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Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Originally Posted by kdub
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 12-05-2017, 04:09 PM
  #7891  
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Originally Posted by FPMX772
I have been playing around with pistons front n rear the past 3 track days and I have landed on the AE 3x1.4 tapered down in the front and the VRP 2x1.6 in the rear. I just ordered a set of the RCSS 3x1.4+1.0 pistons and will be trying those out later this week.
You know VRP have 3x1.4+1.0 pistons too as well as other configurations. Been running these with great success.

Associated, Losi, and Kyosho Pistons
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Old 12-05-2017, 04:55 PM
  #7892  
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Originally Posted by bru00z
You know VRP have 3x1.4+1.0 pistons too as well as other configurations. Been running these with great success.

Associated, Losi, and Kyosho Pistons
Are you guys noticing better landing with this setup?
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Old 12-05-2017, 07:11 PM
  #7893  
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Originally Posted by FPMX772
Are you running the tapered RCSS pistons or flat?
Flat Piston
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Old 12-05-2017, 09:55 PM
  #7894  
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Originally Posted by Kelseyrc
The gullwings make the steering feel less aggressive. For me, I find that when I ran stock I liked the aggressiveness of the flat arms, but in mod, the gullwings made the buggy steer much smoother.
Just a random question based off of what you said. What turn motor do you run in mod? It seems like 6.5 turn is really standard and that is what I got. Or is that way overpowered? I run on two track extremes one is more like a large 8th scale track, and the other is a really tight indoor track.
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Old 12-06-2017, 12:35 AM
  #7895  
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Originally Posted by djgrom
Just a random question based off of what you said. What turn motor do you run in mod? It seems like 6.5 turn is really standard and that is what I got. Or is that way overpowered? I run on two track extremes one is more like a large 8th scale track, and the other is a really tight indoor track.
What ESC? An 8.5 or 10.5 with boost is plenty for most dirt tracks.
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Old 12-06-2017, 05:21 AM
  #7896  
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Just a reminder to everyone but more specifically the newer users: Many of the recent questions I have seen asked are answered (or were) in the Wiki at the top of the thread. Additional information is also in the first 2 or 3 posts of the thread. Last but not least you can search this specific thread for some key words and I am quite sure the answer will pop up more than once.
Thanks

- Non-Managment
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Old 12-06-2017, 06:04 AM
  #7897  
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Ok looking for a good motor fan that the wires don't break easily?
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Old 12-06-2017, 06:37 AM
  #7898  
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Originally Posted by buckeye dan
Ok looking for a good motor fan that the wires don't break easily?
Put a blob of shoe goo on the side of the fan, and bury the wires in it. It really helps
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Old 12-06-2017, 07:15 AM
  #7899  
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Originally Posted by djgrom
Just a random question based off of what you said. What turn motor do you run in mod? It seems like 6.5 turn is really standard and that is what I got. Or is that way overpowered? I run on two track extremes one is more like a large 8th scale track, and the other is a really tight indoor track.
I run a 7.5 motor. I too run on different track sizes and in order to compensate for it I've been running blinky on the tight indoor tracks and running boost and turbo on the larger tracks. For me it works really well.
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Old 12-06-2017, 11:15 AM
  #7900  
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.
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Old 12-06-2017, 03:07 PM
  #7901  
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Originally Posted by Scott R
Put a blob of shoe goo on the side of the fan, and bury the wires in it. It really helps
Ty makes sense I will try that since that is where they always break!
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Old 12-06-2017, 05:54 PM
  #7902  
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Are there any parts that do not come with the kit that a racer should have for a stock 17.5 class?
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Old 12-06-2017, 06:46 PM
  #7903  
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Originally Posted by Johnny.Kolosek
Are there any parts that do not come with the kit that a racer should have for a stock 17.5 class?
I would start with box stock setup and see how it goes at your track. Then after a few races ask a few of the fast guys what they recommend. You can also look at page 1 of this thread for all sorts of info. just remember, bling doesn't make you faster, your driving skills make you faster.
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Old 12-06-2017, 06:49 PM
  #7904  
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Originally Posted by JsK
What ESC? An 8.5 or 10.5 with boost is plenty for most dirt tracks.
It is a hobby wing I think v10 6.5 motor and the X10 pro esc. I would have to double check because for some reason I suck at memorizing my own gear.
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Old 12-07-2017, 02:32 AM
  #7905  
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Got to comparing manuals between the B6D and the club racer which is basically a B6D with less alum. parts and carbon fiber towers replaced with plastic and sold with low end electronics as a entry level buggy. Was trying to figure out gearing the CR comes with a 72/30 where the B6D comes with a 78 tooth spur and no pinion, why the difference? And if you look at the gear charts in both they are the same and call for a 69/31 for a 17.5 I know people vary from these for track conditions and preference but you would think to start out of the box for the in experienced guy they at least would be the same.
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