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-   -   Team Associated B6 & B6D thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/941483-team-associated-b6-b6d-thread.html)

bmag5000 03-22-2017 09:40 AM

Make sure your ball diff isn't too loose or too tight.
A loose diff is a sign that you melted your diff gear.
I don't know what a tight diff would do but I wouldn't try that either, that's how you wear the crap outa your diff plates.
I check mine often I don't want it too loose or too tight in the middle.

tekin112000 03-22-2017 09:50 AM

How do you measure front toe?

Buy expensive set up gauges specifically for off road car, eyeball it and not worry, two paint stir sticks against the front wheels?

Any suggestions?

Wildcat1971 03-22-2017 09:55 AM


Originally Posted by tekin112000 (Post 14877555)
How do you measure front toe?

Buy expensive set up gauges specifically for off road car, eyeball it and not worry, two paint stir sticks against the front wheels?

Any suggestions?

most eye ball it. some use lines on a board. I plan to get a setup station. Because I like to nerd out :)

Krio 03-22-2017 09:57 AM

Park the nose of your car against a wall and use the camber gauge to measure the toe by placing the gauge on the wall instead of the ground. Turn the car on so the wheels stay in the same place while you measure.

racer1812 03-22-2017 10:03 AM


Originally Posted by Krio (Post 14877563)
Park the nose of your car against a wall and use the camber gauge to measure the toe by placing the gauge on the wall instead of the ground. Turn the car on so the wheels stay in the same place while you measure.

I would do it but I'm lazy.....Somebody needs to post a pic of this so people get it...

Maxxingout 03-22-2017 10:04 AM


How do you measure front toe?
This is how I do it after I get my camber where I want it and toe links are to spec.

Find a flat backboard spot to work off of. A work bench, a wall anything.
-Get your ride height gauge set to where the car will be set and lock it in.
-Adjust your camber gauge to the angle you want your toe.
-Turn the car on and line up the front tires so that both fronts are touching the backboard at the same time.
-Put the ride height gauge under the front and push the car down with 1 hand till it touches the gauge.
-with the other hand, put the camber gauge up against the backboard and slide it over till you touch the tire/rim.
-adjust the links till you have the toe you're looking for.

Allen Drebi 03-22-2017 12:11 PM


Originally Posted by Maxxingout (Post 14877572)
This is how I do it after I get my camber where I want it and toe links are to spec.

Find a flat backboard spot to work off of. A work bench, a wall anything.
-Get your ride height gauge set to where the car will be set and lock it in.
-Adjust your camber gauge to the angle you want your toe.
-Turn the car on and line up the front tires so that both fronts are touching the backboard at the same time.
-Put the ride height gauge under the front and push the car down with 1 hand till it touches the gauge.
-with the other hand, put the camber gauge up against the backboard and slide it over till you touch the tire/rim.
-adjust the links till you have the toe you're looking for.

Get one of these and be done with it!!
https://www.amainhobbies.com/rpm-toe...pm70492/p38145

vabroom 03-22-2017 12:29 PM


Originally Posted by Allen Drebi (Post 14877697)
Get one of these and be done with it!!
https://www.amainhobbies.com/rpm-toe...pm70492/p38145

That's blast from the past. It's an okay tool and definitely you don't have to bring all your setup tools to the track.

Slapjack 03-22-2017 08:02 PM


Originally Posted by BuddyLee303 (Post 14876027)
Droop is adjusted by adjusting the shock shaft length. This is accomplished by either unscrewing or screwing the shock eyelet at the bottom of the shock making the shaft effectively longer or shorter. You can remove droop by installing spacers under the piston inside of the shock. You can also change shock shaft length by changing between long, medium or short shock eyelets. To increase droop you have to make the shock shaft effectively longer. To decrease droop you have effectively make the shaft length shorter. Some 4wd vehicles have droop screws that allow you to easily change droop settings by adjusting the droop screw. Look into your manual for this adjustment that is found mostly on 1/8th scale vehicles. You change the spring cups at the bottom of the shock to be able to attain the desired ride height you are looking to achieve for a given shock shaft length. It does not affect droop to change out spring cups.

Can you explain what you meant by the spring cups for ride height. I realize the collars can be adjusted but you also mentioned the spring cups. I saw some different sizes and didn't understand how they worked.
On another topic... I haven't actually received my kit yet and this is my first associated kit. I've always run X-ray. But I've heard some not great things about the quality of some of the shock parts.So I was going to upgrade to machined delrin Pistons, Delrin shock guides/spacers and new orings and bushings. Are these the part numbers that would be best?
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...c91494/p507396
https://www.amainhobbies.com/avid-rc...1070-b/p581245
https://www.amainhobbies.com/avid-rc...-1.6-f/p252859
https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...c91493/p275243

Matt Trimmings 03-22-2017 08:11 PM


Originally Posted by Slapjack (Post 14878084)
Can you explain what you meant by the spring cups for ride height. I realize the collars can be adjusted but you also mentioned the spring cups. I saw some different sizes and didn't understand how they worked.
On another topic... I also saw someone mention swapping the Stock rear hub for one that has the ballstud screwed into the top. I'm new to associated but I haven't seen a hub like that. Anyone have a Part no. For that style hub?

The different shock cups are there to better achieve proper ride height on various surfaces. They are not a tuning tool. As for the hubs, currently Schelle is the only company that offers a hub for the B6 that alloes you to take advantage of the vertical height adjustment of the stock hubs.

Black: B6 Aluminum Rear Hubs, Black

Blue: B6 Aluminum Rear Hubs, Blue

You can get the Schelle machined pistons as well. They are available in numerous sizes.

daedalus 03-22-2017 10:01 PM

I have flat front arms with a 5mm shock spring cups up front but they contact the arm through some of the suspension travel so they kind of get pushed off the bottom of the eyelet and upwards rather than staying seated at the bottom of the shock.

Anyone have similar problem?

Would a 7mm front spring cup add clearance?

Slapjack 03-23-2017 05:02 AM


Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings (Post 14878091)
The different shock cups are there to better achieve proper ride height on various surfaces. They are not a tuning tool. As for the hubs, currently Schelle is the only company that offers a hub for the B6 that alloes you to take advantage of the vertical height adjustment of the stock hubs.

Black: B6 Aluminum Rear Hubs, Black

Blue: B6 Aluminum Rear Hubs, Blue

You can get the Schelle machined pistons as well. They are available in numerous sizes.

So the shorter the spring cups the lower ride height you can get? Is that correct?

Orion_2kTC 03-23-2017 05:41 AM

I tore apart the transmission and opened it up. No binding of individual parts, no melted gears, diff isn't too tight, as a matter of fact I can probably tighten it 1/8th turn more. I determined that it's the new Schelle bearings that just need to be worked in a bit. I was able to spin each part separately without issues. So false alarm.


Originally Posted by bmag5000 (Post 14877544)
Make sure your ball diff isn't too loose or too tight.
A loose diff is a sign that you melted your diff gear.
I don't know what a tight diff would do but I wouldn't try that either, that's how you wear the crap outa your diff plates.
I check mine often I don't want it too loose or too tight in the middle.


Orion_2kTC 03-23-2017 05:42 AM

.

caioz1jp 03-23-2017 04:51 PM

Hey all, I am having trouble with understeering in the corners. I am using a savox 1290mg which I suspect the low torque may be the problem but I was wonder what else I can do to gain more steering?

Everything is stock on the front end except I have no spacers on the steering rack ball studs. I also appear to have a slight toe out on the front end.

Thanks in advance.


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