R/C Tech Forums - Team Associated B6 & B6D thread

I gave up on that longer Exotec servo horn due to its clearance issues and got an Associated brand aluminum unit.

Still dremmeled away some material to increase clearance though.

Still Bill

10-29-2017 07:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fanatic01 (Post 15061788)

I just bought my b6 and basically have it together but I have a few issues and questions.

1) Is it just me or is the bottom motor mount screw hard to get at with a normal hex driver?
2) At full steering the steering linkage hits the top plate on one side. I tried to fiddle with the spacing of the servo to no avail.
3) Does anyone run their sensor wire under the battery and if so is it okay for the wire to be near the motor without it melting?
4) I eyed up my rear turnbuckle when building the kit and it is sitting at 24mm and the camber is still way to positive. The manual calls for 28mm but I'm guessing it will have to be shortened to like 21-22mm. Seems pretty far off. The manual did say to originally install the ball studs on the outer most hole on the mount but later on in the manual showed it in the middle. Axle height is set to stock with +3 axle height. Not a huge biggie but still odd.

Other than that stuff the kit went together great and looking to run it for the first time.

A few months back I watched a YouTube video that revealed all of the conflicts of the assembly instructions in the B6 manual. Wish I had seen this before I had built mine...LOL Look for it because the guy exposed something like a dozen issues with the manual.

With careful placement, you can route a flat sensor wire just in front of the motor to avoid issues. Yes, I have seen sensor wires damaged by motors multiple times.

FPMX772

10-29-2017 09:27 AM

Its time to upgrade from my TLR 3.0 and I'm leaning toward AE. You guys think now is a good time to purchase or wait a couple more months to see if there is a possibility of a new car coming out soon? I haven't heard of any rumors of a new one but just curious what y'all think, thanks!

monkeyracing

10-29-2017 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Still Bill (Post 15064391)

A few months back I watched a YouTube video that revealed all of the conflicts of the assembly instructions in the B6 manual. Wish I had seen this before I had built mine...LOL Look for it because the guy exposed something like a dozen issues wit the manual.

With careful placement, you can route a flat sensor wire just in front of the motor to avoid issues. Yes, I have seen sensor wires damaged by motors multiple times.

Don’t suppose you have a link? This would be interesting to see.

Still Bill

10-29-2017 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by monkeyracing (Post 15064579)

Don’t suppose you have a link? This would be interesting to see.

Title of the YouTube video is "Team Associated RC10 B6 Build Review" by doctotormosfet. But, you have to forgive his ranting about the numbering (and organization) of the bags in the kit before he gets to the problems with the instructions. The bag numbering was only a minor issue to me; whereas, the differences between the build and the setup sheet in the back of the manual caused a lot of do/undo work for me.

Actually, a couple other related videos should come up when you do the search for this video. They are also worth watching.

monkeyracing

10-29-2017 03:20 PM

Thank you! I had no issues with my build. I’m just slowly tweaking the setup as the weeks pass. Lots of good setups out there, but they all have some commonalities.

EDIT: Wow. You weren’t kidding about the whining.

JsK	10-29-2017 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Still Bill (Post 15064387)

I gave up on that longer Exotec servo horn due to its clearance issues and got an Associated brand aluminum unit.

Still dremmeled away some material to increase clearance though.

The link between the horn and rack needs to be parallel or slightly angled back. Everything else with the ball stud and servo spacers flows from that. Never seen
either the AE or Exotek one hit the brace if its installed correctly.

Phat-Boy

10-29-2017 08:59 PM

Alualuminum bulkhead

Broke 2 stock bulkhead in last 3 practice runs (bad driver) thinking of getting aluminum bulkhead what is pro & con on alu bulkhead. It's 10g heavy, so will change handling.

stuffandthat

10-29-2017 11:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by monkeyracing (Post 15064579)

Don’t suppose you have a link? This would be interesting to see.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJfnYcl_Ck4

Link for all interested.

stuffandthat

10-30-2017 02:30 PM

What's the difference between the standard shock bodies that come with the kit and the FT shock bodies with the Kashima coat?
Also, is it worth upgrading to the aluminum shock caps?

Kelseyrc

10-30-2017 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phat-Boy (Post 15064995)

Broke 2 stock bulkhead in last 3 practice runs (bad driver) thinking of getting aluminum bulkhead what is pro & con on alu bulkhead. It's 10g heavy, so will change handling.

To be honest, I switched from the stock bulkhead to the aluminum and did not see much of a difference. The buggy might of had a slight change in handling but it was minimal. I can't think of any cons except for the price, although if you're breaking a lot of plastic bulkheads the break-even would be about 4-5 of them and it sounds like you are about half way there, lol. I use the aluminum for clay/dirt and the brass for carpet and haven't had a problem since.

Krio	10-30-2017 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phat-Boy (Post 15064995)

Broke 2 stock bulkhead in last 3 practice runs (bad driver) thinking of getting aluminum bulkhead what is pro & con on alu bulkhead. It's 10g heavy, so will change handling.

For durability, it is worth it. 10 grams can be overcome.

Quote:

Originally Posted by stuffandthat (Post 15065674)

What's the difference between the standard shock bodies that come with the kit and the FT shock bodies with the Kashima coat?
Also, is it worth upgrading to the aluminum shock caps?

The Kashima coating is harder and smoother than the stock bodies (inside and out). They are worth it if you need to replace the original bodies due to wear and tear AND you are looking for every micro advantage you can find. If you are a mortal like myself who needs the best bang for the buck, the stock bodies are more than adequate.

Personally, I have never broken a plastic shock cap on my 10th scale AE cars in the last 6 years. Also, I'd rather break the shock cap than whatever was next in line to take the hit.

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