I will update with a setup sheet. I will say I have bar code blue tires and ride hieght is set to stock. When I first set up the car I used. Aguage to set it.

My diff is smooth and if have it just tight enough that when I hold a wheel and the spur I can't turn the other wheel. My slipper is tightened just enough to lift the front a few inches off the ground.

Lay down tranny and the shocks are mounted on the rear. Battery is in forward position.

Dave, what tires are you on at TS? I know it's "JC country" and that's what a lot of guys run there. But PL Electrons are a more aggressive front tire than any of the current JC offerings. If your willing and haven't already tried them. my $.02

I only know one guy running stand up 3 gear and I haven't driven his car so getting his set up for you won't likely help much since I can't compare it to what I run. (aka: I don't know if it turns well or not)

i race my b6d on loose dirt so im rockin' AKA rebars since we are in tire talk.

I run the brass front bulkhead, hard arms, and sway bars.

I felt I got more steering with the brass front bulkhead versus when I was just using the plastic one.

The hard arms gave the vehicle a more direct feel but to be honest I don't think for my driving its making much of a difference in comparison to what I saw with the brass bulkhead on lap times.

I really like the sway bars better than without (example: stock B6 setup). Car cornered better however some of the setups I felt were too stiff in the shocks for our conditions.

Going with lighter oil combined with the yokomo yatabe springs really woke up the buggy.

"tire talk"..I'm addressing a guy who races at a track that I've been too several times. Which is off road, thus the reason we're in the "Electric OFF ROAD forum" discussing handling and set up issues with the B6..

How do ANY of your posts even remotely relate to anything in this thread, other than vehicle type, when you race on a dirt oval with a late model body? You can't even compare your gearing with what 99% of the people in here run simply based on application.

I don't know what your issue is but I suggest you hang out in this forum and find people to chit chat about your oval stuff with..That means leave the TLR guys alone in their threads as well..

Oval, Larger Scales and More - R/C Tech Forums

I was nice the last time I replied to you and I'm being nice now. But you're getting really close to seeing the "uncensored" version of racer1812

Yep, lots of JC being run there, but anything clay compound works. I've tried a few combinations (AKA, Losi, JC) and they're all about the same with this car so far, but I don't have any PL's so maybe that's worth a go.

There's a kid who also runs a standup B6 and he's really fast (TQ'd stock when all the good guys were there). Our setups look really similar but he drives with his brakes a lot. My 22 3.0 had plenty of steering and the B5's did too. Not sure what to do here.

Things I've changed from stock, in case anybody has some ideas:
+1 steering arms
1mm ackerman spacer (stock is 2mm)
+1mm caster hat bushings (stock is 0mm)
Front shock in middle of arm w/2mm limiter (stock is outer, no limiters)
2* anti-squat (stock is 1*)
30f/27.5r shock oil (stock is 30/30, common is 32.5/30)
Battery in the middle, moved forward didn't seem to change much.

Tonight I think I'll take out 1mm of ball stud height in the rear to try to get it to come around more, and maybe go back to heavier 32.5/30, that change was to try for more fore/aft weight transfer. May also try the heaiver front spring, though I'm not optimistic for that without the lay-down, which I won't try until I'm confident in the setup I have.

This car is about the least sensitive to adjustment of anything I've ever run so I'm not afraid to mess around with it between runs. Got that going for me, I guess..

I removed a ballstud, as well, and went with the gray front springs, too... both helped put steering into the car, FWIW.

@Dave, I think this is one case where suggesting a different tire, like I did, may not be a good idea. You're obviously on a tire that works at TS. Yes tires matter but the tires you're on are known to work. I would keep tuning the car to work with what you're running.

I was kidding around mr. moderator. I guess since I'm a dirt oval racer and not offroad anymore maybe I should check out dirtoval.com instead.

... and here we go :lol:

The only thing we're doing is talking about B6's hitting some jumps.

Have you tried the bulkhead shims?

I haven't. I lowered rear ball stud, went to the silver front spring and 32f/30r oil and I'm really close now. Super easy to drive, just 5% "safer" than it needs to be. 2nd qualifier coming up. I'm 8th out of 25 (that's with a 27sec lap on an 18sec/lap track), which is better than I've been lately.

I have never really messed too much with adding weight to a buggy. I was thinking I would get the esc and servo steel pieces so if I do decide
To add weight that it is more to the front but what would be the most weight I would want to add to this buggy? What is the avg weight the b6 comes in at rtr? And what is the min legal weight? My track doesn't enforce that type of stuff but just wondering

My B6/D has always liked being a little bit over. 1499 is minimum and you don't really have to try that hard to reach near that number. My laydown running at ocrc liked being in the 1530-1550 range, outdoors on a medium bite track my car with the 3 gear standup liked in the 1600g range...just made it easier to drive when it was loose.