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Take a few pictures or a video.
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I am building mine for street stock using 8500mah . I cannot really find any info on how to use velcro hold down for battery. How I have pictured is the best I could figure out. Did drill some holes. Any advice or pics would be great. It should be a ripper. Thanks.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...aaeac61a87.jpg |
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Hey guys I'm looking for these part #'s if anyone has them.
91714 91707 They are the 4 Gear standup motor plate and Gear case. Thanks |
Originally Posted by ShootHere_;[url=tel:15648790
15648790[/url]]Brains trust, question regarding basic build/setup problem I'm having.
Trying to get the front setup but somethings off and for the life of me i can't work it out. Using the kit measurements for the links (all spot on) then trimming to get the toe equal (which says to me the wheels are straight), the camber is way off on one side, ie left is correct (or very close) but the right is over -3 clearly something's not right, but i have no idea where to look and hoping someone might have a clue about where this might be going wrong You could compare your manual to the one that is online and see if they are different. |
Stand Up 3 gear and 4 gear
Hi folks, I have a stand up 3 gear and a stand up 4 gear transmission from the B6 era but I’m not 100% sure if they are meant for a B6D or a B6.1-.4 chassis, am I right, that they are not interchangeable? That is, if they are B6, they will not fit B6.1-.4 chassis? How can I tell or what measurement do I need to be sure? Something to do with the C and or D blocks? I’m putting together all my B6 series stuff I no longer have a use for in a sale and want to list it correctly. Thanks in advance.
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Hello everyone. I'm trying to get back into racing on a budget after being out for over 10 years. Looking to find some used roller first and get back in that way and buy the latest and greatest once I get better at driving.
My question is... Would there be a big difference for me to buy a b6.2 vs a b6.4? Or should I really just focus on finding a good 6.4 and not look at any model before that? Thanks for the help! |
Originally Posted by 5280RCDriver
(Post 16081237)
Hello everyone. I'm trying to get back into racing on a budget after being out for over 10 years. Looking to find some used roller first and get back in that way and buy the latest and greatest once I get better at driving.
My question is... Would there be a big difference for me to buy a b6.2 vs a b6.4? Or should I really just focus on finding a good 6.4 and not look at any model before that? Thanks for the help! But on a budget any of the 6.2, 6.3, 6.4 cars will be great. The 6.4s will transfer over 13mm shocks so if you see yourself getting a B7 in the future then thats something to consider. The B6.0 and B6.1 are both much older and not nearly as good, so avoid those. |
Originally Posted by Alexv2024
(Post 16081244)
I got started a few years ago with VERY out dated used buggies and it was frustraiting trying to get them to work. But that was a TLR 2.0 and the 4.0 was the current one and there were HUGE changes. The b6.2 to b6.3 wasnt a big change but the b6.4 was a fairly big change. I still have my 6.4 and 6.2s and they will be good on modern high grip tracks. But I've moved on and built a B7 and LOVE IT. Its so much easier to drive, makes tons of grip and still has great steering, more than the older cars.
But on a budget any of the 6.2, 6.3, 6.4 cars will be great. The 6.4s will transfer over 13mm shocks so if you see yourself getting a B7 in the future then thats something to consider. The B6.0 and B6.1 are both much older and not nearly as good, so avoid those. |
Originally Posted by Alexv2024
(Post 16081244)
I got started a few years ago with VERY out dated used buggies and it was frustraiting trying to get them to work. But that was a TLR 2.0 and the 4.0 was the current one and there were HUGE changes. The b6.2 to b6.3 wasnt a big change but the b6.4 was a fairly big change. I still have my 6.4 and 6.2s and they will be good on modern high grip tracks. But I've moved on and built a B7 and LOVE IT. Its so much easier to drive, makes tons of grip and still has great steering, more than the older cars.
But on a budget any of the 6.2, 6.3, 6.4 cars will be great. The 6.4s will transfer over 13mm shocks so if you see yourself getting a B7 in the future then thats something to consider. The B6.0 and B6.1 are both much older and not nearly as good, so avoid those. Basically a B6.x is the way to go, don't go for an original B6 as lots of parts are very hard to get now. |
I got a used b6.1 from MHOR rc in Denver a few years ago and I’m still running it. Parts are available locally and on the internet and the car feels great. I’ve had plenty of people drive it that run the latest and greatest and they’ve all said it feels really good. I think finding a good setup and keeping things fresh (shocks, diff, ballcups, etc. . .) are key no matter what platform you’re running. People were winning championships with “old” platforms a few years ago. . . It’s not the car that’s holding me back. B6.x series are all good in my book!
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Originally Posted by Tmarsh34
(Post 16081319)
I got a used b6.1 from MHOR rc in Denver a few years ago and I’m still running it. Parts are available locally and on the internet and the car feels great. I’ve had plenty of people drive it that run the latest and greatest and they’ve all said it feels really good. I think finding a good setup and keeping things fresh (shocks, diff, ballcups, etc. . .) are key no matter what platform you’re running. People were winning championships with “old” platforms a few years ago. . . It’s not the car that’s holding me back. B6.x series are all good in my book!
My son and I will be going to MHOR as well, so maybe we'll see you around! |
Originally Posted by RogerM
(Post 16081290)
Whilst I agree with the majority of what you have said here I would like to say that in lower grip conditions the B6.1 is by far the best of the B6 platforms, that is why so many AE drivers in the UK use either a B6.1 or mat least most of the B6.1 rear end on their wet weather cars.
Basically a B6.x is the way to go, don't go for an original B6 as lots of parts are very hard to get now. But any b6.1 but especially .2+ parts are super easy to get they were made for years and all very similar. Same exact gearbox, towers all interchangeable and all that. |
hi all,
what are the parts to purchase, if i want to convert to 3-gear standup gearbox ? |
Originally Posted by foosoomin
(Post 16087327)
hi all,
what are the parts to purchase, if i want to convert to 3-gear standup gearbox ? The other option maybe to fit the layback which is just gearbox case and idler gear, then move the wishbones forward using the dremel. |
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