649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
|
01-05-2018, 01:47 PM
#8147
Tech Initiate
I'm running stock B6 kit setup so I am already at +3 on the rear hub...?
01-05-2018, 02:10 PM
#8148
Hmm...That means the rear springs are softer at the wheel than the fronts, a big flaw. I haven't measured the B6 yet so I can't say for sure but I measured other AE,TLR and Kyosho buggies and all exhibited that flaw. To test this theory could you try moving the front shocks inwards (middle for a start) on the arm and the rear shocks out on the arm?
01-05-2018, 02:22 PM
#8149
Tech Initiate
Hmm...That means the rear springs are softer at the wheel than the fronts, a big flaw. I haven't measured the B6 yet so I can't say for sure but I measured other AE,TLR and Kyosho buggies and all exhibited that flaw. To test this theory could you try moving the front shocks inwards (middle for a start) on the arm and the rear shocks out on the arm?
Both shocks running 400cst oil. Zero rebound. Front piston stock 2x1.6. Rear piston stock 2x1.7.
01-06-2018, 04:17 PM
#8151
Moving the battery helped, the front shock change didn't. I changed the shocks back and added 1mm of rear ball stud height and that was better. Had my best runs on the layout. Still not where I want it, but moving in the right direction.
01-07-2018, 12:03 PM
#8153
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
B6 17.5 stock class
Can someone help with a list of items recommended to replace / change when running 17.5 stock class?
What are the must do’s?
What are the fast guys doing?
What is not needed / a waste of dollars spent?
Thanks
What are the must do’s?
What are the fast guys doing?
What is not needed / a waste of dollars spent?
Thanks
Last edited by tylem28; 01-07-2018 at 04:42 PM.
01-07-2018, 03:04 PM
#8154
tylem28 - your best money spent is on practice and tires first. 99% of all of the other parts are strickly bling. If I had to tell you one thing to buy, it would be titanium turnbuckles strickly for the weight savings. Other than that, work on running consistent lap times. All of the extra parts in the world can't help with that.
01-07-2018, 06:49 PM
#8156
Obviously shedding weight is important. Getting rid of rotating mass kills two birds with one stone. Slipper eliminator is the cheapest and easiest. I feel it was the best bang for the buck in our 17.5 setup. The 175rc plastic pinions are also nice. I was scared of them at first so I got spares. Still haven't ruined the first one.
01-08-2018, 07:46 AM
#8158
Best bang for the buck spec class tricks:
1. Make sure the gears in the transmission don't have thick oil on them from a leaky diff. Stick to dry/light lubricants or even no lube to reduce the rolling resistance of the drivetrain compared to diff oil. $0
2. Remove the rubber seals from the bearings (or use metal shielded bearings), clean out the grease, and use a light bearing oil to free up the drivetrain. This is free if you have the oil/cleaning supplies and your bearings are still in good condition. $20 if you buy a new set of metal shielded bearings and the oil.
3. Slipper eliminator. Removes mass from the second fastest spinning part in the drivetrain. The energy it takes to spin something faster is a square function, so removing 1 gram from the slipper is worth more than 1 gram from the diff or cvds. $10-15.
4. Plastic pinions. Removes mass from the fastest spinning part of the drivetrain. $15 for a decent assortment of sizes.
5. 16 gauge wire. Stock motors don't pull enough power to warrant 13 or 12 gauge wire. 16 is way lighter and easier to solder to boot. $10.
Do the above and send it. You should be right around 1500 grams if your electronics aren't abnormally heavy.
1. Make sure the gears in the transmission don't have thick oil on them from a leaky diff. Stick to dry/light lubricants or even no lube to reduce the rolling resistance of the drivetrain compared to diff oil. $0
2. Remove the rubber seals from the bearings (or use metal shielded bearings), clean out the grease, and use a light bearing oil to free up the drivetrain. This is free if you have the oil/cleaning supplies and your bearings are still in good condition. $20 if you buy a new set of metal shielded bearings and the oil.
3. Slipper eliminator. Removes mass from the second fastest spinning part in the drivetrain. The energy it takes to spin something faster is a square function, so removing 1 gram from the slipper is worth more than 1 gram from the diff or cvds. $10-15.
4. Plastic pinions. Removes mass from the fastest spinning part of the drivetrain. $15 for a decent assortment of sizes.
5. 16 gauge wire. Stock motors don't pull enough power to warrant 13 or 12 gauge wire. 16 is way lighter and easier to solder to boot. $10.
Do the above and send it. You should be right around 1500 grams if your electronics aren't abnormally heavy.
01-08-2018, 09:35 AM
#8159
I agree with all of Krio's points, but I like running a tiny bit of grease (Associated black grease, applied only to the lay-shaft gear) on the transmission gears. How fast a gearbox free-spins gives no indication of friction under load.
If you remove seals from your bearings, leave one each on the outdrive bearings and the layshaft bearing on the spur gear side, facing the outside of the transmission. It's worth it to keep dust out of those three.
If you remove seals from your bearings, leave one each on the outdrive bearings and the layshaft bearing on the spur gear side, facing the outside of the transmission. It's worth it to keep dust out of those three.
01-08-2018, 10:02 AM
#8160
SO, theoretically, if I did not want to purchase the 25g C mount, couldn't I use small lead or brass weights in the free space right in front of the stock C mount to get the same effect? Or, am I wrong? I only ask because I only will need it maybe 5-6 times a year and do not want to buy a piece that I will seldom use.