1
Thanks. So I'll probably need new Cs and Ds.
I drive on a complete oldschool dirt track, so rear traction is the main thing u need.

New car is 230,- at the moment here so I should get about 150 bucks for my nearly used one...not bad though.

So what's the best price for the B6.1D currently? Any crazy discounts like when the B64 came out.

Last edited by man1ac; 02-12-2018 at 12:33 AM.
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Old 02-12-2018, 04:02 PM
  #8639  
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Default Front Shock Tower

Haven't broken a front shock tower, but was going to buy a spare....I was wondering what brand was popular among those that have replaced it. Seems like at the track lots of people have been breaking them.
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Old 02-12-2018, 06:05 PM
  #8640  
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Originally Posted by denon
Haven't broken a front shock tower, but was going to buy a spare....I was wondering what brand was popular among those that have replaced it. Seems like at the track lots of people have been breaking them.
I bought a spare AE shock tower. I have been running my B6D for over a year now and haven't broken the original shock tower as of yet and believe me I tumble a lot. Go with the AE, I haven't replaced it yet however I did coat the edges with super glue and that may have helped. So my spare sits in my tool box.....
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