Servo horns are included. Will need wheels & tires, servo, esc, motor. My suggestion is try it stock first. It's good out of the box. For clay, brass c block is popular. Also, aluminum or brass D blocks. Sway bars for carpet, maybe aluminum rear hubs. But none of these are 'need to have' upgrades, just things to look into after you've run it a couple of times.

I beilieve the only way to run the 67mm bones is with alum hubs and the offset bearing
adapters. I think AE and Schelle both have an offset hub in the works but there not
avalible yet. I would call Schelle and get there opinion.

You do need the bmi inserts to run the 67mm bones. Like stated above, ae and schelle are working on offset hubs. Depending on your patience level I would either wait for the new hubs or contact bmi racing on fb for the inserts. They aren't expensive.

Thanks! I will be taking out all of my electronics out of my B5M. I have the schelle aluminum rear hubs but it appears these won't work the b6 only the b6d as you cant make adjustments height adjustments. (Do I really need the height adjustments?)

What sway bars do you recommend? front and rear?

Wheels are fit the same as B5M right? (using AE 2.2 wheels and also Concepts Mono Wheels)

another quick question. Does the B6 use Gullwing or Flat arms? On AE site it says gullwing but on Tower Hobbies and Amain it says the gullwing are for B6D? Wanting to buy an extra set of front / rear for B6. Also I read early on the carbon fiber shock tower (rear I beleive) was prone to breaking. What is everyone using to fix this issue?

Here's my dilemma: Last weekend's racing, I kept popping the cva bones out of the diff outdrives. Literally every round. I had added the aluminum D block, but not the associated CVA shims. So the bones are at the very edge of the drive slots. I know adding the shims will help, but I think 2mm longer bones would make it better? Here's a picture:
http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...pst2zynrcj.jpg

Im running the b5m aluminum hubs on my b6 with no issues. I was running the 0deg insert anyway so no change

Okay perfect! Thanks Saves me $50-60 on rear hubs!

What pill settings are you running in the C and D block? Never seen anyone have a bone pop
out unless they where running the car really wide in the back, thats basicly what I assumed
AE CVD spacers where for.

B6 has gull wings. B6D has flat arms. I lightly sanded and put CVA glue on the edges of my towers. No issues for me so far. I did break a rear tower, but I hit the edge of a wooden ramp with it so I don't blame the part for my bad driving.

C is up and out, D is middle out
Basically copied Cav's Eos settings but went back to stock front springs. I'm open to suggestions.

Pretty much what I thought you had going on. The Axle shims should fix this and I think there
listed on the setup sheet. You could try the 67mm bones without shimming the axel. I am not
sure if you will have plunge issues or not. If you return the D to center be mindful of the longer
bones. The bones pop out under compresion not extension so you can run an Oring on the
shaft to limit compresion to help also.

Unfortanetly your running the car wider than most so you have to do some testing.

I tried putting spacers on the shaft to limit the up stroke. I'm not married to the EOS setup. I've come to realize that just because a pro can make it work doesn't necessarily mean it's good for me. So what is a more normal setup on the C & D pills? This is strictly a carpet car. I am more than willing to put the longer bones on a shelf and fix my set up.

Pin tires or slicks?