Thanks for sharing Mellow. Any questions, let me know. Hope it helps you out!

Ray

getting really fed up with this car.... all camber links are matched from outside dimension to outside dimension. All shock collars are matched also for ride height. and all shock oils have been rebled yet passenger rear camber measurements is greater than the driver side rear camber measurements. i'm reading about -2 degrees on passenger, -.5 on driver side. I am usually always able to get them matched and everythign looks great but somethign seriously doesnt make sense.

Has anyone had this similar problem? to match cambers, one camber link needs to be a mm and half longer than the other side.... thats excessive.. wtf

You are overthinking it. Its an offroad car. It wont be exact.

What are you using to measure with?

Short answer is the car is not settling the same on both sides.

Rays set ups are great. But your right, he runs mod. No need for all that weight in stock.
He's setups are really just a starting point (assuming your using he's set up guide for varies track conditions). He also described how the changes affect the car which is handy.
I'm only in stock as well. I just adjust to suit what suits me.

Invest in a decent setup station. I use hudy.

Camber lengths in the manual is only a guide. Everyone has different electronics tires and bodys. They all affect final weight, therefore the tuning of the suspension geometry.

I bought mine 2 years ago.... well worth the money!!!!

Thats what it appears to be doing.... pills are symmetric. the only thing i can think of is the springs are crap and not equal...

There are way to many variables for a car with 20+mm of suspension travel to ever make
Setup station readings viable. Pretty much a exercise in frustration. Drop it 6 to inches and
Set camber, rotate the wheel 180 and repeat. Keep doing this and split the diffenence until
It reads within the runout of the wheels.

The only time it's difficult is when things like hubs and arms have slop from wear or too many crashes. Then you have a hard time. When that happens, it indicates to me I need to freshen up with new parts or fix something broken.

Check your alloy rear camber mount isn't bent. I have seen that cause different camber left/right. Also, the camber mount keys into the black rear bulkhead piece, but they don't key into the d block or transmission. So if you have a bent screw or elongated hole, the mount will not be sitting perfectly square.

Ray

Are you checking the camber with set up wheels or with tires. Tires are usually out of round

Bump stear is kit setup. Only steering adjustment is 1mm on the steering rack.

Kit setup (A)

Gray isn't necessarily "better" than white, but they're more appropriate for my track IMO. I saw most people using them on similar surfaces (med-high bite indoor clay), so I tried them. They're creating excellent corner-entry steering, and they help get the weight back to the rear on corner-exit. Win/win.

With the setup that I posted, it had the tightest turning radius I've ever put on a car. Gobs of steering. The only thing I didn't like was that the rear end was getting a little unsettled on less-than-perfect landings, and the car would dart around a bit. So I could turn a hero lap, but only once or twice over the course of 10 minutes. I put the rear shock back to the #2 position, and everything is exactly where I want it. It's super easy to drive, has great steering, and the rear end is planted as long as you're not mangling throttle+steering input.

Here's an updated setup. At this point, I don't feel like there's really anything else for me to chase on the car for my home track. It's the easiest 2WD I've driven, it generates stupid corner speed, handles 180's great, and is extremely predictable.

Y'all are trying to find steering while I'm over here trying to scrub some.....This platform has a TON of steering.....Massive hats off to the design team @ AE!!

I think part of the reason is that the base setup (which includes the stand-up tranny) is pretty tame. Compounding the problem is that people take that base setup and then throw a laydown in because it's what everyone else is doing, and they think it will provide instant steering (at least that's what *I* was hoping hehe).

What I found was that if you throw the laydown in without making any other changes, you're still going to have understeer (particularly mid-corner), and you're going to be severely lacking rear bite on corner exit. And this assumes you're running your battery 2F (as far rearward as it will go), which requires running without the waterfall. I'm sure most people aren't doing that, so the battery is being run further forward, creating even more issues given that they're still running the kit setup. I didn't try that personally, but I imagine it would fishtail like an untuned OG B4 on an oil slick.

The B6D is a killer kit, but IMO if you're running indoor clay, the hot ticket is:

- 1.5 degrees antisquat (preferrably with the 25g C block)
- laydown tranny
- rear hubs forward
- front gray springs + 32.5wt

There are some other changes that I made for personal taste, but these four will get you a solid planted car with great steering. I wish I could tell you the 25g is or isn't all that important, but I made the 1.5 a/s change when I installed the 25g C block... sorry :blush: . I also have the alum D block installed, but I'm running it center... so right now it's just $15 bling.

Check your camber in 3 different spots on the wheels as wheels, and perhaps the tire glue job, makes things not so straight :) If the tires aren't new, check to make sure you haven't had a hard landing and gave the ole wheel a whack. I have had some that twisted the axle hole out of square. You could tell by the wheel ribs being twisted/bent.

Other things.. check your ride height at all 4 arms (inside towards the middle of the car). Set your ride height by adjusting the spring collars. Do not worry about the measuring collar distance. No 2 springs are exactly the same.
Are you running the same mounting options on the camber links (position/height)?
What about hub/caster inserts? double check they are the same and inserted the same.
Spring cups?
Is anything bent/cracked? shock towers, shock mount screws, camber mounts, arm mounts..
If you can't find anything else its time to look at the chassis being warped.